With the POR 15 make sure you use the whole system, marine clean, etch ect.
And it will require a top coat, or it will fade purple.
And it will require a top coat, or it will fade purple.
Project 78
- Thread starter dukeboy440
- Start date
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Soooo due to power tour and my w200 maybe getting 6-7 mpg in that traffic, I’ve been trying to engineer a 2nd tank into my w200.
So factory, I have the 18 gallon(rated) gas tank on the drivers side. HOWEVER, some models got passenger side 18 gallon tanks and later ones got 27 gallon ones mounted at the rear behind the axle. As such, the frame is set up with all the holes and brackets to simply add the tanks and straps.
My replacement bed I got from California has the filler on the passenger side.
I have a second 18 gallon tank and straps I pulled from a junkyard years ago when the yard wanted the same price for the tank as they did the sending unit I needed.
I also have a 27 gallon tank but no straps.
I’m trying to decide, do I had the 18 gallon tank or the 27? If I had the 18 to the passenger side, I will need to route the exhaust to avoid being anywhere near the plastic gas tank. Probably on the outside of the frame and have to fashion some sort of heat shield. That said, the 27 gives more range, I can route the exhaust, in the factory locations (even though it’s a true dual aftermarket) but I’d then have no spare tire mount, plus I’d have to figure out the fuel filler routing as my bed isn’t set up for that and has a cross member that hits where the 27 gal sending unit is. Beds from that era had the member moved.
But while I decide that, I’m trying to figure out how to actually use the 2 tanks. I know but Chevy and ford used dual tank valves that were notorious for failing and what I’ve read, the new Chinese replacement ones are even worst. I thought about just rigging an electric fuel pump from the supply line to the return line on the other tank but then do I run the return from the engine to the second tank? Or is there a check valve or something I cya put in the line and connect to the primary tank? I’ve also thought about drilling into the filler tank and routing the secondary to fill the primary in that manner. I’m sure I just confused the hell out of everyone but thoughts?
So factory, I have the 18 gallon(rated) gas tank on the drivers side. HOWEVER, some models got passenger side 18 gallon tanks and later ones got 27 gallon ones mounted at the rear behind the axle. As such, the frame is set up with all the holes and brackets to simply add the tanks and straps.
My replacement bed I got from California has the filler on the passenger side.
I have a second 18 gallon tank and straps I pulled from a junkyard years ago when the yard wanted the same price for the tank as they did the sending unit I needed.
I also have a 27 gallon tank but no straps.
I’m trying to decide, do I had the 18 gallon tank or the 27? If I had the 18 to the passenger side, I will need to route the exhaust to avoid being anywhere near the plastic gas tank. Probably on the outside of the frame and have to fashion some sort of heat shield. That said, the 27 gives more range, I can route the exhaust, in the factory locations (even though it’s a true dual aftermarket) but I’d then have no spare tire mount, plus I’d have to figure out the fuel filler routing as my bed isn’t set up for that and has a cross member that hits where the 27 gal sending unit is. Beds from that era had the member moved.
But while I decide that, I’m trying to figure out how to actually use the 2 tanks. I know but Chevy and ford used dual tank valves that were notorious for failing and what I’ve read, the new Chinese replacement ones are even worst. I thought about just rigging an electric fuel pump from the supply line to the return line on the other tank but then do I run the return from the engine to the second tank? Or is there a check valve or something I cya put in the line and connect to the primary tank? I’ve also thought about drilling into the filler tank and routing the secondary to fill the primary in that manner. I’m sure I just confused the hell out of everyone but thoughts?
91 days to meet the goal… am I crazy
My youngest decided to help with my son decided it was too windy to work on the truck lol
Even if we don’t get finished by power tour it’s been a blast with these two “helping”.
Frame gets painted tomorrow!
Frame gets painted tomorrow!
Keep them busy!!!!!
Ever put 99 dodge rims on a w200? I’ve got a brand new set of tires on my 99. Thinking of running them on my 78 just for power tour. Dont really care about the looks hava
Try them,
When I bought the axles for mine, they were out of a 90 w250, and it had the newer generation wheels on them.
When I bought the axles for mine, they were out of a 90 w250, and it had the newer generation wheels on them.
It’s rust treatment and paint time!
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Nice booth setup!
Crude but effective. Temp was steady at 72 with just the lights. It was 59 outside.
I have a hobby air 2 breathing system. Just run the hose under the plastic with the intake outside the building. Otherwise, I wouldn’t recommend trying this. It held the fumes really well
The before
Dug out the truck bed.
I got this delivered from So Cal to Mopar Nats in 2011 for 300 bucks. Rust free, bed floor, wheel wells, bed top rails and sides all dent free. Only one dent where I dented it moving it years ago but it’s on the under side and fixable. Some light surface rust on the thing This thing is SOLID! Tell me the last time you saw a 50 year old all original 8 ft truck bed in this good shape
I got this delivered from So Cal to Mopar Nats in 2011 for 300 bucks. Rust free, bed floor, wheel wells, bed top rails and sides all dent free. Only one dent where I dented it moving it years ago but it’s on the under side and fixable. Some light surface rust on the thing This thing is SOLID! Tell me the last time you saw a 50 year old all original 8 ft truck bed in this good shape
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Looking good!
Thanks. Gonna por15 the underside of the bed tomorrow and then hopefully it can get put on in the coming weeks. Decided against painting the underside of it body color.
I would not POR 15 the undeside.
It is made to stick to rust, it will end up just peeling off the bare metal.
It is made to stick to rust, it will end up just peeling off the bare metal.
Dodge put their second tank in the very rear, like a Ramcharger.
I got the etcher with it too. Supposed to help
Chassis saver, or better yet prime and paint body color.
I’ll look into it
Thanks
While prepping the bed for por15, which I’ll be painting over body color btw, I found one of the bed mounting points, the nut had been torn a bit , so fixed that(btw rust free and thicker sheet metal than my dad and it welded so much nicer)
Oh and por15 has changed their instructions, I have two kits, one from last year and one from this week. The kit I just got says to wash with water AFTER using both the cleaner and the metal prep. The older kit does not say to do that. So I followed the new kit instructions. We shall see what happens I suppose
Oh and por15 has changed their instructions, I have two kits, one from last year and one from this week. The kit I just got says to wash with water AFTER using both the cleaner and the metal prep. The older kit does not say to do that. So I followed the new kit instructions. We shall see what happens I suppose
Well for those wondering, one quart will do one coat on an 8 ft truck bed, including the insides of the bed and wheel wells. I do have a couple spots to touch up that i noticed after I took my break so I’ll get those when I turn it upside later but you get the jest
Took some time to pull the drums that have been frozen for years off. I’m hoping they can be turned and saved. But not holding my breath
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