If you are taking that oil light switch out to replace it with a new one, then just use a pipe wrench - you will destroy the metal can on the switch, but if you put a new one in that does not leak everywhere you don't need to save the old one anyway.
Slant Six Oil light coming on — need a new pump?
- Thread starter ScampNYC
- Start date
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Is there even room for a pipe wrench?
prolly a small one on the top and bottom, Not a lot of wrench handle swingin' space, Just enough to get it unfrozen from the pipe threads. Once you get it started you can use a 15/16 o1 1" socket to get it the rest of the way off.
Now if this slant were in a C body or a B/D series van or truck thats' a whole 'nother level of working space.
Now if this slant were in a C body or a B/D series van or truck thats' a whole 'nother level of working space.
You ain't kiddin!
ScampNYC
Member
Shoot, I hope i didn't already bugger it up with by 12pt socket attempts. Don't think I'll be able to get vice grips or channel locks on it.
I think its about a 1" size. A 1" 12pt socket was just a bit too big.
I think its about a 1" size. A 1" 12pt socket was just a bit too big.
ScampNYC
Member
So what's the consensus on that mysterious spring in the filter nipple? Leave it be or pluck it out?
It was part of the stand pipe. I believe. The check valve that "tries to keep oil from running out of the filter. They never really worked that well that I saw. Plus, most modern filters have anti drain back valves. I run Motorcraft oil filters, because they are very high quality and made in USA. FL1A fits the slant 6.
ScampNYC
Member
so pull and toss the spring?
I would. Yes.
Thanks. I couldn't remember what size it was and I'm too danged lazy to walk out to the shop to see. That's bad, ain't it?
I have an old S-K #4488 socket that's stepped to fit both 1" and 1-1/16." I know it fit the sending unit on my 383 Road Runner.
circlepilot
Well-Known Member
Clogged oil pickup screen (tube).
slantsixdan
=..=
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
If it doesn’t tick, I would just run it, you run into more issues trying to add a gauge then just leaving it alone. Lol
ScampNYC
Member
Thanks Dan!
Pull pan plug, use bore scope to see inside
RGAZ
Diehard
Or pull dipstick tube out and use bore scope from top.
I would NOT suggest engine flush, I once wiped main bearings with them
I wouldn't recommend it either. If it's sludged up like mine was, it's like a thick almost sponge in the bottom of the pan. Flushes will never get it out and it may loosen up just enough to really cause problems.
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If it's badly sludged, and you want to keep the engine, pull the pan and valve cover and clean as much out as possible by hand. After that, maybe use one of those oils that are supposed to clean out dirty engines. Valvoline makes one.
Several times when I was an oil sales rep, I had to handle claims in which a badly sludged engine had solvent introduced into the oil. This loosened up enough sludge to block the pickup. If that happens, it's all done.
Charlie71
Member
About those sending units... if you or anyone else wants to replace them instead of getting a mechanical gauge, keep this in mind... the replacements they sell down at the local parts stores are not so great. About 3 years ago, I had to replace the one in my 77 F150. It was leaking. Pulled it out, and it was the original FoMoCo oil sender. Been in the 4 decades. Went to Oreilly's, got a replacement, put it in, and all was good in the universe again. Until.... a year later I am driving home from Houston and the oil light starts to flicker while going down the highway. Seeing an oil light at 70 mph will certainly make your sphincter tighten up! I didn't have anywhere safe to stop and continued about another mile looking for a good place to pull over and then it came on solid and wouldn't go off. Now I am starting to sweat as I finally get off on an exit. The engine never made any funny noises or ran poorly. Checked the oil and the level was right where it should be. Being it was another 60 miles before I would get home, I called a tow and had it brought home. A 350 dollar tow was certainly cheaper than a few grand for an engine.
The next morning as I'm out there poking around, I consider the oil sender and then decide out of all the possibilities, this one would be the least expensive... and off to the store I go. Come home, put a new sender in it, started the truck, and the light went out as soon as the engine came on! I was really relieved... until...
A year or so later, I thought I saw the oil light come one for just a moment. It was a bright day, so maybe it was just my imagination. Later that night, it came on for a moment and went off. Now it's dark and I know this wasn't my imagination! Checked the oil and it was fine. The next day, the light took an unusually long time to extinguish after starting the engine. I thought, "Really? Another sending unit? Can't be!" Well, it could, and it was! THANK YOU CHINA!! I got the Ford number for a Ford sender and went to my local dealership. The guy said they didn't make it anymore, but there was one sitting on a shelf in the next county and he would have it the next day.... and he did. It was 70 dollars. I put it in and haven't had any issues since then.
I've found more often than not, I am deeply disappointed with parts I buy from the parts houses. Orielly's, Advance, Auto Zone... it doesn't matter which company. So now, for my truck and my old Charger, I try to find original FoMoCo or Mopar parts on ebay or other places on the internet. Depending on the part you're looking for, it might be wise to seek out an original factory piece.
A mechanical gauge is always best. In my Duster, I found a brass tee that I was about to mount both the original idiot light sender AND a fitting for a mechanical gauge.
As far as getting the old one out, using the penetrating oil it likely your best bet... and get that special socket someone showed earlier. I have one... made life really easy for me on the truck... especially considering how many times I had to do that job!
The next morning as I'm out there poking around, I consider the oil sender and then decide out of all the possibilities, this one would be the least expensive... and off to the store I go. Come home, put a new sender in it, started the truck, and the light went out as soon as the engine came on! I was really relieved... until...
A year or so later, I thought I saw the oil light come one for just a moment. It was a bright day, so maybe it was just my imagination. Later that night, it came on for a moment and went off. Now it's dark and I know this wasn't my imagination! Checked the oil and it was fine. The next day, the light took an unusually long time to extinguish after starting the engine. I thought, "Really? Another sending unit? Can't be!" Well, it could, and it was! THANK YOU CHINA!! I got the Ford number for a Ford sender and went to my local dealership. The guy said they didn't make it anymore, but there was one sitting on a shelf in the next county and he would have it the next day.... and he did. It was 70 dollars. I put it in and haven't had any issues since then.
I've found more often than not, I am deeply disappointed with parts I buy from the parts houses. Orielly's, Advance, Auto Zone... it doesn't matter which company. So now, for my truck and my old Charger, I try to find original FoMoCo or Mopar parts on ebay or other places on the internet. Depending on the part you're looking for, it might be wise to seek out an original factory piece.
A mechanical gauge is always best. In my Duster, I found a brass tee that I was about to mount both the original idiot light sender AND a fitting for a mechanical gauge.
As far as getting the old one out, using the penetrating oil it likely your best bet... and get that special socket someone showed earlier. I have one... made life really easy for me on the truck... especially considering how many times I had to do that job!
Id rather have the original sending unit AND an aftermarket sunpro/Stewart warner type gauge. A simple tee will allow you to have both. And yes new aftermarket parts are absolutely crap
As far as penetrating oil on the sending unit to get it out ive never had one break off. Ever. And I've changed many. That specialty socket does make the difference though.
As far as penetrating oil on the sending unit to get it out ive never had one break off. Ever. And I've changed many. That specialty socket does make the difference though.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
Slants have a check valve in the filter housing to prevent oil from draining to the sump when shut off.
I would remove the oil pan to inspect the main and rod bearings. To plastigage the mains, remove #1 and #3 caps and put a 1" piece of cereal box on the cap and just snug up to hold the crank up. Now you can plastigage #2 and #4 mains. Then switch the cardboard to check the others. Not needed for checking the rod bearings. Of course if you see copper you need new bearings. You can carefully roll the old bearings out and new ones in. Installing new ones, be very careful not to shave a bit of the bearing backing on the sharp edge of the bore.
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