Slant Six Oil light coming on — need a new pump?

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Oh— thanks for bearing with me. What I meant by that was I'm convinced to pull the pan and clean it and the pickup. And that I would go ahead and order an oil pump also, since I would be down there anyway. Sorry, I thought that was clear, but I should have been more specific in my writing. I guess I should just leave the oil pump alone? I had no idea the new oil pumps were problematic.

About my seeming boneheadedness:
Look, I don't mind pulling an oil pan, but I was reading on SlantsSix.org that Dan describes a "soup" he made, and recommends running it through a 2+ times. I did a less aggressive "soup" and ran it through only once, with limited results. Basically, I didn't do what Dan described and I still wanted to try this route. Since I didn't do the full battery of "soup treatments" (see this thread) I figured I'd actually do it exactly how Dan recommended to do it before I gave up on his idea.

But I guess something about my particular situation leads us to believe the soup would be ineffective, a waste of time, and potentially hazardous.

I'm not trying to be difficult, and I really appreciate all the help, I just have 2 conflicting sets of advice (this thread and older threads on SlantSix.org) and I'm trying to figure out the best route. Right now it sounds like I shouldn't do the soup and should just pull the pan. And leave the oil pump be.

Thanks again, and I am so sorry I ever even tried the stupid "soup"!! Now to find the time to pull the pan! Very hard when you have a 1 year old kid and a wife who works Saturdays, haha.
 
I haven't seen the thread on the /6 site in a few days but many (most?) that are here in this section of this forum are also over there
 
Funny (to me) story. I bought a slant form a Mopar bud once to drop in a 63 Dart roller a few or so years ago. Cheap! Mostly wore out! But cheap!! It came out of an A body that the owner used to deliver RFD mail for years. Stop and go driving! To get it to run I had to pour oil down its "throat" to get some compression and get things "lubed". Well after (and a carb rebuild) that it actually ran pretty good and did not really smoke (too bad).

I flushed the block and all with a "muratic acid solution" and then neutralize all that. Disclaimer: Don't try this at home with YOUR car.

Before I dropped it in, I pulled the pan and it had probably an inch of sludge that looked like Mississippi mud. NO doubt it never had oil changes and when it did, must have been a cheap(est) parafin based oil. That got "shoveled" out! Ran some Sea Foam thru it a time or three. Oil pressure was "somewhat" low by the gauge but never seems to hurt it any. Slants are amazing!
 
ScampNYC said:
Oh— thanks for bearing with me. What I meant by that was I'm convinced to pull the pan and clean it and the pickup. And that I would go ahead and order an oil pump also, since I would be down there anyway. Sorry, I thought that was clear, but I should have been more specific in my writing. I guess I should just leave the oil pump alone? I had no idea the new oil pumps were problematic.

About my seeming boneheadedness:
Look, I don't mind pulling an oil pan, but I was reading on SlantsSix.org that Dan describes a "soup" he made, and recommends running it through a 2+ times. I did a less aggressive "soup" and ran it through only once, with limited results. Basically, I didn't do what Dan described and I still wanted to try this route. Since I didn't do the full battery of "soup treatments" (see this thread) I figured I'd actually do it exactly how Dan recommended to do it before I gave up on his idea.

But I guess something about my particular situation leads us to believe the soup would be ineffective, a waste of time, and potentially hazardous.

I'm not trying to be difficult, and I really appreciate all the help, I just have 2 conflicting sets of advice (this thread and older threads on SlantSix.org) and I'm trying to figure out the best route. Right now it sounds like I shouldn't do the soup and should just pull the pan. And leave the oil pump be.

Thanks again, and I am so sorry I ever even tried the stupid "soup"!! Now to find the time to pull the pan! Very hard when you have a 1 year old kid and a wife who works Saturdays, haha.
Click to expand...
I have yet in reading through this thread, unless it's included in the link SSD posted, that the pressure relief valves are notorious for sticking in these things when aged. The valve is serviceable in the car w/o removing the pump, lets try that 1st, not that pulling the pan for a thorough cleaning of it & the pickup is a bad idea.....but to do that & find out it still isn't fixed would suck only to end up being the pressure relief valve..which would still be better to clean & fix than buying a new pump.
 
In these old cars that have sat for how many years, decades?? there are a lot of things that need to be addressed.

Like I have said, until most all parts have been rebuilt, replaced with good, there are always parts and pieces ready to fail!! And you will not know till they go bad! or you replace parts that after 60 years need replacing with GOOD parts. Junk cheap new China parts does not necessarily always mean good!

My list is long.
I wonder how many times a bad distributor has been the issue for me?
Bad connection at firewall, and just OLD bad wiring and connections?
Dead bug in the long metal fuel line?
Bad alternator?
VR?
Bad grounds?
Bad fuel pickup. sender?
Carb??????
Brakes. Replace it ALL!
Rear end and gears. Check it out?
Transmission? At least check the fluid and filter?
Runs hot?? Never seen one I could not fix.
etc etc etc... the list is long.
 
Flushing is fine for a light cleanup, or if something got into the crankcase that shouldn't be there. Not wise with signs of heavy dirt; you risk lunching the engine by loosening up enough dirt to clog the oil filter, open its bypass valve, and send destructive dirt right to the bearings.
 
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