No Headlights 2.0

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soonercruiser

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Have had no electrical problems for a year now with the 67 Barrcuda.
When I had the dash apart to replace the dash bezels , I did attempt to put in a new headlight switch.
**But, after several hours trying, I never could get the stem to come out. So, I just put the old switch back in.
(It looked to be in good condition; and worked well.)

So heading to our annual car show this past weekend, I washed the engine bay (which I have done several times before).
That next morning - NO HEADLIGHTS! :eek:
So, I am just beginning to trouble shoot why.
I saw this diagram on a similar recent thread, and it helps understand what to look for.
My detailed colored wiring digram is not much help.

Poer Diagram A.jpg


So, I wil start by checking things like the headlight ground on the passenger side; and power to the sockets.
From what I can see on the diagrams, and have read, there is NO headlight fuse. The headlight power comes directly off of the "welded splice".
All the other headlight switch functions work.
And, if the fusable link was the problem, I would have more things that do not work, like the ignition switch.

I did read somewhere that even a bad contact in the floor dimmer switch might also be a cause.
Any other thoughts??
 
Do you have "other" power in the car, like wipers/ tail/ park, dome, etc? Heater?

First thing I'd do is pull the connector off the dimmer switch, pull out the headlight switch, and probe all three. You should have power on 1 wire. If so, plug it back in and probe all 3 terminals. You should still have power on the first wire you found it on, as well as a second. When you actuate the switch, that power should switch to the third terminal. Power in from the light switch, power out on either hi or lo beam.

From there power goes through the bulkhead terminals in the connector to the lamps. They have a common ground, near or on the radiator support. Perhaps it is loose/ corroded.
 
OP couldn't get the switch out. I would find another stem and cut yours off. Replace the switch seeing you have one. I've seen the connectors melt on the switch which can cause this too. JMO. I'm sure you know headlight grounds are on the radiator support.
 
soonercruiser said:
Have had no electrical problems for a year now with the 67 Barrcuda.
When I had the dash apart to replace the dash bezels , I did attempt to put in a new headlight switch.
**But, after several hours trying, I never could get the stem to come out. So, I just put the old switch back in.
(It looked to be in good condition; and worked well.)

So heading to our annual car show this past weekend, I washed the engine bay (which I have done several times before).
That next morning - NO HEADLIGHTS! :eek:
So, I am just beginning to trouble shoot why.
I saw this diagram on a similar recent thread, and it helps understand what to look for.
My detailed colored wiring digram is not much help.

View attachment 1716313394

So, I wil start by checking things like the headlight ground on the passenger side; and power to the sockets.
From what I can see on the diagrams, and have read, there is NO headlight fuse. The headlight power comes directly off of the "welded splice".
All the other headlight switch functions work.
And, if the fusable link was the problem, I would have more things that do not work, like the ignition switch.

I did read somewhere that even a bad contact in the floor dimmer switch might also be a cause.
Any other thoughts??
Click to expand...



Just in case you weren't aware...


The stem for the headlight switch knob is released by pushing down on the release button on the switch itself, then pulling out on the knob to release the stem.

See diagram below.

If you were aware of this , please disregard.


1728476544054.png
 
Last edited:
There might not be a fuse but there certainly is a breaker inside the switch. It's supposed to be self resetting but I have only ever seen them break, never unbreak
 
Switch must be in the on position before pushing the release button. I would replace the switch if you have been yanking on it like a sasquatch.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Switch must be in the on position before pushing the release button. I would replace the switch if you have been yanking on it like a sasquatch.
Click to expand...
This^^^^^ AND sometimes you have to push the stem in VERY slightly and pull back out before it will unlock. But it must be pulled out first. Don't SNATCH on it, just pull it out normal like you are turning the headlights on. Then press the button.
 
67Dart273 said:
Do you have "other" power in the car, like wipers/ tail/ park, dome, etc? Heater?

First thing I'd do is pull the connector off the dimmer switch, pull out the headlight switch, and probe all three. You should have power on 1 wire. If so, plug it back in and probe all 3 terminals. You should still have power on the first wire you found it on, as well as a second. When you actuate the switch, that power should switch to the third terminal. Power in from the light switch, power out on either hi or lo beam.

From there power goes through the bulkhead terminals in the connector to the lamps. They have a common ground, near or on the radiator support. Perhaps it is loose/ corroded.
Click to expand...
All other powered areas work!
 
Super-Cuda said:
Just in case you weren't aware...


The stem for the headlight switch knob is released by pushing down on the release button on the switch itself, then pulling out on the knob to release the stem.

See diagram below.

If you were aware of this , please disregard.


View attachment 1716313448
Click to expand...
Disregarding! :lol:

Yup! Seems so simple doesn't it? But never could get it to release; even after spraying some lube.
 
soonercruiser said:
Just spent a little time refreshing all the ground wires up front this evening.
I'll need daylight to tackle the switch.
Click to expand...
Excuses. I've seen Stevie Wonder play the piano.

You can't see anything under the dash any way.
 
HEADLIGHTS SOLVED!!!
I already had new dimmer switch and headlight switch in hand.
But.......The dimmer switch stopped even making the clicking sound when depressed.
SO! IT WAS THE BAD DIMMER SWITCH!
Problem solved! Let there be light!
:thumbsup:
 
Now is a good time to get out your volt meter, set it to test continuity and troubleshoot exactly where the switch failed. Doing things like this will help immensely in the future when it comes to troubleshooting. Just another tool in your toolbox you can use to figure out exactly where the failure is coming from without needing to swap parts out first.
 
A leaky wiper pivot seal loves to get the dimmer area wet, creating corrosion in those dimmer units.
 
I am not trying to say "I told you so," etc, but here is a bit of how it was:

When I first got my first couple of cars, there was no internet, there were no factory service manuals (available to me), just an out of date Motor's manual, what little my "friends" thought they knew, often wrong, and then in 70 when I got my first RR, a 383 4 speed, I BOUGHT a factory manual from the dealer, and a bit later, when I bought the 70 440-6 RR from a friend, HE had a manual in the TRUNK which he had bought!!!

But there were still no forums, no message boards, you had to figure this stuff OUT
 
ESP47 said:
Now is a good time to get out your volt meter, set it to test continuity and troubleshoot exactly where the switch failed. Doing things like this will help immensely in the future when it comes to troubleshooting. Just another tool in your toolbox you can use to figure out exactly where the failure is coming from without needing to swap parts out first.
Click to expand...
As I said, eventually the switch wouldn't even make the clicking sound when depressed.
So was internal in the switch; not contacts.
Not wort "investigating" where it went bad, as new one was just $10.
My personal time is worth more than the switch was.
 
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