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Totally agree . I'n definitely going to check my parts and verify the measurements . I don't do half assed fixes and" close enough" is not in my playbook.

I'm looking forward to checking the lengths of the the two drive shafts I have and will compare them to 19Dart66 measurements as I'm sure they are correct. I'll post pics when I measure them.

Yup! You may be correct if the measurements you have are the same as my driveshafts. I am going to pull out both driveshafts and check the measurements. I did buy my car used and its possible the wrong shaft or a different shaft was in it. Pics to follow.

How are you addressing the width issues? I saw this done before and it included cutting the axle tubes down to proper size, cutting off the axle ends and welding on the 8 3/4 or 8 1/4 ends in order to use passenger car axles and brakes.

My 68 Barracuda with a factory 7 1/4 rear end and a 904 automatic transmission. Installed a 8 3/4 rear end from a 1971 Demon 340. 741 case , small yoke. Installed with no modifications to the original driveshaft. When I installed a 727 small block transmission from a 70 340 Duster, I had to...

You should be good to go as long as you have the correct u-joint for the yoke in the rear differential . Use the driveshaft you are presently using in your Dart. Must be different with a Cuda as I had no problem doing this going from a 7 1/4 to an A-body 8 3/4 from a 71 Demon. As far as I'm...

Actually, its a 9 1/4 . Also, what leaf spring perches are you using? I think the 7 1/4 axle tubes are smaller than the 9 1/4 so the spring perches are different and the Volare springs may not mount properly to them,

7 1/4 rear end 3.21 final drive ratio

Not an Aspen option either

If the fender tag doesn't have A-57, it doesn't have the Road Runner option or, you have the wrong fender tag for the car. I don't see A-45 listed as a Volare option.

In 1976-80, the Road Runner was an option only, not a model. Look for option code A57 on the fender tag. VIN will only identify the car as a Volare.

Check here. Store - All Reproduction Parts | Tonys Parts

National Moparts Contact: Nigel National Mo-Parts – Est. 1987

Don't forget this part for your conversion. Z-Bar chassis bracket. Redirect Notice It Goes Here.

Ok , gotcha, Major brain-fart LOL !!

I think you would have to remove the window regulator and the glass to get at it. Even then , I'm not sure what effective swing you would get with a hammer. The procedure works great though when you have access.

That should work ok. Use this. Permatex® Steel Weld 4 Minute Metal Epoxy LOL !! Just posted several different model 71 doors, none with the reliefs for the clips. Why would Mopar do that??

So I looked into this further and the 1971 Duster did not have the square recess for the armrest clips like the 67-69 Cuda's I didn't check the Dart so not sure about them. Here's a pic of a 71 door frame and it doesn't have the recesses for the clips, just a hole. Damm!! Pretty cheezy way...

Just curious. Do you have a pic of the complete door you can post showing all the holes in it? What model is this door from?

Very much like the way it came from the factory.

Yup! Im in that group! Me, I'm taking the carb off to do any work like that. Paid way too much for the motor to risk something falling into it without me noticing and then ruin it for the sake of removing 4 nuts and some linkage.

That's a great looking car!!

I would be in at 38K. First order of business would be to install a HDK or RMS front suspension. These are the only guys I would trust with aftermarket rack and pinion based front suspension systems. Second. Really go over the transmission mount mods for the keisler 5-speed as this is a...

Looks good at first glance . The front end components including the K-Frame look suspect and don't get very good reviews. AJE RACING K MEMBERS ??? Can't tell from pics how the transmission crossmember was modified for the 5-speed Kiesler trans. Stance looks good but ride height is too high...

Hi Mad Dog, Here's how I did my 68 Barracuda. I wanted a finished look as well. Should be very similar for your Duster.

Unfortunately, the armrest base does not use a machine screw, and, the hole is at an angle. Welding /attaching a nut won't work either as it will lay flat . Cutting and spreading the metal and then rewelding the slot takes minutes and works.

Exactly! Very easy fix if you have access to a Mig welder.

Straight foward fix if you are good with a Mig welder or have a friend who is. 1, Cut a slot with a mini grinder or even a Dremel tool just above the hole. 2. Put a large blade screwdriver in the slot you made with the grinder and spread the gap of the slot it until the hole starts to close...

Definitely return it but, unfortunately, they are all made by the same manufacturer. PG Classics has the monopoly on the supplier.

Hey 340 sFastback, I've done this many times and by far, the best way is to take off the steering wheel and drop the steering column. Drop the fuse box. Its very easy, one phillips screw. Do not install the headlight switch or the headlight dimmer switch light connector. Install the wiper...