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The build sheet can be found in numerous places including under the rear seat, under the carpet, on top of glovebox, behind the front seat under the back to name some common. Also there is usually the vehicle order number stamped on the body that should match the last six digits on the bottom...

Story of my life

I have a pair of strut rods from a 74 Duster. $20.00 each plus shipping from El Dorado Hills, Ca. PM me if interested.

:thumbsup: :steering:

I did the same thing on my 75 Dart Sport. It started out as a slant six car and I installed a big block using the Schumacher conversion mounts. Ran it that way a few years and then removed the big block when it wiped a flat tappet cam lobe. Big block is on hold for a while and had a 360 small...

PB, no truer words were ever spoken. I can think of at least 15 to 20 cars that I cut loose that I wish I had back. Not to mention, one or two of them might be worth high 5 to low 6 figures there days.

I can tell you how to verify it. Get a bunch of wood clothespins and clamp them on all of the metal fuel line you can get to. A bunch of um. If the problem goes away, it's vapor lock. It's actually very rare to have real vapor lock though.

Looks like you did alright, IMO! But one thing: Once you get the car running, if you truly enjoy it, never sell it, as most of the people here have cars from Back In The Day they wish they had kept. Enjoy this time in your Life, and don't waste a minute of it!

If any of you have any vapor lock solutions more specific to 2barrel bbd 273 1967 dodge dart setup feel free to give any tips.

I like that body style a lot. Make SURE you CLOSELY inspect inside the cowl and open the doors and look in the area the back of the front fenders cover up. Also get under tha dash and closely inspect the under side of the cowl. Those cars are HELL about rusting the cowls slap out.

Check into the tax impacts on you taking it out versus your spouse taking it our on you.

I did find it interesting just how hard the VSOs from the VA that were there at a briefing entirely of National Guard Soldiers, were pushing everyone to file VA claims. Especially since I couldnt get a single one to help me file mine. Cause I was “National Guard”.

You are correct RRR, I just found the Speedway receipt for the ones I bought.

A voltmeter AT THE battery will tell you that as well. That is part of the reason I emphasize voltage checks. Crank the engine cold and hot, with your probes stuck into the tops of the battery posts. If the battery is known to be charged, and the voltage sags anywhere near 10V or...

Even worse a $100 dollar gal and all you got is $2.

Looking for a pair of Black, '71 Dodge Dart Sun Visors

Love it! Hope I can do the same in 10 years!

Years ago I had a black 73 340 4 speed RR and a 74 Satellite Sebring Plus that was a 318 car. I swapped the 318 because of low oil pressure for a low compression 74 360. If I wanted to just cruise, I'd take the Satellite. If I wanted to do some back street racing, I'd take the RR. I really...

That's what I posted....but neglected to post where. duhhh. Speedway Motors.

Yeah I will likely do the same. The SBP won’t pay for crap at my rank and points, so the life policy hold more value. Though I’m really looking at the whole life policy as well. Mainly cause it gains cash value I can use in case of emergencies down the road.

My setup is for a stick car with a micro switch that is activated when the clutch pedal is all the way down( I can't see why this wouldn't work with a brake pedal) So how it works the line lock button and clutch switch, are wired through a toggle switch to two relays that wire into the 2 step...

They make the oilite bushing in 5/16" as well as 3/8". I've bought them before to replace the cheesy nylon bushing. I'll dig around and see if I can find who I bought them from.

Thats one mean lookin' SumBitch.

Brand new McLeod Clutch Disc 260121. Retails for $159.00, selling for $100 plus ride.

Naw. That won't work, Mike. The correct bushings are a flanged bushing. The flange goes inside the holes on the shift levers and then the rods install THROUGH the flange bushings taking up all of the space between the shift lever and rods. Unless you're talking about the shims between the actual...