Search results for query: *

I've posted this before, and I'm not trying to single you out. WE cannot see what you have. We only know what you tell us. This board, here is a two way street. If you want meaningful information, and if you expect some of us to put time in trying to help you, YOU need to answer...

What you are claiming is mostly impossible. In other words you are missing something important, and probably a lot simpler 1....What did you mean, "tested around and cut all the wires?" Cut WHAT wires? 2....Just how did you determine that the "battery + and - are shorted together?"...

I would do the following 1...Install some sort of method to get an accurate voltmeter on the block and starter stud, so you can measure batt V while cranking. One way is to simply get a couple of no 14 or smaller wire size eyelets with 3/8 eyes, get some scrap wire any size, 18-14...

I would suspect you are making a l mistake somehow. You are aware? That the tail /park circuit gets power from a separate source. B1 /B2 both must be receiving power. Check it under load. Install it loose, hanging down so you can access the terminals. Pull on park. Check that B1...

THAT IS NOT a vented cap. That is an evap controlled, pressure/ vacuum cap. In other words it is for pressure release. Be careful. Those caps changed almost yearly. There is an old photo posted by I think Steve, OldManMopar, showing the changes over the years.

I have a suggestion where you can put the tailshaft of that transmission WHICH YOU DID NOT BOTHER TO SHOW IN THE PHOTOS

The hell do you want? WHAT IN THE HELL DO YOU WANT? JUST WHAT IN THE **** DO YOU WANT?

Most connectors fall into place. Most all only connect to one component. Example of "some confusion." The single wire that attaches to the brake warning lamp switch down on the brake prop valve. But it has a stud push on connector. Not very many of them in the car. The other single...

You need to be more specific. Your post is so general that we have no idea what you are looking at Generally speaking, parts stores are gonna be LITTLE help. NAPA used to/ may still have, useable headlight/ flasher connectors, and the connector for the voltage regulator, as well as...

There are also various "conversion joints" which amount to one size on two journals, and another size on the other two.

I think that stuff is available at the Hamtramck registry site. https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/

It would be swell, when you ask questions such as this, if you'd actually post a photo. One larger than a postage stamp, and maybe one that actually shows the entire transmission. Hint: Cannot see the output Also, "the numbers" may or may not actually mean much. As old as these girls...

My take on Kim, over the years, is that he is not a whiner. I'm 75, and Kim has been around for considerably longer My solution? I just don't fuckin go there

Actually, this is not true.

TREMENDOUS!!! What is the brake lathe? Don't recognize it. I've used an OLD Van Norman many decades ago, and used and have an Ammco combo disc/ drum lathe. I've literally turned thousands of drums and rotors in 15 some years selling parts

Hey young'in, how the heck ya been?

Only time I've seen a slip yoke that is keyed/ master spline is when it must be clocked, IE a slip yoke on a shaft

On a side note, Don is 92 and looks like he could be 60

Don't forget "thread files." They can be very useful. The old school "normal" thread file is rectangular overall, and squared into 4 working surfaces which are divided in the middle of the file, lengthwise. This gives you 8 separate surfaces, so each file can accomodate 8 different...

Lordie, lordie, LORDIE!!

What in the Gargoyle is this?? The answer is, !!!!NO!!!! I am NOT going to allow "Google" to have access to "necessary cookies!!!!"

Agree.

I am guessing that an engine that has suffered main bearing block damage, and been line bored might be a candidate for re-alignment??

I am somewhat dismayed by some of the comments here. Some folks might read these and conclude that mopar alternators bad, "1 wire" magically good." I owned my first 69 RR in 1970 for a short time, then my 70 in about early 72. By about 75 or 6 I had a clapped out 64 FJ-40 Landcruiser...

RT one thing you might consider, is simply using a smaller, typical 1 1/2-3hp single phase compressor for some of the smaller jobs. It would likely be more efficient overall. I did not realize it was a screw, which I would guess would lighten the starting load considerably.

The oil pressure tapping goes all the way down through the engine and out the bottom, with another branch gallery meeting it. There's a small cup plug has to be up in there to separate the two. Discussion of that area...

Many of those types of motors are dual voltage, AKA can be rewired. Check the nameplate

You are out of my league, (I think I said that wrong, LOL) HP wise, on this one. But I agree with the others as to capacity concerns. All phase converters that are motor driven are quite inefficient. There is a LOT of losses. Also, high HP 3 phase motors have very different...