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Thanks, it's a new build, the brass bushing is new. After cleaning it up, the intermediate shaft is in excellent condition. I feel bad, some people actually go to the yard for the sole purpose of stealing tools to make some money....it's sad. When I was a kid, the junkyard was a much more...

No, but I will say you have to watch your tools. On my way out one guy said someone stole his socket set and he was only gone for like a minute to look at something else.

...I also want to note, that those seats in that Ram Van were velvet and really comfy. Not only was it easier to retrieve the shaft than say a pickup, but I did so in luxurious comfort.

Nice, thanks. I did notice you can still buy Melling bronze gear versions but they are $200.

Thanks everyone, I got one. See pic. It was from a 5.2L Ram Van - that was great advice!!! Much easier to get to, took me literally 5 minutes to pull it. Pick-n-Pull charged me for this and a piece of trim for my wife's minivan.....$12. Note to cite above to IS-72 at A1 Racing, I called...

I'm gonna try the junkyard. I don't see any Ram Vans in our local inventory, but there are a few 5.9L trucks. Is that shaft the same in the 5.2L magnum?

Scratch that, my source fell through....anyone have one?

All good, got one, thanks all.

I see there's a gouger on Ebay asking $360/per.....ouch.

I'm looking for an intermediate shaft for a 360 magnum. Apparently they are hard to find. I believe the part number is Melling IS-72. I had my engine built, got it in, went to pump up the oil and noticed there was no intermediate shaft (well at least I didn't have to remove it...). I called...

Yeah, on ebay it's $62. And, it's for a less robust system, those boots invariably dry out and crack/break due to heat from the exhaust manifold/headers. Engineers sometimes get a little too creative. The post is a tried and true solution, why change it? The answer is....drum roll....so you...

Wow, let's see, shall I return the 99617 for a full refund and buy the 99612 (superior) model with the post....or, keep the 99617 and buy the pigtail for and additional $55 frickin dollars....hmmm..... For a minute there yesterday I was thinking of taking that socket off, drilling it out and...

Ah yes, the earlier model has the post...thanks. b

OK, so the 2000 Dakota R/T 360 mini starter has a socket connector for the solenoid wire. I can't find that pigtail anywhere. Does someone have a part number or a spare one?

Thank you!

I am swapping from SL6 to 360 magnum. I had used a mini starter on my slant six, Remy 16054, see pic below. Alas, it does not seem to fit my 360 magnum. I read on this forum someone used a "2000 Dakota 360 R/T" mini starter. Does someone have part number(s) for mini starters compatible with...

I suspect it'll wear off some of the end and it'll be fine. I've never seen one burn. I suppose I could trim it a bit...

My tranny guy said his boot actually touched. I could just fold it under like it was...

OK, I wrote to my transmission guy; he said it should be 1" from bottoming out. That's where it's setting almost exactly. b

OK, perhaps I should have mentioned I don't usually go over 4000 rpm. Anyway, I'm getting the larger, correct, pulley.

I'd have to measure....but, what about the boot on the seal? It interferes with how far I can insert the yoke, does that count? I know that I could insert it far enough to get the rear u joint past the cradles in order to seat it and bolt it in...

...you know they want $90 bucks for that pulley...plus shipping. All good, I've already ordered it.

My car has all four wheels on the ground. There isn't a hole in the boot. Any others want to opine if I have enough distance between the yoke and the tail end of the tranny? Does the driveshaft move forward and back more than 1" during normal operation? B

Yes, I used a straight edge and they align perfectly. Still, I've ordered the newer style water pump pulley that puts it with the alternator, rather than the power steering pump. b

OK, I'll order the correct water pump pulley. Thanks again for all your help.

Actually, I wasn't arguing at all, I was simply questioning whether one has to go exactly-as-stock every time, when from my experience that is rarely true. I'm not ignoring the (solid) advice, in fact I thanked you all for it more than once. I may even order that water pump pulley and go that...

OK, so question to the forum. How much distance should there be between the end of the tranny tailshaft and the yolk? Looks like mine is a bit tight, I have 1 1/4". I can have the drive shaft shortened, just need to know if I need to and if so by how much. Brian

No, I didn't press the pulley on at all, I simply cut off the front of the double pulley that was on there. Am I not speaking English or something....? We seem to be caught in a do-loop of some sort. Was it a good idea to remove the shoulder so a puller will no longer get it off? Probably...

Oh yeah, I know the real seal is inside, I was just asking about the boot. thanks.

I usually get way more receptive and helpful comments on this board. You guys really think I'm gonna lose a belt or overheat? No way. Should I also rip out my electronic ignition and go back to points... ? There are a ton of interchangeable OEM parts...gee whiz. Sometimes one can be too...