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Right in the dumpster

I have seen the 8-3/4 rear in 4x4’s and not in 5x4.5” bolt circle. I forget but it akin to 5x5 or bigger. Plenty of c-body cores for cutting.

If you find a D truck or B van 8-3/4 please don’t cut. They are somewhat uncommon. Many of the trucks came with Chrysler (not Dana) 9.25 rearends. I would love to find one for my truck.

Are there any options for a 8HP to LA? That is the transmission you really want and I would bet it would be cheaper because you can get a used one cheap and if there is a TCM available I don’t see it putting the cost over a Silver Sport. I don’t have Fakebook but maybe one of you Bookers can...

Where is this guy at? State? Zip?

If I were building a rearend from scratch I would probably do a big Ford housing end (Torino) that uses tapered bearings. I don’t like Green bearings because I have had two different failures with the old version. Yes, they revised it but I’ve been twice bitten and have never had a problem with...

This sums it up 100%. I am no fan of green bearing because I have blown through two set on my 70 'cuda back when it was on the road. Alter-k-tion/ triangulated 4-link car. I cornered that ***** hard. Like someone else said, if I were building a drag car I would use the Green bearings but I'm...

You see, the secret ingredient for the cam lobes is butter. The lobes are made of butter. LOL

Pretty snazzy stuff for the "I hate having money" kind of guy. If you think it's expensive look at the Currie Enterprises floater stuff. If you want more economical give Quick Performance a call. They are less expensive but you would couldn't run a 5x4.5" bolt pattern unless you paid extra for...

...O.D. Floater Spindles • 4130 steel • Provides rigid support for hubs & bearings • Designed for 3″ or 3 1/4″ OD housing tubing • 2.800″ OD tube end * * Requires finish turning to suit axle tube ID Steel Hubs • Machined for 4 1/2″, 4 3/4″, & 5″ bolt circles • Accepts Pro Touring 1/2″ or 5/8″...

Cause anything is better than Green bearings! :poke:

Yes. Strange Engineering can hook you up.

8HP70 :thumbsup:

Or an RV cam, or a 3/4 race cam, or a purple cam. LOL.

Or cowl induction hoods.

I will preface what I am going to say with this: I had a 2003 GMC Yukon and I LOVED the 5.3 engine! I was actually thinking about scrapping the truck and keeping the engine and 4L60E for a 1984 Jeep Wagoneer project. The Jeep ended up having some serious rust so I sold the Yukon for $600. In my...

I did a little more research and found that the Dak rears are over 6" wider than the A-body 8.25. Sounds like a no-go for me.

Quick down and dirty: I am looking at an 8-1/4 for sale that is from a Dakota. It has a Sure Grip and 3.21 ratio. New bearings. A-body spring perches. Sounds like a great deal to me. I have a 1973 Duster with a single leg, 2.71 gear. Is this a straight swap? I am worried the driveshaft...

Give the Torino (Big Ford) bearing ends a look. If you are using a Ford Dana I don’t see why you should be married to Mopar brakes unless you already have them. You will need to give you fuel tank consideration. Upgrade the cover with an LPW girdle cover.

Yes I’ll check the orientation of the isolators.

Yeah, it’s definitely something to figure out. I’ll have 3 days R&R when I get back home so I will be getting to the bottom of it. The motor mounts seem to be in the right place but I’ll double check everything.

@Topless69 I’m in the same predicament with a stock 73 340/4 spd. From what I have gathered is that the 8-1/4 is fine for that application. Plenty of gear choices from Doctor Diff and others to support it. I think if I were wanting to achieve your goals I wouldn’t look at weight as much as I...

Sadly, For Trucks Only is a ghost town.

Do you think the trans crossmember could have been rotated 180 degrees? Here are some me things I am certain of, engine mounts bolted on correctly and in the correct engine crossmember holes, the “long” tailshafts are all the same length. I’m highly suspicious of the trans crossmember at...

Nah, have to do it the old fashioned way due to the crystal shortage.

Thanks for that info. These are the original metal engine mounts and new biscuits. The mounts are stamped LR and RR so they in the right configuration. Also, the original engine is a 318 and so is this rebuilt one.

They are. That’s was my initial thought, “Maybe my engine mount tabs are on the front of the block ears.” They’re not and the distributor cap is as close as I want it to the firewall. So, the engine is definitely in the correct position. Bad mount or maybe the crossmember needs to be flipped...

I did take the crossmember out. That is a good point to consider. I cleaned up the slip yoke while it was out so it's hard to tell where that line from the seal is (inside of the seal was clean and the pat that was out of the seal was grimey). I wire wheeled and painted it so I can't see the...