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I had the same except 3s, and an H-pipe. Was very happy with that. I gotta warn you tho; at 7200 they are anything but quiet, lol.

1) If the distributor is factory, it was likely curved for 5* initial, and 30 degrees in the flyweights. for a total of 35Degrees.. With 18* initial now, you are trying to run 53* of Power-Timing, and the engine is complaining by detonation, which kills power. 2) With hi-compression heads on a...

A 30% gear change is sortof like just using the next gear in the trans. For instance; Say you had 2.76s and went to 3.91s, the road gears with a 727 are ------ 6.76-4.00-2.76 versus 9.58- 5.67-3.91, ---- So you are just trading one gear for another. IMO, what you should really do is get rid...

You already got the rest of the conversion?

I built a big-tub car cuz inside the factory tubs, even lowered; 1) I could install 325/50-15s, for straight-line work, and/or 2) as a DD she accepts 295/50-15s, with no cornering restrictions. I like the looks of those wide tires back there; among other things. .

Really? I guess you should show the rest of us how, on a budget, you did that. And don't say airshocks; clown. I don't understand how, even when the OP asks for an opinion, you are still ready to brag on your car, whilst busting my balls. Op asked for an Opinion. I got an idea; Go start your...

...temperature gauge, and, Secondly; determine the efficiency of the system; If the coolant temp drops 30 degrees, from top to bottom at idle, then it is as good as it gets. If only 20*, then it is borderline, but you still cannot blame the rad for that. You have more diagnostic checks to perform.

"Which would I build, and why?" Ok you asked; Neither cuz: I'm a HotRodder addicted to jumping on the throttle, and letting the power fly. 255s (which is the biggest tire that will fit into the factory tubs), are not gonna ever handle the power I'm gonna build. However; If I was gonna build a...

BTW. Why are you contemplating this gearbox change? I have run every Mopar gear ratio there is, and for a slanty, the OD box is a pretty good DD choice. Just not with hiway gears. The OD box likes 3.91s With those, your Road gears would be- 12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85 The gear of note in this box is...

Well; if I had been scared it would flip out onto the TO fork/retainer pilot, and rattle around, I would simply have pinned it to the BH from the ring outwards with set screws. No welding no brazing no machining, no washering, none of that. Two pins minimum, and the only reason to make them...

I had a steel one made at a local machine shop> Light press-fit. It was in and out at least four times in six years, as I was slamming gearboxes around. I never had a problem. This is a fact. This is not an opinion.

How many cylinders are actually working, and how well.

Local machine shop did several for me.

That was 22 years ago. Engine was freshened a total of 5 times, same way, and now has over 100,000 miles on it. Never had a gasket failure after that, and I reused the 1008s a few times. IMO, If you don't try stuff, you don't learn. Like making babies. I learned that even tho the buy-in on...

Be aware that as for the A-body output shafts; there are two of them; one for 904-sized slip-yokes and another for 727 sized yokes. And the extension housings are similarly sized. So then, if yur buying on-line, make sure you get the right one. Also, they all come either cast-iron cased or...

I had a similar problem once. I roughed up the decks, installed 1008s, and after torqueing them all to 95, I cranked it up to 105, still not heat-cycled, and loosened/retorqued each one in sequence. Arp bolts with ARP grease. That solved it, even to 195psi.

I agree.

The stock VB, with a wired-back throttle valve, will downshift according to command of the governor. On the street this is gonna have the potential to spin the car out, when it unexpectedly downshifts on closed throttle deceleration. I imagine it wouldn't be much different on a track. To...

This was my thinking too in 1970 when I bought a 70 Swinger340/4-speed/3.55s, that tipped the scales at 3330 with me in it. Yeah it was a 2-door. My previous, and First car had been a 57 Belaire 4-door hardtop, bought in 1969, and altho in pristine condition, it didn't survive long with me...

car musttahad a manual trans? I used to keep a block like that in my trunk, but eventually, I emptied my trunk to save weight and bought a CAA membership. Eventually, I gave up the card too, as I almost never get flats; and when I do, I am within walking distance of home. Since 1984, I mightahad...

This job is too easy not tackle. Almost without exception, the brushes get to be too short, and the alternator slowly quits. Or, the bearings get to be noisy. Yeah, I bought a puller for that, and eventually, a press lol. after that I rebuilt a pile of them, for spares, most of which have been...

We could be twins. My passion got superseded by a new one, namely, the Word of God. It started in about year 2000. By 2015, I had got a bunch of understanding that rapidly led to my current status. I just turned 71, and I can't see this passion ever waning.........

As to a vacuum leak; You said it passed all the external leak tests AND, that you have pressure in the CC, so IMO, if you did a good job, then you can rule out a vacuum leak. By backing out the speed screw, the throttle valves are fully closed. therefor, air is entering the intake from...

...and no amount of idle-timing would cure it, nor idle-rpm. Afterwards, like said; it would idle down to 550 in gear, and pulling itself, with just 5* of Idle-advance, with a starter gear of 2.66 x 3.55= 9.44. My attempt at solving this prior to tear-down included; A) the engine was already...

Like TB said EVERYTHING But, you may be able to swap the entire truck geartrain into the burned up trans, or just the clutches and bands; and be back on the road in a few hours. IF I say IF, the gaskets survive the transplant ............ which is not likely. SO Since you gotta buy some...

...air at the rear jumper. If you have replaced that line and used gear clamps, then those clamps can wrinkle up and open an air passage into the line. The cure is a second clamp on each side and to stagger the screws 180*. They do not leak fuel because they are higher than the tank. Good luck.

That trick should not be necessary on a Mopar, The fluid volume, and the pressure, is so large, that going lock to lock to lock, even just once, is usually enough to bleed the lines. If you have kinked the hi-pressure line, this will cause a venturi to form downstream of the kink, which will...

...crank it over. Afterwards it was click/vroom-vroom, and off we go. Oh and whereas before the change it was not happy idling less than 800/850 @14* Idle-Timing; whereas afterwards same combo would idle down to 500@5* Idle-Timing, and pull itself on hard flat even ground, with a manual trans...

IIRC The 2-door Scamps/Valiants, were also 108s?

...problems. Just saying. If I had to guess, maybe the screw-in studs are not properly seated in the back of the axles, and/or not installed at 90* to the flanges. Or maybe; by any chance are you running a manual trans and/or a high-compression engine? and/or Cal-Tracs? and/or Zero Brake...