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I'll also mention that you need to make sure the case of the alternator has a good ground that is common with B-. Modern electronics require many more grounds that are connected to the battery than these cars did back when they were built. My motto for EFI system is, if you think you have enough...

If you’ve done everything I’ve outlined here, there is no connection required on the two pin. Just connect the charge post to your battery.

Dude is a machine!

I'm likely responsible for the pressure to do autocross. Sorry, not sorry.

I previously ran a 1.08 t-bar, Hotchkis shocks, and their sway bars. You will read online that big bars will beat you to death. That statement couldn't be more false. If you have a good shock to control the spring rate a big bar offers, you will be good. You will also be amazed at how just a...

It’s from Tanks Inc. I don’t recall the brand. I’ve planned on upgrading the fuel system at some point anyway, so not a big deal.

For those following along here, I went to autocross this past weekend. This was the first time since I had the power steering problems last time out. I'm happy to report the modifications (corrections) I made worked. It was also the first time successfully around the cones with the hemi. Very...

Oh, pre heat. Sensor connected directly to the gauge "A" always heats up faster. Not by much, maybe a few seconds.

I installed the new 1" bungs right on the surface of the pipe to get them further out of the exhaust flow, instead of recessing the bung. Innovate says they don't need to be in the flow, so why not keep them protected by being further away. The tip of the sensor is even with the 1" bung, so I...

That's the highest the sensor reads. The engine isn't running in this photo.

I updated my build thread with this information, but I figured I'd put it here as well. Earlier in this thread I mentioned I failed an O2 sensor. Well, the second one didn't last long either. As it turns out, the bungs I used were only 1/2" tall which put the tip of the sensor into the exhaust...

I wanted to provide an update on this alternator modification since I now have about 600ish miles on my G3 swap. The voltage regulatory is working perfectly. Just last week I drove to a cruise night 70 miles from home. This was the longest drive at night since getting the car back on the road...

I'll throw something out there for everyone to ponder. I'm sure not everyone has been up close and personal with a locomotive engine, so I'll explain. In particular, GE loco engines use huge head studs as you can imagine. They have a tool that stretches the stud and you simply run the nut down...

Glad you are making some progress. There's always that "Ah-Ha" moment when things start to work. You know, the thought of adjusting stoich for modern fuel with ethanol in it never crossed my mind. The problem is you'll never know what ethanol content you have unless you use a flex fuel sensor...

I added a cooler to the return line. It’s a plate and tube style with 10 plates. It’s approximately 12” wide. I did a quick 10 mile ride after I got done, which would had previously made the fluid 200+ degrees. I shot it with the infrared immediately when I got back and it was down to 170. Last...

Reference what I mentioned above that the ECU doesn't know the physical position of the IAC. If you pulled the IAC out and operated it, you probably noticed that once its pulled in all the way, it still steps but it doesn't move. There's some type of clutch in it to prevent damage. So, knowing...

I think the idle valve is always a guess. It's easy to determine which pins are the coils, but the polarity is a shot in the dark. Mine seemed like it was correct initially, but quickly realized it only moved one direction. It's as simply as reversing polarity one of the coils to make it...

Awesome! I know it’s a great feeling when they finally make noise. I guess I forgot I have pull up resistors on my cam and crank signals from when I ran the small block. I have them made into the harness inside the car. 30KPA is normal. Mine idles around 45 and I have an aftermarket cam...

I just installed an early 5.7 in my car. I tore it down and pretty much put the bottom end right back together with all the same parts except the rings. The bearings looked like they had just come out of a box. I did, however, replace the head bolts. They are only $20 per side on rock auto...

The data should just show up when you start cranking

Sorry. Yes I am a pre-eagle, non-vvt 5.7.

Use the "Diagnostics and High Speed Loggers" tab at the top to view the cam and crank signals. These are my settings, which are likely the same as yours if you copied the DIY site. If you used a generic analog input for the oil pressure, you need to figure out what input you used and scale...

Make sure you have your crank signal setting correct in tuner studio. I just copied what DIY Autotune shows on their webpage.

Of course, but I doubt your setup is anything like mine considering I made the throttle cable bracket and the bracket for the cable to connect to the throttle body.

I forgot to mention I also added a secondary return spring to the throttle body. I'm not sure why I didn't think to add one earlier on, but it's on there now for safety reasons. Who knows if that Chinese knockoff throttle body will decide to quit doing spring things.

I know forums are mostly a dead resource, but I hope someone can find this one day to help them solve their problems. I consider the time it takes me to update this page is worth paying it forward for the education I've received over the years.

I'm fairly confident I have my power steering issues resolved. Ultimately, I think there were 3 problems, 2 of which were caused by my ignorance/neglect. While this is frustrating, it was a learning experience I didn't know I needed. @Dantra was kind enough to ship me his power steering analyzer...

Mine is in the exhaust collector about 6” from the end of the pipe. I didn’t use the TTI location since they have the bung on the outside of the header collector. I just didn’t like the idea of being able to see an O2 sensor from the side of the car. You may be ok if you use the header collector...

I ran mine a bit with open headers but could do any tuning. The O2 was too close to the end of the pipe and would read super lean when it was actually very fat! I’d recommend going through all the injector and coil tests just to make sure you don’t have any wiring errors. It doesn’t take long...

I've been in communication with Turn 1 and they shared this article with me. Turn One - Understanding Power Steering Pump Pressure It's almost like they wrote it for me. @Dantra was kind enough ship his steering analyzer to me so I can determine where I am currently. I'm hoping it is as simple...