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Awsome! I first saw that before youtube, on a real TV, but now everyone can see how well it works with a click of a button. Are you using porcelain or wood tank? I like the seperate tanks but their hard to find now - especailly with all the new restrictions on flow. Just like this thread...

Not many things with points set up that will fail just because they got a little warm. Maybe the condenser. If there's no choke, and it starts easily, could be too rich when it warms up. Normally (in my experience) too rich will die when load is put on it, not in neutral.

choke not opening? Choke should pull off a little bit immediately upon starting. Then open further based on temperature of the choke's bimetal coil.

Hysteric - you are arguing with yourself. Nobody here is making the presumption you think they (we) are. Its fine to think about what is probably happening in a real pulsing engine compared with a dry or a wet bench. Nobody is arguing with that either. The strawman statements are wear...

Much of engineering is based on emperically derived formulas and tables that have known relationships. It relates to science but is not the same describing relationships strictly on physics and chemistry. This is the way stuff gets done. This why Pipemax provides good guidance at the same...

...can miss a weak connection but in your situation seems like a good approach. FYI -'69 routed the Ignition 1 a little differently than other years* and IIRC has its own one year only ignition switch. I think bezzle and mounting are different than 67-8. Ignition 2 is pretty straight forward...

New means little. This was an incorrectly made crimp and incorrect terminal on an M&H harness I bought. It didn't matter until it started to fail. Then it mattered. Using the correct terminal required using the original plastic connector to retain it. Fortunately I had saved the original...

You said it was stock, with points, so the diagram is misleading. No power runs through the resistor during start when using points. What you don't understand about 67Dart273's explanation is what you need to understand to trace the problem. On the back of the key switch is an I2 terminal and...

Prof Fate's point is that the engine cranks with the key in start, therefore the starter relay is working and the NSS or ground for the relay is fine. Remy's answer was on point based on the information provided.

...an inline spark checker so you can see that. Charge the battery up too. Popping also could be intake valve not shut when the spark fired. 10* BTDC at 600 rpm should be fine but not sure what engine work etc could have bumped the dist. 66 273 has a solid lifter cam. Valve adjustment...

Yea. It was a lot of info for you to absorb in one evening. Take some time and go back through it all and it will start to make sense. Make your own drawings and sketches. Whatever it takes for you to learn. For me its drawing stuff out or at least tracing it. Seperate the stuff from last...

:( Some people here have taken them apart, but I have not. FYI The very center of the back is the ground contact. You can test for resistance but if you can see one of the wire coils is burned up, then that's not a good sign. A little evidence of heating wouldn't worry me if it resistance was...

The MR Heater box people should be able to help out with the mechanical cables. I'm sure used one are availablewithout too much hunting or waiting.

Lets see how bad it is. The engine compartment harness takes a beating from the heat and outdoors. Inside wiring often is in very good condition. If you just need some plastic connectors, most can be bought used or new. ps. thats a lot of money and my experience with replacement engine harness...

Your point is a good one. Loose wires, especially with a bit of weight on them, can jiggle around and even if they don't hit somehting immediately, over time the strands next to the crimp gets stressed and break. I certainly am guilty of having ignored and despised the factory wire supports...

...least on mine I found the factory had ground wire from the capacitor mounting screw to the radio support strut. I didn't see cap on your dash. I *think* it may not be needed if an electronic IVR is installed. Loose wires - broken connectors. Any of them could have been a short, or a...

H',m interesting. A loose connection is my only guess right now since when you directly connected the battery wires the car started and ran. Since we're not confident of the where the break was, it wouldn't hurt to gently tug and push on the wires at the bulkhead connected to see the...

There may be two seperate issues. Reasons are this 1. That little black doesn't seem like the result of something that created noticible smoke. It looks something that sparked. 2. If the short to ground was there, or anywhere in the battery connected lines, it would have smoked when the...

So what's our best guess? Mine is the second nut wasn't snugged down - but its just a guess. Does the ring terminal also have some black ? That's as good as we can get with a basic multimeter unless we set up a test circuit. IMO - and its just my opinion - is that there nothing to indicate a...

Yes it must be reasonably intact for power to have gone through it. How does it look?

This looks OK. What was touching? As far as the ammeter goes. Take it off and check the studs are tight and then test for resistance. It shouldn't have any measureable resistance. Compare to touching the meters probes together. That's about it for the meter. There's no electronics . Its...

That company has a good rep. here.

This^^^ You can and you did. The danger in doing this was that the cause of the smoke had not been identified yet. Just testing for resistance or continuity to ground would have let you know if there was a serious short.

Your missing my point. The board is what it is. It just made me wonder what has been changed. The ammeter may not be an ammeter - that's what I was getting at. It should look like the one I posted. Another view If the fuel gage is suspect, then take it out and look at it. It can be...

Here's view of the connections on the back of a 67 Rallye dash

I'm glad it worked but you got lucky. Stop doing that. That = When there is a failure that is causing smoke, do not just hook up the battery and turn things on. Think of those two wires as battery wires - because that's what they are. When there is a failure find the fault. Multimeter and...

I'm tempted to let you figure this one out so you will remember it, and understand it! In terms of function it doesn't matter if they are reversed. The needle will then point toward charge during starting and toward discharge while recharging. The ammeters I've seen on are only stamped with...

Steele was making both 67 and after 67 types. Send a PM to @Rob_Mopar to see if he can help you out. They were a dealer but they've cut back on retail. If not might be able to point you to another retailer.

Some tips on rallye dash removals https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/rallye-dash-removal-help.458877/post-1972907258 https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/70-dart-rallye-dash-removal-help.449162/...

Nothing so far screams gages failed. You all connected a "12 V" power source to the key switch feed. Pretty much the same as would be normal. Nothing else is needed to start. Where is the other half of that cut wire J1 ? Even if it the car battery was disconnecte,the main splice would get...