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And Dana for the win... Post #3 :rofl:

There is a bit of arbitrary enforcement of "rules" but it's not my forum so

Something I have noticed is the scammers are coming up with names that are a jumble of famous people LaBron James Alen Hale I'm thinking AI is generating a name

You can delete a post... Click on ... Then click on "Delete"

I had some made. I tested them polishing the part and they did not do an adequate job. So in the future I'll have them available unfinished. Like a sand cast finish. I'm going to see a local polisher but it will add about 50.00 per unit. Pm me if you want to buy one. I have made the plastic...

how about some photos of what you are talking about so others will not duplicate you mistake?

UPDATE: I have a sale ad in the "Mechanical Parts For Sale" section. Search for "67-72 A Body and 69-76 Dodge Truck Replacement Heater Control Pins" I would put the link here but a MOD decided I could not make a post pointing to a sale ad and took that post down. We will see if this post remains!

I see he was wearing a seat belt! Wonder if the dart has an E brake! If you know you know!

I can't say for sure but I would guess 80% gloss black. Many parts in the FSM are called out to that. I have also heard of a black barbeque paint that is a matte black almost chalky black color

I misinterpreted your description. I don't know if it would work but I had a thought of running a duel exhaust like this

Hi all, I am reproducing the heat only controller pins for 67-72 A Body and 69-76 Dodge Truck (May fit other models and years) These pins are made from aluminum rather than plastic. 2 pins shipped $20.00 US (US addresses only at this time) (Non US addresses pm me) I have 4 styles...

Steve, Is this how you are running your exhaust?

If you call US Radiator or other reproduction radiator manufacturers they can make you a rad to fit and out of the material of your choice. Can your core support be changed back to OEM? There is no reason a 69 340 rad can't fit properly with the stock OEM style parts.

They are still sending a pdf copy of the IBM card and tell you who / where the dealer is. They do not provide any other info. You have to decide the card yourself. It takes a few months as they only do it every quarter.

Google "67 273 dipstick". Several options available

A body in and out on drivers side is pre 70 round top radiators. After 70 the SBs got an aluminum water pump with the outlet (lower) on the pass side. Photos of an unmolested 3574658 [FOR SALE] - 72 a body 318 340 22" radiator # 3574658

You could try an easy out. Or a proper sized tap. A pointy awl could bend the tueb in and then with needle nose twist the bent in part like a spam can opener. Do your best to not let it drop into the oil pan

That worked really well. If it was me I would cut the post-it note to follow the shape of the logo closer then reshoot it. For small black dots a tooth pick and some paint on a paper plate can fill them in

Try the dedicated ground. Some research suggests that without a ground the 7805 passes it's input voltage. Don't let the gauges peg. You will destroy them.

Assuming it was originally a US car the IBM card will tell you the name of the dealer that sold it. Unless it's a dealer code 17000

I have seen some chemicals soften plastic and then when wiped with a paper towel the towel spreads and smears into the plastic and others that never let the plastic surface become hard ever again. Just be careful

What does it do to the paint? Test it on the textured area on the back side that will be under the dash and not visible. Be sure to check that the surface of plastic does not wipe off.

Did you propperly defeat the internal ivr?

It will depend on what the binder is in the plastic. Do test patches where it will not matter if the plastic disintegrates. Soda blasting or dry ice blasting might work without removing the texture.

You can get an IBM card from Stellantis Historical Chrysler Historical new contact info.

Typically the rubber flex lines are used where there is going to be movement. Like between the body and the rear axle and to each of the front brakes due to turning flexibility needed. I'm not sure how you would plan to go from the body to the axle with hard lines

I would stay away from stainless. Many posts about leaks and hard to seal.

You can unwind the spring like external protector a couple inches. Then with a tubing cutter make a clean cut. Get a double fairing tool kit and some double flare nuts or buy a pre made double flare tube and cut it to get the nuts. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE using the double flare tool to...

Just a thought. If with the engine off, you can press on the pedal and it is firm and does not go down to the floor, AND you can hold it without the pedal sinking over time. Then perhaps the linkages are not matched correctly When the engine is running the booster will pull the pedal down...

You might be able to have a transfer made of the Chrysler logo. Then strip, paint, transfer, and clear over. Or you could try single dots of black in the missing places