Hello everyone. I found the issue which was resulting in me not getting any brake fluid to the rear bleeders in my 1973 roadrunner 340. This hose that connects the brake line under the car to the "T" was clogged. Unfortunately, I could not remove one of the sides by holding one of the nuts and spinning the other. They were very stuck and one of the nuts started to strip. I broke it off and I show a picture of how the brake line is dangling now. The other picture is the hose that was clogged with the fittings on each side. My question is, is there anything I can do to the brake line to be able to get a nut on there and connect it back to the rubber hose? I've never dealt with a brake line like this. I'd hate to have to redo the entire thing now because it's routed nicely and nothing else is clogged. We blew air in one side and it shot out the other. Any help is appreciated, thanks guys!
Rear brake line help
- Thread starter 340 RR
- Start date
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You can unwind the spring like external protector a couple inches.
Then with a tubing cutter make a clean cut.
Get a double fairing tool kit and some double flare nuts or buy a pre made double flare tube and cut it to get the nuts.
PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE using the double flare tool to make good clean flares on scrap tube.
Then put the new end on.
Now the line will be shorter so you will have to find a longer flex hose and or reroute the mounting to fit propperly.
I'm sure you can find YouTube videos on using a double flare tool
Then with a tubing cutter make a clean cut.
Get a double fairing tool kit and some double flare nuts or buy a pre made double flare tube and cut it to get the nuts.
PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE using the double flare tool to make good clean flares on scrap tube.
Then put the new end on.
Now the line will be shorter so you will have to find a longer flex hose and or reroute the mounting to fit propperly.
I'm sure you can find YouTube videos on using a double flare tool
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
You can do what Dana said but I would change the line. Not much money. They sell the bracket as well.
https://www.classicindustries.com/s...p.ds&msclkid=7e5622eb8ea61c3be80f44951f90c8e1
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1973/plymouth/roadrunner/parts/rra7301r.html
https://www.classicindustries.com/s...p.ds&msclkid=7e5622eb8ea61c3be80f44951f90c8e1
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1973/plymouth/roadrunner/parts/rra7301r.html
That line would be in the garbage can if it were mine. No sense penny pinching when it comes to brakes.
Thank you guys for the advice. I have some experience double flaring because I re-did the lines that go from the "T" to each drum wheel cylinder. I just wasn't aware if I could do the same to this line because of the spring like external protector. I would never try to cut costs on brakes or anything critical but it would be such a job to reroute this rear brake line from the front to the rear "T". If I were to buy the line, is this the right one? Thanks guys
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Does this line you need come from the front of the car or from the tee fitting to rear brake cylinder?
The line I need comes from the front of the car and goes to the tee fitting. I replaced and flared the lines that go from the tee fitting to the rear brake cylinders.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
That's the one. There's a cheaper one if you don't want stainless.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Zero chance you should re-use that TUBE. And you should take a very jaundiced look at the rest of the tubing, as well. I recently replace all the brake tubing in my 04 GMC which otherwise is very low rust. The tubing was a mess. I would guess that GM's recent choice of non-protection for the tubing was a factor. Worst looking tubing of any vehicle I've ever owned
The stores have various lengths, which are softer and easy to bend. You can also buy bulk tube various places, likely not locally
The stores have various lengths, which are softer and easy to bend. You can also buy bulk tube various places, likely not locally
I would stay away from stainless. Many posts about leaks and hard to seal.
Get a roll of the newer "copper/nickle" tubing it won't corode like steel tubing, and it double flares easy also'. Make a whole new line.
Dave
Dave
Okay thanks for the additional advice. I will replace that entire line. I already have maybe 3 or 4 feet of the copper/nickel tubing because that is what I used when I replaced the axle housing brake lines but it looks like I'll need more. Do I need to keep that flex hose that connected the brake line to the tee fitting or can I go directly to the tee fitting with the nickle/copper tubing? Thanks everyone
Ditto. Replace all lines that are not new. Get a new T-fitting. Rubber and steel. Brake lines like coolant hoses go bad from the inside out.
Any crud that was in the lines will now be in your calipers and wheel cylinders . Always flush/replace lines BEFORE you connect to new calipers/wheel cylinders or you just contaminate evrything.
Alway use brand new brake fluid from a sealed bottle. Toss all brake fluid that is in a resealed container. Not worth it.
Cheap life insurance.
Any crud that was in the lines will now be in your calipers and wheel cylinders . Always flush/replace lines BEFORE you connect to new calipers/wheel cylinders or you just contaminate evrything.
Alway use brand new brake fluid from a sealed bottle. Toss all brake fluid that is in a resealed container. Not worth it.
Cheap life insurance.
Typically the rubber flex lines are used where there is going to be movement.
Like between the body and the rear axle and to each of the front brakes due to turning flexibility needed.
I'm not sure how you would plan to go from the body to the axle with hard lines
I see, that makes sense. Never dealt with this and I didn't even think about it that way. Thank you
Ask as much as you want .. That's what we are all here for and love to help !
Yes replace the rubber flex line between the body, and the axel housing. Flush everything out before assembly, with brake cleaner, and compressed air.
Dave
Dave
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