Search results for query: *

Really luv the 62s, thnx for pix

Back the four firewall bolts off a coupla turns, so the m/c is kinda loose. Try the pedal. I've had the pushrod to pedal bolt bind. It's a special shouldered bolt, and the whole pushrod/pedal thing has to pivot freely.

Choose the 15/16 bore size option (drop-down) for better line pressures.

You won't get "pedal" till you pump the pistons/pads all the way into full contact with the rotors. All the pads . Then bleed .

In the original post, you mention you " expected more pedal". Do you mean that you expected the pedal to be more higher, or have more braking effect. To get the pedal higher, try adjusting the rear brakes, that's where most "pedal" disappears, poor/no adjustment. More braking effect can be...

The fact one rear brake works indicates pressure is getting to rear. By your description, the pass side brake is working less effectively than the driver's side. I'd be looking at the pass rear to see why it's not working as good as the other. Compare both sides looking for something different...

I still have the car in my Avatar. 10 inch drums. I used to regularly tow a 16ft ski boat full of equipment, 4 folks and a dog, trunk full of camping gear, back and forth over the Rockies, then load the boat full of flats of fruit and bring it all home over the mtns again. No drama .

I think I'd be checking the front calipers to see if the are seized. Try pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper, see if you can get them to move. Mopar had a real issue with plastic caliper pucks/pistons seizing, especially sitting for long periods no use. Good luck.

Adjust the brakes. A lotta pedal travel can be wasted just moving the shoes out to the drum, - then you get "pedal". Adjust the shoes out closer to drum, you get pedal sooner.

If you put in new pads and shoes, you won't get pedal till the 4 front pads are in full contact with the rotor, so that can take a bunch pumping, and if the rear shoes are out of adjustment, it can take a buncha pedal movement/pumps to get un-adjusted shoes out to contact the drums, so no pedal...

Adjust the rear brakes .

Leave the m/c off the studs, pull on the pedal that's now near the floor, it'll pop the rod outta the m/c. Don't pull too far, cuz it'll hit the brake lite switch and knock it outta adjustment . That's one way.

We're it my car, I'd send the w/wood m/cs back, get either the straight bolt on stock cast iron 15/16 master cyl OR his 2 - bolt modern plastic 15/16 M/C from DrDiff, with correct pushrod that won't fall out, and pedal height . https://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html Keep...

Mighty vac is pretty damn good for single person bleeding. Lotta my racecars had that squish, then I'd need help. With no emergency mechanism to move shoes out, might vac solved that. Since vacuum bleeding, pedal at the top every time if you seal the bleeder threads with Teflon tape, to prevent...

And adjust rear brakes .

Bleeders at the top ? All Pads in solid contact with rotors ? Very unusual. Are you closing the bleeder before the pedal is released ?

Another thing to know is that if you don't torque the loose replacement wheel studs in the wobbly hole, before the spot welds, -- they will crack over time/vibration/heat, - and let the stud spin at the worst time. Ask me how many times I know, - towing was part of my business.

If it works good, leave it. The residual valve in the rear brake circuit should be removed or perforated if still there. ( See pix ) If you like the feel, - fine, - if it feels too hard to push, you could go to a smaller bore M/C, still Mopar. If feel the need for another expensive decal, go...

Careful of the paint. Chase the pressure from m/c back. Somethings blocked ?

Are the front caliper pistons metal or composite ? Had a lotta trouble with composite pistons in some cases, and aluminum caliper frames seizing up after sitting .( off-season ).

Nice car, by the way, 440 ? You've certainly researched, and seem to have covered all the bases right down to braided hoses. Good job. 2 thoughts, no personal knowledge, slight chance, there was a pedal assembly with a different ratio pedal, doubt it. The second is the pad composite, curious how...

Is your pedal rock hard and near the top of travel ?

That's kinda my thought, that the spindles are the same as earlier, the transverse torsion bar k-frame is wider . Musing .

I've brazed up a few shoe pads as described, file it flat. New shoes can "fall" over the edge, causing issues . A small relief hasn't caused a problem, it's the heavily worn "taxi/police" hi milers that have a definite "step or shoulder", that needs attn.

If the fronts just " nick" the fender, perhaps consider just adjusting the fender brace, that small rod. Moving it forward or back may move the fender out a bit, or extend the brace a "tad" . You will likely be the only one to know/notice .

If the first inch or more of pedal travel is wasted moving the rear shoes into contact with the drums, due to poor adjustment, - you're 3/4 of the way thru the pedal stroke before you even feel "pedal", never mind apply . just saying . .

Adjust your rear brakes .

The original post was asking about manual, - there's a world of difference, so I wanted to be clear about which sizes of master cylinders you were comparing, and if in fact you were not using power as asked. You might try a 15/16 from drdiff, see what difference you find in performance feel, -...

Thru years of testing, comparing, and replacing, - unless you have a power booster, that M/C would be terrible compared to 15/16 or smaller, in effort, feel, and modulation for a spirited driver. jmexperience Good luck

Image