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On @RustyRatRod advice I went with the #1280 grind. It's .215 / .223 @ .050 and .517 with 1.6 roller rockers. I'm running a PTC 9.5" converter and 3:23 gears, but 3:55's are coming before long. Runs great! I have no complaints. I planned to take it to a local track in Georgia, but...

That's what I did when I swapped to a Magnum. I tore it down to just crank, pistons, and rods. Had them tear it down and hot tank it, polish the crank, new main, rod and came bearings, hone and new rings. I took it from there and finished the build with a reground cam from Oregon Cam...

Yes, the authentic Chrysler starter sound will be gone if you put on a mini starter.

Would be nice to have it kick in at lower rpm's. I remember my factory 273 Commando not kicking in until about 4500. But man was it fun when it did!!

I'm far from an expert but I find that's generally caused by too high of an idle or timing too far advanced.

Sounds like you're on the way to a running engine. Let us know how the start up goes this time!!

As 4spd mentioned, Install plug wires starting at the distributor cap post directly over the rotor and install clockwise from there 18436572.

Hot rodding is fun, ain't it. :D I went with Ken's 1280 grind on RRR's recommendation. But I'm running Edelbrock 2.02 heads so the .517 lift wasn't a concern. I love it. I sent my short block out for hot tank, hone, polish crank, new rings, main, rod, and cam bearings. Then I put it...

Now Dan, did you see the thread about cooling?? No, I put a FlowKooler pump on mine and it stays much cooler than with the A/C pump I was using.

I can try to get a picture of the bellcrank, but it'll have to be from underneath. Too much in the way from the top.

He's seeing the end of the throttle cable locked in by the bolt. Here's mine that still swivels.

If you look at my last picture, you'll see an adjustment there as well. I used both to fine tune when it upshifts. It took a lot of adjusting, test ride, adjusting, test ride, etc until it was where I wanted it. Your seems fine at the carb. Except, some people don't like the solid rod...

Here are some pictures of my 66 Barracuda. I'm still using the old school solid rod (there is one con, and I'm good with the possibility) but it works perfectly.

Check out this very good How-To article by @krazykuda How to ID a Small Block Engine Block:

Wait, What??? I thought that was the way we were supposed to do it... :lol:

I use the regular black in the caulking tube. Easier to get a larger bead.

Yup, pull those gaskets and, like @318willrun mentioned, use 3/8" bead, or 7/16" LOL on the front and back china wall. A little extra on the corners. I like Right Stuff gasket maker.

Thanks Steve @4spdragtop @Ken71Twister I just moved to Fort Walton 2 months ago and just moved to Navarre this weekend. I work on Hurlburt and met a Mopar guy there. I'll ask him if he knows of any good shops around to rebuild your engine.

I went with Oregon Cam Grinding #1280 on the advice of Rob (Rustyratrod). It's perfect for me. Edit: I went with a 110 LSA.

Let me add, I used the original lifters. I bought hardened oil through pushrods for the Edelbrock heads.

I think I had about $300 (regrind and postage to and fro) in sending my 5.9 cam to Oregon Cam Grinding. If you need help deciding on grind, you can even call and the owner Ken will help you decide. At first, I used an electric fuel pump but my grandson with Autism couldn't deal with the...

This! Initially when swapping to a Magnum I ran an electric fuel pump. After having one quit on me I bought the cam snout extension and went back to a mechanical pump. Another reason was to get rid of the pump noise...my Autistic grandson wouldn't ride in it because of the noise. I never...

Pic with headers and a 5.9 Magnum. I switched to Taylor wires since but I'm not near the car to get a current pic.

Yes, Doug's. The driver's side was a blast installing, lol. I had to ding a little to clear the cap on the coupler. Definitely a tight fit. I've thought about installing a heat shield but haven't yet. I also had to ding a little for the driver's side torsion bar. I bought the uncoated...

@Professor Fate. is right on the money with a swap to a dual pot master cylinder. Highly recommend doing it for safety sake. Here's when I did mine in a 66. I now have headers so there is a little more space.

I was planning to get the terminal kit, but never got around to it. I did what @jos51700 does.

You could try drilling out the small terminal, but that's not easily done. I would replace the terminal with one that fits on the stud. Not sure if you have the equipment, but you can probably pick up kit with a wire stripper, and some different size terminals. Also helps to have shrink tubing...

Really great advice above so I won't repeat it. You'll be very happy with a 5.9. Like @TrailBeast I kept the v-belt front end for the old school look. I went with Edelbrock 2.02 heads, Air Gap intake and 650 AVS carb. Also sent my cam to Oregon Cam Grinders for a regrind. 5.9's are...

Here's a great "How-to" by FABO member KrazyKuda. How to ID a Small Block Engine Block:

A loud tick could be an exhaust leak. I've used an 18" long socket extension holding one end towards my ear and the other end on different places of the exhaust manifolds to narrow down where a noise is coming from. Keep far away from the fan and the battery!!!!