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Looking good!

So, finally...picked up the K-frame, done in a miles-deep gloss black finish. Words don't do this justice. The powder coating covers all the inside parts as well as the outside and is strong as an ox. Color me happy!:thumbsup:

One thing to remember...JB Weld is a structural EPOXY. No matter how you slice it, epoxy is not welding or silver soldering. I don't care if your Uncle Tony patched a cracked block with it, it's still just a 2 part epoxy and subject to the same failings of other adhesives. I agree with the idea...

I think they look great! And the Tri-Y's have a good rep among Chevy aficionados. Only thing I can say is run 'em and see how they compare.

Did I miss something? All I saw was a 5 minute cameo of Will shooting primer on a masked-off Demon and the rest of it was spent with Mark at his friend's junkyard.

I agree, and I love the show! In fact, I have the DVR set to record it every week, and I haven't missed an episode, thanks to On Demand (except for the seasons they for some reason don't have available!) I've probably learned more about these cars we love in the last year than in the previous 40...

I see with last night's episode they are starting to slip back into their old habits. I was all hyped up to see them shoot the Demon, but all they did was blow a prime coat on and move on to other stuff. I can get into a build, but I hate it when they give teasers and then leave you hanging.

I got through to them. Once. I was on hold for over 45 minutes.

Rope trick works great. We do it in aviation all the time.

It's critical that you have yourself checked for a detatched retina immediately. If that is not the cause, I can tell you quite a bit about floaters. PM me if you like.

I remember those well.

No worries. There's more than one way to skin a cat, I reckon!

No doubt they work, and likely pretty well on a strip or circle track motor. But for a 50 year old street car that gets the oil changed every 5000 miles or so...and you hope to get 100k out of...I would still recommend bushed rods.

How often are those engines torn down, though?

If you're going .030 over you might want to have it ultrasonic checked depending on cost.

It might "work", but then you have no sacrificial metal. Wear occurs on either the rod or the pin. Or both. Something has to give, and you should prefer to have it be the inexpensive bushing that is easily replaced. If operating on a tight budget I'd look for a decent set of forged 340 rods. If...

OK, so made an "executive decision". It's still too cold to do any parts painting in the garage, too cold to open the windows for ventilation if I paint in the house. So I called the local powder coat shop and asked them about powder coating my now-cleaned-and-ready K frame. Yes, they can do it...

You are hammering this thing! Keep the ball in play!

Thanks for sharing that, Rusty!

The closer to 100% equal weight, the better off you are. It's that simple. Weight matching by playing mix-n-match is free, so why not?

I would agree with you, but the cost estimate to have my rods resized, reconditioned and fitted for ARP hardware was $20.00 less than new Eagle rods.

Have you tried Don's Auto in Kenosha? They are working my 340 now.

Right. Plus, that car was a Mr. Norm's and had 12.5:1 TRW's in it when I got it. No telling if they changed out the crank at that point, but not likely, as they would have had to swap damper, timing cover and radiator at the same time.

I don't recall. That car was totaled almost 50 years ago. IIRC I'm thinking it was a late '72 model.

My original 340 Duster was a 3 speed manual '72. It came with a cast crank. Could the forged cranks have been restricted to 4-speed only and not all manual trans?

Actually, surface rust should wipe off with an oily rag. These things are forged and quite strong.

One thing you can do before you deliver your parts to be balanced; weigh all 8 pistons and mark them with indelible marker on the crown. Do the same with the rods. Try to average them out to the closest mean weight and number the pistons (with marker) to match the rod numbers.

That's what they make Scotch Brite for, John...

Yes. I had them cc-checked by the same shop several years prior. EDIT: Just checked my notes and it appears the shop only cc'd one chamber on one head. However, the first time I had this engine built, I paid to have the heads cc'd, so I can generalize that they "should" all be within 1cc of...

I HIGHLY recommend pricing out new forged rods before you send out for balancing. If you choose to use new ARP bolts you will have to have the rod and cap bolt bores bored oversize. That and reconditioning the rods is gonna put you a stone's throw from the cost of new rods. The thought of using...