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Early A still installed, 67/72 on the floor. Early A front and rear under the bench.

Better get under there and pre lube those adjuster bolts!!

But but....they’re from a 340 Duster or Demon, they won’t work on my slant 6 Valiant.

You know I’m kidding, right?

One more “posi” outta youse guys and you’re all going to Suregrip Jail!!

Even the best factory bars are only .870, the 1” bars joe mentioned far outperform the factory bars, unless you happen onto a set of factory 892/893 bars for super cheap, I would go with the bars joe mentioned!

True, the sway bar tabs, if so equipped, are mounted in a different location, but are the same tab! The 72 and earlier sway bar mounts under the K frame, and as such the tabs are mounted on the bottom of the LCA. The 73 and later sway bar goes thru the web of the K frame and puts the tabs at the...

The LCA’s are the same, no difference!

I run SS springs on Nella’s car, first because the original springs were worn out and sagging, and second because they were free. They were under a parts car I bought, still had the tags on them and had never been on the street. Yes, the ride height is a little high, and I would prefer a little...

Yes, the strut rods are the same between 73-74 cars. They are slightly different in length from the 72 and back cars tho, and the 73 and up struts use a coarse thread on the LCA side, whereas the 72 and earlier ones have fine threads there! You should be fine using them from either 73 or 74

I do! Send me your address and I'll send you one of each!

My 66 is manual, but it's such a light car, even the bride doesn't complain! I like the feel of the road with manual, you don't get that with power!

Same!

Just a note here, if you are using poly bushings instead of the OE rubber, the metal sleeve in the LCA needs to stay in place, which saves a little time and a lot of aggravation!! Be careful when using a press to push out the bushings in the UCA, you can bend or twist the entire arm!!

Except 67, which is a bolt thru like the 66 and earlier, but uses a different idler arm than any other year!!

Also should be mentioned that the 67 K frame uses a one year only idler arm, so it's wise to steer clear of those, unless you like paying at least triple the price for a simple idler arm!!

You can also apply a little pressure to the coupler once the pin is out by tapping a pickle fork in between the coupler and the gearbox! It doesn't need to be slammed in there, just enough to apply force to the coupler while you pull the steering column out!

Manual column has a longer shaft sticking out of the bottom! Maybe 6 inches as opposed to about 3 for a power column!

That's the stuff

I use a silicone based lube, much like the caliper grease that you get in the small tubes! It keeps them from seizing in the spring or in the pin! They do suggest using it for poly bushings as well!

Yay for this!!!^^^^

Earlier style with cast iron water pump!

Later style with aluminum water pump!!

Which water pump are you running?? The brackets are water pump specific, so if you have an aluminum water pump, you need the brackets for a car running that pump, and such if you have a cast iron pump! They are different!!

Message me your address and I'll send you a nut and a washer!

They'll work just fine for just using them as leaf springs! If you're going racing, it would be a wise choice to use the 002/003 setup, but otherwise they will work just fine!

The 002 spring has a stronger arch, and is used on the passenger side! Sounds like they wimped out on the real reason to have SS springs in the first place!!

The different arch in the springs has nothing to do with the driver being in the car! It is simply because of the way the power is applied to the drivetrain, and that has everything to do with the rotation of the drivetrain and the torque it puts on the rear end, which is the last component in...

I don't know exactly what every color means, but I do know that a pink swatch means that the axle is made with steel of a high nitride composition, and used in HD applications! I have a set here with yellow paint!!

You will not get the front pivot bolt out, no matter what you do! It is trapped in and the front hangar must be dropped! As stated above, removing the hangers is way easier than trying to deal with old frozen rusty parts under the car! Everything will need to be cleaned and greased, and new...