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Waaaaay cheaper. Had a 66 ranchero that I put a Hurst 3 speed on the floor because of the same issue. A lot more fun to drive too.:D I think it was about 80 bucks and 1.5 hrs to install and get adjusted right.

I'm with you on this one. Especially since it's going to be running in a cold climate.

Like I said "a couple of fingers on it" :D Glad it worked out for you as well.

I use my left hand while squatting outside the door and reach a few fingers right up the middle from underneath. There is an opening in the column bracket on the Dart right below where the cable goes on the speedo head, so I suspect Duster is the same.

The points on the syncro teeth are not nearly as important as the distance between those and the steel gear. That looks ok to me from what I can see. Also remember that the end of the input shaft is supported by the pilot bearing when installed, so that much play in the end of the shaft when not...

Sounds like backwards alright.

Yep, some had them and some didn't for some reason, but like Del I always took them off. I don't even like the neutral safety switches on my cars, but do have one on the Dart. Ever stomp the gas and have a car pop back through the carb and die in traffic? Without the switches you can just turn...

Nice. :D

No, there is no such thing as a neutral safety switch on a stick. They are called a clutch safety switch on sticks obviously, but I think we all just kind of let it go because we knew what he was talking about.

A multi meter or a test light would tell you if the switch grounds to it's bracket. If it does, then you know it's made to work that way.

Or what is actually going on because we have not gotten a clear answer yet. So is it hard to shift into every gear and grinds in reverse? If so, it could be about any of the things posted above. In a car that hasn't been messed with by a bunch of people it usually is caused by a misadjusted or...

What problems are you having?

It'll weld just fine. Take it out of the mechanism and grind about 1/8 taper to the ends of both sides of both pieces. Wire wheel the two pieces clean at least a half inch back from the weld area and fill that groove between the two pieces with a good hot weld that burns in to both and grind it...

Refer back to post 3 :D Gotta commend you on the "No Fear" approach.

Tackle a big block right out of the gate huh? :D

Don't see one on their site, just the online store. Also did an internet search for "Brewers Performance Catalog" and came up empty.

Most shifters have a centering hole through the levers that the linkage rods connect to. That's probably all it is. Note where it says 1/4 inch Dia rod. You put the 1/4 Dia rod through all the levers and then adjust each linkage rod so that each lever on the trans is centered with no bind.

Sure oil temp can have an effect, but it shouldn't stop it from going into gear but just feel more sluggish or tighter. If the lever moves to the side and slightly toward the gear you want but won't go in the problem is in the trans. If the lever won't move to the side to get over where you can...

There is a difference between not going into a gear and the linkage not letting you get to it. Do you know how to tell?

Any gear, any time, at any speed, and any RPM weather it's the right thing or not it should go into it. :D This is what they are supposed to do.

They are out there and you could even have a spare with this one. Oilite Bushing Bronze New 3/4 id x 1 od x 1 1/2 brass bearing Sleeve Bush B1 | eBay

If you have the standard Z bar you would make the bottom end a slotted design instead of just a hole. That way you could adjust the geometry any time you wanted. Basically you could change how much the TO bearing fork moved compared to how much you pushed the pedal down. I could do it, but I'm...

Oooh, right where I like em. :D Sounds normal for a new clutch to me, but if it bugs you that much change your linkage geometry so the pedal travels more with less travel at the fork. The only real problem with that is when the clutch wears and the disengagement point gets lower and lower on the...

Yep, easy as can be. Just take a look at the pilot and the front bearing of the trans to make sure something there isn't causing the leak.

I'd be more concerned about the tip of that shaft if that's wear pits and not junk on it. Slider ring hub looks fine, but your critical parts are the condition of the teeth on the gears and syncros and if there is any play between the gears and shaft they run on. (like twisting it back and forth...

Like already mentioned, if it's activated by the brake pedal it is the brakelight switch (and is what it looks like). If it's activated by the clutch pedal then it is being used as a clutch safety switch, and is what keeps the starter from turning the engine over unless the clutch is depressed...

Oh I know they work, it's just I got so used to the easier to handle ones I guess.

I was wondering about that when I posted, and if I would have looked it up first I would have seen that. :D

Looks like you have one four speed cover and one 3 speed cover, so if you have a 4 speed trans only the top cover is possible for it. Think about it, one lever for 1st and 2nd, one for 3rd and 4th so where is the reverse stuff on the bottom cover if it's supposed to be for a four speed?

Yep, the input to output shaft has some big ol needle bearings, as does the counter shaft on each end but a little smaller (some transmissions have two sets on each end of the counter gear) and it is a little freaky when you see them all pour out into the bottom of the case for the first time...