Search results for query: Belt sander

...for that. However you install it, it needs clearance for the shaft. I go for .0025-.004". A bit of grease inside before the trans install. Lol, way back, for an auto crank, I "turned" down the OD of a standard pilot bushing using a 3/4" shaft, a belt sander fixed in a vise, and a 0-1"...

...single piece underneath, so it's 1 1/2" thick. Countersunk phillips head screws and wood dough to fill on the table top itself. Once the belt sander got it mostly on the same plain I hand sanded it to raise harder parts of the plywood to give it more texture. No sanding block, just fingers to...

Sand them down.

...and cause you all kinds of sealing woes. You can also use an old junk head to bolt it to. The idea is to keep it flat and true throughout the repair process; because if you warp it, you need to have the mating surface re-flattened either by surface grinding or on a large table/belt sander.

...leak after leak tells me the housing isn't flat or the sealing surface on the intake isn't either. You can run the t stat housing over a belt sander to true it up. The intake not so much. That would have to be machined. I 100% agree with @Oldmanmopar. Turn the housing over, put the t stat in...

And you would have never done that with a belt sander. Nice Job.

I said it one time. Got run over like a freight train. Since it's you that asked, Kevin, I'm showing you this. The belt sander is the damned quickest way to get the job done. No, I haven't done half a million, but I've done enough using the bullshit tools shown so far, and unless I cannot get...

THe OP needs to learn that you don't use a drill press as a replacement for a boring bar or a Bridgeport mill. You don't use a belt sander to mill heads and deck blocks and you don't use a bench grinder to grind valves. Those are all machining operations and shoulld be done with specifically...

It works good. I like it even when I plan on reusing the panel. The belt is narrow. Unless you're a drunken redneck hillbilly, you can keep it controlled and limited to one area.

That would take a really good, flat big belt sander table and no way would it hurt with a nice fine grit. I could only get the Hooker Super Comps to seal with one piece stock style gaskets and of course, they would burn out once a year. No regular header gasket would seal. I'm looking forward to...

I bought a Sears belt sander almost specifically for this job years ago. I’ve showed pictures before how I mark every rocker and every hold down for position. I would remove material from the sides of the hold downs and shim as needed to center up each and every rocker. Only after I was...

Ok makes since. I'm going to have a friend weld it he's pretty good welder. I'll mention it thanks for the tip

I have made handmade bits, spurs. Gas welded and brazed. I did all my hot work with just a torch. The right belt sander is good. What is really cool is the guys that can forge a "one piece" spur and out of a Model A axle. They are artists and a dying breed. They aren't cheap...

Lol I like to have an arsenal of options. So thank you for the belt sander idea tbh I didn't understand it at all till I watched that video just now!

I was going just to just run them on a belt sander and get them even. Probably overkill, but it won't hurt.

And that works great when your separating panels and discarding one of them. If your trying to save both pieces a Blair cutter works the best.

Belt sander! :rofl:

...the powers washer and scrapes chisels and blasts the deck. It had that decksaver stuff on it and was off in sheets. Now if it ever dries out I'll hit the bad spots with a belt sander and get a good coat of stain down. Still need to sand the rails. One side needs to be pulled off and rebuilt

Sorry...Can't Like That !!!!

...not worth saving and a lot of them I did pull out of the crushing yard. Years ago I did cut a few E bodies and a couple B bodies that now I probably wouldn't. I tried a belt sander and it just didn't work for what I was doing. If I was removing a junk pan to install a new then it would be fine.

Yea!!! Now the fun (grinding down those plug welds) begins. I used a 3/8" x 14" (I think X 14"?) air belt sander that works pretty good, versus using a cut off wheel or grinder, helps reduce grinding other than welds... HF has em, but get this - "not the belts"??? I got 3M blue belts from a...

Sounds like way too much fun. You’ll probably need to spread it out over a couple weeks. :D

I'm certain that he's trying to get them flat. You won't get there using a belt sander.

I completely agree that the little belt sander isn't necessary, and if there's anybody that can relate to not bein able to afford something, that's me. But harbor freight has one for 25 bucks. Next time I go to Macon, I'm gettin one. If you decide to, I can tell you from using one to get the 80...

...but it takes time. If you do it yourself and your time isn't worth anything then go for it. But, in addition to sanding the beams with a belt sander, they still should be sized with new bolts and balanced. At machine shop labor rates per hour you can buy a set of new rods for less." Yeah...

...the stock rods but it takes time. If you do it yourself and your time isn't worth anything then go for it. But, in addition to sanding the beams with a belt sander, they still should be sized with new bolts and balanced. At machine shop labor rates per hour you can buy a set of new rods for less.

Find the lightest rod end and balance the rest to it. Switch ends and do the same. Do you have a fixture and scale? A narrow belt sander does a nice job.

I am ready to start painting my 71 Duster. I am reading the data sheets and have a question. When I was glancing at different pages, I saw that on the Eastwood website, it said WAIT 5 DAYS FOR THE PRIMER TO DRY BEFORE BLOCK SANDING. That is the only place I have ever seen that. The page was...

Lol, I'd be lying if I said the gears weren't turning in that direction.