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....008 from what i was told by comp (yes they know my cam/lifter setup...they recommended it to me.) i was also told by keith black not to exceed 32* total with those pistons. im still learning and i trust real-world experience more than engineers though. just trying to figure it out, i will...

forgot to mention its a 4spd car if that makes a difference

...because if i touch the throttle the accelerator pump squirts and it revs up for a couple seconds then starts to die again. timing was at about 22-25* at 2000 rpm and plugs looked new after a half hr breaking in the cam. the carb is from a fellow member. its a holley 750 dp with mechanical...

ok, thanks. i think ill call arp and see what they say about it as well

anyone? im finally putting the car together this weekend just looking for a quick yes/no. i know its probably a stupid question but i couldnt find anything after searching this and other forums. i have arp bolts, i think they should be 80 ft/lbs? sound right?

is the torque different between steel and aluminum flywheels? i dont think it would be but im switching to aluminum and just wanted to be sure. thanks

ill do some checking...thanks guys!

thanks for the response, i hope thats not the case for me...i was just hoping someone put one of these things on a stock accessory system and that there was a bolt on pulley to make it work.

i know that this is an old thread but i just got to this point on my build and would really appreciate a follow up. i have a '72 318 with power steering so i have a two groove crank pulley. does anyone know of a pulley i can get that will work with my genuine fluidampr?? i measured roughly and...

just a heads up on the RHS LA-X heads (standard la intake works but need magnum head bolts), not sure if its been covered elsewhere but im putting a pair on my 318 with comp 978 springs and i need to get special rockers to clear the retainers. supposedly the rockers are designed for this head...

maybe you guys already covered this buy i had the same issue with my holley 650 and just swapped secondary springs and it took care of it. im assuming this is a vac sec carb

moper you got me worried now...lol. is my setup doing more harm than good right now? please let me know what you think. i blocked off oil from the right galley to the #1 main so if the crossover doesnt work that bearing is toast. i want this thing to live...

...the left as it crosses over through the tube. this way the main is the end of the line and gets more oil. will my current setup flow enough to not starve that main? wish i would've known about the angles but all the pics ive seen of crossovers where strait with 90* fittings, thanks for the help

block is already being machined so too late on that :oops: as for the oil pan i have a kevko stock location 5 qt so total capacity will be 6 and i plan to run a 3 qt oil accumulator on top of that. hopefully she doesnt starve!

thanks guys, i cant go to a roller cam although i really want to. im thinking that i will just keep the rpm down to 7000 just to be safe. i have that cam because that is what one of their techs recommended to me. i agree it seems a little aggressive for hyd flat but thats what an "expert" said i...

first off, thanks for all the help lots of you have already given me. im wrapping up my build and just have a few loose ends to figure out. build is 318 stock stroke forged crank, scat 4340 i beams with ARP bolts, kb 167 pistons, 9.7:1 cr (.039 quench) with RHS LA-X heads fully ported, 2.02...

...spend a long time between 5000 and 7500 rpm. i live 10 miles from road america so i cant waste it lol. so right now the braided line is in with 90* fittings just like the one someone posted on page 7 of Guitar Jones's oiling mod sticky. so you guys are saying a hard line will clear for sure...

i have an eddy air gap and i didnt realize that they sit down so far in the lifter valley. the problem is i already have a braided stainless lifter galley crossover tube installed and it hits the bottom of the intake. is there such a thing as an easy fix? id rather not cut up a new intake and...

heads sold have intake carb cam and rotating assembly still, all for $350 free shipping or make offers on what you want

i would sell the carb and intake for $200 free shipping. carb has choke horn cut off but always ran great for me, and it gets pretty cold around here

im guessing with a 2 barrel still on it not much has been done to the heads but its really easy to tell if its been gasket matched and worked over. also measure the valves, stock is 1.78 and 1.5. cam is more complicated. you could just measure the lobe and multiply by 1.5 to get valve lift but...

you guys were right i put -5 in figuring negative would be reliefs. anyway now i get 9.7 static with a .039 gasket. sounds good for 93 oct correct? just wanna be totally sure before it goes together. thanks for the responses

...some RHS LA-X heads for it (62cc closed chamber w/ lots of quench but cast iron) my cam is a XE285HL per comps recommendation. int closes 68* ABDC. it has .545 lift and 241/247 dur @ .050. i ran all the numbers and with a .051 thick gasket my static compression is 10.7 and dynamic is 8.7...

im looking for a holley 750 DP and eddy rpm air gap manifold for small block. i would trade everything i have in the listing for this combo. also i will sell everything in the listing (rotating assembly, heads, cam, intake, carb) and even throw in a good used balancer off the engine for $500...

alright thanks, ill get the right adapters and hopefully get it out to the machine shop tomorrow

im redoing my 318 and have useable parts for sale. pair of open chamber small port heads, no performance to be had but they had a valve job done 3500 miles ago and i havent had any issues with them. $350 and I PAY SHIPPING thats a lot on these things!! complete stock 1972 rotating assembly...

do i need 3/8 NPT or could i get away with 1/4 NPT to -6 AN adapter? if so i could fit it in the traditional place i think

if you still need a pan and pickup i have them out of my '72 duster with baffle welded in it, very important upgrade for stock pan. i also have a pair of open chamber heads with 3500 miles on valve job. ill sell it cheap to try and help you out if you need the stuff...

im building my 318 up and putting the lifter crossover tube in it. i did all the other mods but was just wondering if it was absolutely critical which way the tube went as long as it linked the two gallies together. all the pics ive seen go from back of right galley to front of left. i have 3/8...

yeah, im figuring totals and it will be over. but if i need to save a little more and do it right i will. i appreciate all your input. thanks for giving me a sense of direction!