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Hahaha!

Interesting indeed....how do you plan to drive the front pump?

Most 7 1/4s are marginal behind a slant

Fun street car? 3:55

If you paid up to have mike build you a engine, save up and have a converter built to alow the engine to perform as it should. Lenny at ultimate converter concepts in NC is a good choice, as well as dynamic

Dont waste your money on a off the shelf converter, spend a little extra and have it built for your application.

No problem if you have it narrowed and buy new axles

Good suggestion, I have delt with him in the past, good guy!

Buy a sure grip unit of your choice, (i prefer the old style clutch type) used, or spring for one of the new units. If the gears and bearings spin nice, (99% of the time they do) put new carrier bearings on there, measure the backlash on the gear (do a search, its simple) then remove the open...

I was just going by what you wrote yourself.

So your trying to say you adjusted the pinion angle and that fixed your vibration that was there when the car wasn't moving?

I have a buddy who had a street/strip 73 duster with a eddyhead 340, 150 shot of NOS, 3:91 gears and adapters to go SBP to BBP, and I cringed everytime he made a pass, it would run 6:80 1/8th mile which is probally 10:90 in the 1/4, never had a problem.......

Ummmmmm, did someone mention that in post #2??? Hope you get it sorted out...

Maybe something vibrating or rubbing, like exhaust or something? just a thought......

Drag cars often turn RPMs into the 8k range and run steel driveshafts, i would probally be more interested in the 0 degree at the tailshaft of the trans. Are you saying that the driveshaft and yoke are perfectly inline? as in 0 degree?

That is hogwash, the caps break because the ring gear is being pushed away from the pinion. It happens on 742 cases also, and those DONT use a crush sleave. The crush sleave sets pinion bearing preload, has nothing to do with cap breakage.

The INNER seals keep gear oil out of the brakes, AND wheel bearings. The wheel bearings are packed with grease, NOT lubricated by gear oil. Those outer gaskets just keep grease in the bearing, and dust out. Replace the inner seals.

I had a set of those axles, same issue. Too short for a A body housing. Used strange the next go around, no more issues.

Trust me, its a "A" body housing. Most of those charts are misleading, or in a lot of cases, dead wrong.

That's a "A" body housing

I would also like to ad, those things are said to be HUGE as far as the power they suck up...(518s)

I don't know what YOUR duster weighs, but I had my white 70 duster on the scales yesterday. It is all steel, full bench seat column shift, nothing removed, has heat wipers ect. Engine is a 410 with edelbrock heads, manual steering, BBP disk brakes, 727 and a 8 3/4 with BBP axles, and weld...

A body bare HOUSINGS are 52 5/8, those rear end charts floating around the net are mostly wrong.

If it is small bolt pattern, it could have only came from a A body.

More than one way to skin a cat I would say! I never thought about the number of turns trough the spider gears and figuring it that way........ sounds reasonable.

This is wrong, you need to turn both tires at the SAME TIME, 1 revolution (might require a helper) and count the driveshaft rotation.

The 8 1/4 rear became the std rear axle on 73 and up 340/360 A bodies. Not rare at all, and allways cheaper than a 8 3/4.

I disagree with the statement concerning the "X" casting........ the "X" is cast into the "741" housings and has nothing to do with sure grip or not..... Any of the housings could have a suregrip, it was a paint splotch and a tag that signified that.

No problem, we are all just trying to help......

I was quoting the OP