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test voltage at the battery at idle and again with the lights on, should be above 12.6 volts all the time, as far as the left light being solid I would say you have a light out on the left. the dim headlights could be a bad switch, bad headlights (I was told sealed beam start to loose brightness...

with my experince with the 66 valiant, not shutting off is a grounding issue, mine would go all the time until I took the battery cable off. I cleaned up where the switch grounds to the dash pannel and it didn't help so I ran another ground and it solved the problem, no Idea why it started it...

carquest premium wires are good and there black with white writing. around $30, just changed out for NAPA lifetime ones though because I like blue :cool:

I rewired the 66 valiant with a very good harness from a 79 dodge truck, used most of it, and surprisingly was pretty simple. just had to unclip the terminals from the 79 harness at the bulkhead connector and clip them into the valiant connector. but I also like wiring jobs too

in my experience all mopar products need a good ground, I had a stock 318 once in a truck that I painted the engine in and when I went to start it the cables got so hot they would smoke, cleaning the paint off under the ground helped and I have remembered that since. it could very well be...

ahh now we hit the trouble area!, the engine needs to be hooked to a negative battery cable in my experince to work good, if this is not possible at least clean the grounding spot and add a ground cable from engine to frame (thick) to replace the one suppost to be hooked from engine to battery...

I think NAPA has the same ones then cause theres is dark blue heres an article I found on how to test distributors if its any help to anyone here got NO spark??? grab your digital volt meter... set it to 2K ohms.. disconnect the 2 wire plug at the distributer. you should have around...

X2 jumping power to the positive side of the ballast resistor NOT the coil (will fry coil) will make the car run but it wont charge due to no power being feed to alternator

I bought one of NAPA's blue electronic boxes and had problems out of the box, mind you there only $30 and the second one I bought works good and is going on the second summer! I would buy one of these and see if that fixes it after all there only $30 and it may make your car run again

check for a draw on the battery with the key off, unhook the postive cable from the battery. use a multimeter hooked to the positive post on the battery and the negative multimeter lead hooked to the postive battery cable with the key off, set multimeter to the amps setting. There should be...

uses a small alen wrench to remove the knob, turn the switch till its visible or look around the switch knob till you find it

it just pulls off

aren't these the style bracets you can use the new higher output denso altenator with? I seen someone on here using the same ones with there denso alt., the denso is almost a bolt in altenator and you can use an external voltage regulator

it may not be as cheap as you think! I priced one for my neighbors tractor (new) and they were well over $100 but to my surprise a mopar one was a little cheaper, but it needed the external regulator, insted my neighbor found a rebuild GM one for $30 personally I don't like them

from what I found they are almost identical in shape and will work they are just a lighter duty bulb and I also found that a 1157 will have a brass bottom, the 2057 should have a metal bottom, also the wattage is different, it may cause your tail lights to look like brake lights or be very dim...

factory flat one from an M body car will work, such as a diplomat of fifth avenue I belive that is same as the style as your looking for

the relay isn't the problem, he has the gauge cluster removed and the ammeter isn't completing the circuit as all positive power runs through this before anything else inside the car gets power, had one crap out on me on the side of the road:angry7:

yeah there the same set up, I used a 1979 dodge d150 complete under hood wiring harness on the 66 valiant it fits to a T . but thats a little more than some people want to get themselves into

yes the dodge trucks never had to meet the same regulations in the 70's and early 80's like the passenger cars did hense the electronic ignition. the ignition box will work also, if you call a parts place just ask for parts for a 76-85 dodge d150 and then go from there, you should change the...

pick up a distributor from a dodge truck from the years of 1976 or so up to 1985 that way your guaranteed the distributor you want trucks come factory without lean burn, infact the ones from napa work nicely and there only around $60