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Okay I got a question for you. Do you have the single piston calipers or 4 piston calipers? The single would mean you (should) have the same bolt pattern front and rear 5x4.5. If you have the 4 piston caliper it would mean you have the 5x4 bolt pattern. I ask this because the 8.25 rear only came...

2.76 and 5.13(?) if I'm not mistaken.

So if; (1) I just go get the 8.25 and steal me a limited slip and disc setup, would that improve anything behind a slant? Besides not worrying about breaking the thing not much (also wayyyyyyyyy easier to find parts for). The 8.25 housing you need/want comes from an A Body and nothing else. The...

Do what you think is right but there isn't any chance in hell I'd have axles redirlled to a different bolt pattern. Way not just call up dr. diff and order a set or replacement axles? They aren't super expensive and a car better choice than a re-drill in my opinion!

Yes there is a bolt in A Body 8.25 rear. You can find them in the 73+ BBP cars. A neat trick is with the 8.25 rear is you can quite easily install rear disc brakes. Just find a 96 and older Jeep Grand Cherokee and take the rear disc brake setup of and it will be a direct bolt in to the A Body...

Look at the GM 200R4. Mopar To Ya has a thread on installing one in his dart.

You're probably looking for a 727 for a truck.

There is also a Dana 60, a ford 9" or 8.8 rear as well. Just sayin.

It will be either a 7.25 or 8.25 rear. If I'm not mistaken by 76 the 8.25 was the only factory option (please correct me if I'm wrong on that guys). If you two and picture of the rear end cover, we can tell you what/which rear you have. If it's a 7.25, start looking for an a body 8.25 now.

Yes it is very wise to push a 7.25 rear...right into a scrap pile. Unless want a tow bill, wait till you finish your 8.75 rear. But if you have to do it, do a burnout in front of your house. This way when it blows up, you're a lot closer to home and won't have to tow it but you'll still be...

Holy ****! That first gear ratio is gonna make first gear about as useless as dog pop. Even with 2.45 rear gear ratio yikes. Another thing you have to consider is will it even fit the car. You might have to do major tunnel surgery in order for it to work/ fit. Another option (if the car was...

This might have what you're looking for. http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/cart.cgi?db=mddata.txt&category=bellhousing&search=Mopar&merchant=moderndriveline

Try wilcap to get adaptor from block to GM bellhousing. Using an adaptor is how Mopar To Ya got use a GM 200R4 into his dart.

Rusty Rat Rod has a rebuild thread how to in tech section. Might wanna check that out, just sayin.

True but if the pinion seal goes just saying.

Just image if you already had an overdrive transmission and put a gear vendors unit on that! Talk about mileage/low Rpms.

You're going into the 489 ditch that crush sleeve and put a solid sleeve in it. Best upgrade a 489 can have.

That case just fix the rear and order the rim that fits and gives/takes up the most of the wheel well.

Why would you wanna shorten the housing? Are you building a drag car? Have you narrowed the sub frame and installed have rear tubs for super wide tires? If not pop that center section out, align the splines, reinstall center section, install axles. If axles are damaged order some new ones up...

That is true, however, if he pulls the rear cover off he can take a look inside to see if anything wrong.

Just save yourself time and a big *** headache by calling Dr Diff. He can set you up with the. 5x4.5 axle in the correct length for your needs as well as ring and pinion, brakes (drum or disc).

If the rear end has something wrong and is anything other than a simple gasket/seal I'd junk that crap and replace it with an 8.75 or 8.25 rear.

It has a removable rear cover. Pop that cover off and take a look inside. It's one gasket and 2 quarts of 80-90 weight oil.

If your brakes are not locking up, maybe an axle seal/bearing went bad? What does your tire look like? Any signs of rubbing?

First I'd change the rear no question about it. Second understand that the 8.75 rear from an a body will be a small bolt pattern (which is the same as your front 5x4), unless someone swapped them/re-drilled them. Now if you don't mind the big bolt pattern a b body 8.75 it fit as well but you'll...

The crush/solid sleeve provides the preload on the bearing. If you torque the crush sleeve to much you completely destroy it and have to replace/start all over. The solid doesn't do this and once you have the correct spacing/preload you can change a pinion seal and retorque with no problem, not...

Go with the truetrac and DO NOT forget to use a solid sleeve instead of that crush sleeve. You can get the solid sleeve from Dr. Diff.

Hook it up and try to start the car in gear. If it fires up the switch is bad (that or you didn't wire it up right).

First pick the one/kind you want (cone, clutch, etc). The eaton true trac is a good one as well then It's install time. What center section to you have (741, 742 or 489)?

Do the burnout in front of your house. That way when the rear blows up you can push right into the driveway to swap it for 8.25/8.75/Dana 60 (pick your poison).