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Here in Indiana, in the warm weather months, the e85 at my local gas station hovers around 87%. I only drive my car in the warm months, but I have been told that the ratio can/does drop significantly when the weather gets colder (like to 60-70%). The nice thing is, e85 is pretty forgiving on...

Methanol is corrosive..... e85 (ethanol & gasoline), not so much. I agree, make a racing budget for the year and stick with it. Once in a while I fail at this, but usually I make it work. I just like that using a cheaper fuel means my budget goes farther....and its a long term solution to...

One thing I keep seeing in these posts is 10+ dollars per gallon for race gas. FYI (for anyone that has this near them), converting your carb (and car) to e85 will literally pay for itself in 1 race season (assuming you are a regular racer). I did this years ago, and it literally paid for...

Depending on the solid roller spring pressures you will be using, you may not need anything bigger than a good 5/16 wall push rod. I would consult Smith Brothers with your specs to see if it is needed/required. I say that because you may not need to clearance the heads with a 5/16 push rod (I...

I have never had a track get that granular on my car. I guess it depends on where you race. When I raced at Bandimere in Colorado years ago, they would check my car over with a fine tooth comb....Some of the tracks here in Indiana literally don't even tech the cars, which makes me a little...

That's clean....WAY better than the Home Depot job I did on mine, lol.

Also to note, if you spin your alternator faster with a smaller pulley it will cost you some power....if you are good with that then that may be a solution for you.

I bought an alternator from Autozone back in 1993 with a lifetime guarantee...29 years later (having used that lifetime guarantee 5+ times) it is still what I use. I have never had battery charging problems when racing, so I assume it is working just fine.

Scat I-beams...they are inexpensive, light weight, and can handle quite a bit of HP (I believe they are rated for 650hp), and they come with ARP rod bolts. I have them in my low 10 second car and they work just fine.

Sorry, Sam, I was not inferring that you 2 were bickering (I honestly forgot about your race, you guys are chill)....There were others that crossed my mind when I wrote that.

I didn't see the radio button at the top for "It will never happen"... that would be my pick. Not to be a total downer, but I have yet to see ANY of these I'm going to race so and so things happen.....they typically just turn in 20+ pages of bickering and no racing.....hopefully this one is...

I'm going to say Low 10's....possibly better with good air. Your combo looks like it will be putting out about the same power as my 408, except your truck is a little lighter and you are running a 904, which is going to be faster than my 727 any day. Once the combo is sorted out, that thing...

Gorgeous car!:thumbsup:

I would put the Airgap on the 360, leave the 416 with the M1 (since you have it), and put a Victor on the 340 since it is mostly strip. If money is a problem then sell the 6pack to fund the Victor (personally I would put a Victor on the 416 too, if money was not an issue). Edit: I use a...

Hey Brooks, I think you and Rumble are saying the same thing, there was just a key word missing from your post. Salt will lower the temperature of ICE water (not plain water). I'm assuming that was what you meant, it just didn't make it through the keyboard into your post.:thumbsup: Rumble is...

I have used a summit fuel cell, steel mesh fuel filter, and hose fittings (they all work fine)....but all my engine/suspension components are "name brand". I'm just too picky and have trust issues I guess, lol.

Sorry, but this statement is very misleading. Nitrous oxide actually takes part in the combustion reaction, it is not just cooling (although that is an added benefit at about -127°F). I forget the exact temp, but somewhere around 570°F the nitrous molecule breaks down, releasing the oxygen...

^^^^This 100%.....That plus a 3500 converter and wanting to run 9's.....Not exactly what I would call optimal or realistic. A good converter (with a trans cooler) will not fry your transmission driving around town. For what its worth, I drive my low 10 second car with an 8" ~5200 RPM...

My Barracuda went 12.4 with a 360 and the old MP 292/509 cam. I switched to a comp 292 high lift hydraulic flat tappet (something like 250/257 @ 0.05 and ~0.575 lift if I recall correctly).....that thing ate a lobe just after/or during the break in process and destroyed the poor 360....After...

I don't have the part number you are looking for, but I'll share my experience with my ATI super damper. When I purchased mine I decided to go with a small block Chevy pulley pattern, thinking I would have a LOT more choices in pulleys to get it just right (this is what my friends talked me...

Agreed, I don't like wasting money either...and more than likely you will be fine at your power level....but when you look at the cost of your engine AND trans, what's another couple hundred bucks on a $8,000 - $10,000 set up (just guessing on price)? I mention the trans because if the crank...

That gap sounds about right for a hyper piston....but that is just from memory of what I have read in the past. Like others said, check with the piston manufacture to see what they recommend.

All of the cast crank issues I have seen over the years revolved around the a few years of the Eagle 4" cast crank. Scat didn't have the same issues. With that said, I have run both an Eagle 4" forged crank and a Scat 4" forged crank with no issues....my current low 10 second engine uses the...

I will add, all 3 of my Edelbrock intakes (RPM, RPM Air-Gap, Victor) had MAJOR core shift....I had to go ham with the grinder to get the ports in the same ball park as the heads. Just my 2 cents. Edit: I really like how the Edelbrock intakes perform, but the QC is lacking.

I've built 2 strokers for my car, both used Scat I-beams, and neither needed any Mallory to balance. The first stroker I had balanced at a local shop after I purchased parts individually (Forged Eagle crank, Scat I-beams, Diamond forged pistons). That engine ran great (high to mid 10's). The...

Engine on a pallet would get an "engine core" price in my book....but I'm a VERY skeptical person. The only way I would pay more is if it was totally disassembled so I could inspect everything....then the sum of parts might be worth more depending on what is there (just my 2 cents).

Mid to low 10's, you will need about 550hp or better at that weight (assuming you are at 3100#'s car and driver). I don't know what power my car makes (never checked), but it pushes my ~3250# Barracuda into the low 10's.

I have 3" Dynomax Race bullets on my Barracuda...they don't slow the car down at all....but they also don't hardly quiet it down either, lol.

Funny, I actually did something similar years ago because I was coming from a big block build that didn't pan out and I needed a new trans for my 318/904 combo. I pulled my 904 and put in a used 727 with the converter that I had already purchased for the big block (I was pinching penny's at the...

Ooooh, bummer....Just FYI, switching to the 727 from a 904 will slow the car down some (1-3 tenths of a second from what I understand). Not saying that you can't go fast with a 727...heck, that is what I use, and my car boogies, but when you start looking for every last bit of ET you can...