Search results for query: *

You are right about the factory connector not locking into position. I have dilled the holes out and just stuck the pins through them. The Molex sockets will give the same retention force the factory sockets had. 3D printing a connector is an incredible idea. That's a good way to solve the...

The Amp sockets I'm referring to are the ones that look identical to the Molex sockets. For some reason they don't fit as tight as the Molex ones. I have no idea who made the OEM sockets.

As an added note to post 10. Make sure to use Molex sockets. The Amp .093 sockets don't have as much retention force.

If you want sockets that will fit on the circuit board pins, use Molex .093 sockets. P/N 02-09-1119 for 18-22 awg wire and 02-09-1104 for 14-20 awg wire. They are available from Mouser or Digi-key. They have about a good retention force, so if you tyrap the wires together, they will hold just as...

The square back style alternator has 2 types. The easiest way to tell them apart is by the width of the stator ring. The narrow width type is rated at 78 amps, the other is rated around 60. The problem is if you have a rebuilt wide stator type, you don't know if the stators and rotors have been...

You guys are talking about several different types of alternators all of which are wired differently. The Denso alternators have a warning light circuit that is not part of the excitation circuit. The alternators that use a light or resistor for excitation have a warning light or field circuit...

Okay, I see what you are talking about. The cars I maintain only have 12 ga. wires on the starter relay. If I have to run a jumper wire from the battery to the starter relay, I'll just run it from the battery to the alternator and eliminate the relay connection.

I'm sorry, but I am very confused by this post. It may be a communication problem. The starter relay is the small silver box on the firewall and the starter solenoid is the unit mounted down on the starter. Everyone is saying run the alternator charging wire to the starter relay, which is on the...

C'mon, you are kidding me. You are telling the OP to run his 10ga charging wire into a 12ga circuit back to the battery. You know better than that. It needs to go direct to the battery or starter stud no matter what it takes to do it.

What's the reason for running the alternator charging wire to the starter relay? I would run it to the battery or starter power stud.

JoesEdge and 67Dart273, I don't remember the specs on the potentiometer, but it is rated high enough to handle any troubleshooting I do. I wrote precision potentiometer in my write up, because that's what it takes to do accurate testing. That pot cost me about $30. I didn't want any Radio...

This is the setup I use for testing gauges. It is a 5 volt power supply made with a 7805 regulator and a precision variable potentiometer. I set the resistance I want with an ohmmeter then connect it up and check the reading. Using a variable potentiometer lets you slowly change the resistance...

I'm an absolute genius. I can look at alternators and tell the output. Actually, I've worked part time at a friends alternator shop for forty years. Look at the pictures of these cases. Mopar changed to a heavier casting with thicker cooling fins, added ground lug, and beefed up bearing support...

That's a 78 and later alternator, it's good for close to 80 amps. The output wire is way too small for any alternator. I would start with grounding the voltage regulator. It looks like it isn't even touching the firewall. There's a screw head stuck under the lower left corner.

Just get one for a 1973,74,75 model car and check to make sure neither terminal is grounded to the case. Rebuilders seem to be converting more of these higher output squareback alternators to work with the early style regulator. All they do to convert it is leave the insulating washer out of one...

NEVER DISCONNECT ANY BATTERY CABLES WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!!! Google "alternator load dump" and read about how much component damage this can cause. If the rear bearing housing isn't magnetized, it ain't working. Take it somewhere else and have it tested. A qualified technician should be able...

MSD has bought Accel Group which includes Mallory. You can Google more information on it, but we can only guess what changes will come.

A very simple and easy to use inertia switch is the one found in the trunk of 2000 and up Fords. You just install it in series with the fuel pump relay control circuit. To test it, whap it with a screwdriver, the red button will pop up and open the circuit, push the button in and it resets. this...

I use the MSD crimpers. They have jaws for almost any connector you'll be dealing with and are very well made.

Get a Moroso 74102 switch and wire it according to one of these diagrams

I personally just cut them off and throw them away, then replace them with mate-n-lok connectors. the ones I use are p/n 1-480702-0 and 1-480703-0 with the corresponding pins and sockets ordered from Mouser.com.

There is a big difference in current carrying capability between AC and DC rated switches. If you look at the specs for Home Depot/Lowes switches, you will see they are rated for AC voltage and do not have DC ratings. Waytek and other suppliers sell DC rated switches they can carry a large load...

Nice job on the cable.

This is a diagram of the way I do them. The Moroso switch is a good choice, it's all I use and one of them has been in use for over 15 years.

There is a lot of information to be found in checking the primary voltage at the coil with a scope. The pattern should be adjusted to show all cylinders on the screen, then look at each cylinder and make sure the coil voltage is being switched by a very "clean" and precise signal. You can make...

Those of us whose work is approved by the FAA, American boat and yacht council, etc. have to use butt connectors, because solder splices are not approved. That may be the mark of an amateur, but there's not a single OEM vehicle manufacturer (including riding lawn mowers) that solder splice wiring.

This is the setup I use to see what the gauge is reading at certain temps. I take the sensor out and put it in a pan of water. Run jumper wires to reconnect the sensor to the vehicle (don't forget the ground wire). Start heating the water and compare readings.

I personally only use crimp splices, but no matter how you do it, use adhesive lined heat shrink to keep moisture out of the splice. And get yourself a heat gun, the results are a lot better than a lighter or blow torch. You have much better control with a heat gun.

I use Molex P/N 02-09-1119 sockets. They fit the pins perfectly, but don't always lock into the housing. Each one holds with the same force as the originals, so once you get them all on and tiewrapped together, they will hold firmly. I get mine from Mouser.

If the alternator you bought doesn't have two identical spade connectors, the terminal without the spade is probably already grounded. Check the resistance between the spade terminal and alternator case. If the resistance is 10 to 20 ohms, it's already grounded. If there is no resistance, just...