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I for one would not put a urethane BC/CC over the top of lacquer. Stripping it back off later would only add oodles of work.

Put it on the shelf and then go buy a Urethane product.

Aren't decals normally made out of vinyl? I wouldn't clear over one. You can lay out your stripe with fine line and spray black basecoat and then clear it with a flattened clear. Most paint lines have a flattening agent that you can add to the clear and they give you percentages to add to get...

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/body/mopp_0101_repairing_a_body_door_striker/index.html

And I would add, don't take it to Maaco. They are to paint jobs, what the Hindenburg is to dirigibles. People are often heard saying "oh the humanities" after Maaco gets done as well.

I believe the factory employed specialized pigeons who crapped molten steel in place of actual welders. Then again I've seen bird $hit that looked better than some of the welding I've seen.

Acrylic Enamel thinner works pretty good, not lacquer thinner, acrylic enamel.

If money is no option, you can have the car dipped without any ill effects, so long as the place doing the dipping, then follows that up with an e-coat process like this one: http://www.musclecarrestorations.com/ Check out the video.

I always put the prep solvent in one of these, spray on, then wipe off with dry wipe-all, changing wipe-alls frequently.

I am so buying a pair of these.

I'll tie a string on my finger or something to remember to take a look. Sort of fell off my radar.

Notch and fastback aren't even remotely close.

I might have a complete set on my 68 notch parts car. Not sure of the condition, i.e. dings and such. Can check when I get home tonight.

I think technically you get the "I just pumped the neighbors cat" grin. I could be wrong. I love the smell of clear curing in the morning.

A pox on the environazis for creating water born paints. And slowly outlawing VOC paints.

You just need to scotchbrite it again if you're not going to topcoat it within their window. Give it a quick go around with gray scotchbrite, prep solv and wipe, tack cloth it, spray.

I've used gallons of it. Love it. It's good stuff, and relatively cheap. I believe it is known as a polyuroxy. I have no qualms about using it.

Etch primer is old tech. Epoxy is the way to go.

Yeah if it's too hot, get up at the crack of dawn when it's cooler.

Holy Helen Keller!!! That looks like rubberized undercoating. There is no way that will cut and buff. DA the whole thing with 400, blend in the color where you will inevitably burn through, and re-clear it. Nothing else will fix that.

SEM panel bond adhesive or equivalent FUSOR product. Don't use "bondo", if you try to fill a hole, it's open on the back side and will soak up moisture and rust the metal and crack and fall off.

I would base everything, including jambs with body panels attached. That way your metallics flop all matches up panel to panel, then disassemble and clear separately, no tape lines.

An 1/8"-3/16" isn't so bad.

Verrrrrrry good advice.

I bet if you take it outside on a nice sunny day and let it bake for 20-30 minutes you'd still be able to smell the solvents coming out. Not that that should be construed as advice not to wax it, you should, it's plenty aged enough.

Yes, do not sand sealer. It is an adhesion promoter, not primer. Though some primers can be used as a sealer if over reduced, following the tech sheets of course.

Here's how I think it is done, give or take, I could be wrong. Yes sealant is needed, some swear by 1. Tape up anything that you don't want sealant on 2. Put bedding/glazing compound into the pinch weld groove side of the gasket and then put it on the car and tape it so that it stays...

Only if you really enjoy buffing and waxing weekly. There is no way I would ever spray BC/CC over an old lacquer job, and if you did, the paint warranty from the manufacturer would be void, assuming you are a certified refinish tech in that paint system and can warranty jobs. Lacquer is good...

In my opinion, Glasurit is the best paint line out there. Spendy as hell, but they are the best. I'd have to rank PPG second, RM Diamont is ok for production, that's why a lot of motorhome manufactures use it. If it's good enough for Ferrari, it's good enough for me.

There's a saying, "stupid should hurt". If you're stupid enough to go for the guy who says he can do something like that for $750 total...... then you gets what yous deserves. I bet that guy learned a valuable lesson.