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I haven't had the chance to borrow a dial indicator to test distributor shaft wear yet. So instead I tried a different distributor, with different springs, and no difference. The timing retards about 8* only if I quickly rev it up. If I bring the rpms up slowly, it advances fairly steadily.

I found my 79 Aspen FSM, and read the "Shaft and Bushing Wear Test". I suppose, I need to find a dial indicator, and do some testing.

I actually work in a parts store. Getting the Mr G springs shouldn't be a problem. I'm trying to wrap my head around what's happening in the distributor when I rev it up. As the RPMs come up the weights want to spin outward causing the rotor to advance. The springs keep this from happening...

All I have to choose from are stock springs, so I was going to try two of the light springs, instead of the stock setup of one light, one heavy...

PoisonDart74, I haven't got the vacuum advance connected yet. Thanks for the info, it'll help when I get to that. The one in the distributor is a 8.5, but I also have an 11 that tested good. Also, I believe it's a 3/32" allen wrench for the adjustment.

67Dart273, the distributor doesn't feel worn out. I had it completely apart, bushings look good, feels tight, turns smoothly. I lubed all the moving parts, and they all seem to move freely. I do have 4 or 5 more distributors to work with. Anything I should be looking for?

...360, 974 heads, Comp XE262 cam, new timing chain set, Crane Hi6 ignition box. Stock electronic distributor with initial timing set at 16*, advance yoke slots welded to limit mech advance to 18*. Stock advance springs. No vacuum advanced, yet. When I rev the engine off idle, the timing...

Looks like there are two styles. One with weight added opposite the keyway, the other with weight removed on the same side as the keyway. On the first style, the added weight is part of the centre hub. on the second, the weight is removed from the outer ring. I don't know if the difference...

Do 360s use different balancers for auto & manual trans? I found a catalog listing that shows this, but I'm really not sure what the difference would be. Any ideas?

I think early 70's were 6, and late 71's were 4. I'm sure the change happened when they ran out of stock of 6 bow headliners.

Most likely typo would be M instead of H. RH23F8R245671 makes more sense.

Looks like it started life as a 76 Duster, got a 73 rear bumper and a 72 Dart/Demon front end. Surprised he isn't selling it as a Demon.

Some pictures of progress on my engine swap. The Torker was never part of the plan, just to mask the lifter valley during painting. Still some hours to go before I'm ready to make some noise...

I always use the cork gaskets at the front and rear. With RTV to fill the gaps at the ends. I usually give the cork strips a light smear of RTV just to keep them in place. Also, RTV around the water ports on both sides of the gaskets. I always run a PCV.

There are two different center sump 360 oil pans. If your pan has the number 392 stamped in the bottom of the sump you're ok. If it's stamped 876, you need a specific pick up, a Melling 72S4.

Damn, I was hoping somebody here could help me ID this head.

All the pictures of the RHS heads that I found online had their logo cast by the spark plug holes. As well as dual exhaust bolt patterns. Can anybody take some pics of their Pro TopLine, RHS, or EQ heads for comparison? I haven't found much on google. Not with much detail anyway.

More pics, second try...

More pics

You can used either cap on either wheel, the bolt pattern for the caps are the same.

Anyone ever see a magnum head with a casting like this? There's also no core plugs on the ends of the heads.

It looked like the front two bolts should be longer, as the intake flange is thicker there. At least on the cast iron manifold I'm going to use. Thanks guys!

Anybody know how long they're supposed to be?

Digging through my bolt bucket, I realized I'm not sure the correct length the intake bolts should be. I assume they'll have a pilot tip and a captured washer.

I hate threads like this where you never find out the results. It's like missing the last 10 minutes of a movie.

This is something I need to deal with as well.

I'm pretty sure the left side manifold is for B&E body.

Lucas offers a HotRod oil in 10w30, 10w40 and 20w50, all rated at 2100 ppm of zinc.

Ugh. Internet Journalism at it's best. My guess, is that some hipster "reporter" was given the assignment even though he doesn't own a car or have a license. A quick google/wikipedia search, and he was an expert. Here's what I learned. K car, Aries, and Reliant all got their own listing...

Looking for ideas for valvesprings on magnum heads. A friend offered me some LS springs and retainers, saying he'd used the same combo before. They're the stock beehive style. I'm hoping to run a cam with .512" lift. Anybody tried this?