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With plastic tanks it doesn't take much effort to make them leak. If the core-support was hit hard enough to make it diamond shaped, you can bet the plastic will leak, sooner or later. If your cooling system is operating properly, the ambient temp will not affect it. If the pressure in the...

That only works if the induction system is able to simultaneously pass more air. And a big part of the increase is the larger Swept volume which increases the SCR. What I mean is this, you can put a 5" piston on your pushmower, but good luck even starting it with that lil rope starter.. lol

I have everything you need for a 4-speed conversion, except the floor-hump and a reverse switch. Including 3 or more transmissions to chose from. Currently they are on the back-burner for assembly, with many new parts. I could also rustle up an 8.75 with gears from 2.76 to 3.23, or even a...

I think if I was in your predicament, I would have solved my way past that a long time ago. Jus saying.

...cooler so I heated it up. First thing I did was to install a THERMOSTAICALLY controlled clutch on a 7 blade fan, which now controls the temp to 207*F, cycling in and out as may be required. I haven't more than glanced at the factory temp gauge since about 2001. I run whatever timing I want at...

19.63/12.56= 1.563, equals an increase in area of 56.3% IDK what your numbers are doing....... except that 12.56/19.63 which is going the wrong way. We are looking at an increase, not the inverse.

If it was mine, I'd just file it flat, restore the clearance in the undercut, and if not leaking, bolt it on as is.

No You get a ball-bearing assembly that fits on the input gear where the bushing would normally go; and the OD fits in the recess on the crank where the Convertor hub would normally go. If your regular pilot-bushing is damaged, I would either pull it out or ream it. but if not, I left mine in...

If it fits, it can be made to work. And it could be modified to work with electronics..... But electronic SBM distributors have been around for like over 50 years now, so not hardly worth bothering with the point-types any more. I save a couple in case we get hit by an EMP, and the world goes dark.

Those are easy to fix problems and cheap too. What cannot be fixed in that trans is the wide 1-2 split. If that is NOT your complaint, then I would just fix it. If I lived next door, I could probably fix you up in a couple of hours, if the trans was on the floor and clean.

> If you want power at sub-3000 rpm, yur gonna need pressure at those rpms. If you don't have pressure/power at those rpms, then don't drive at those rpms; either get a high-stall, or sit back and wait for the power to arrive. As for me, with a manual trans, almost all of my street driving is...

As to the cam; My alloy-headed, 367 street-combo had three cams in the first 4 years of operation.. 292/292/108 @11.3Scr making ~175psi 270/276/110 @11.3 making over 190psi 270/276/110 @10.7 making about 182psi 276/286/110 @10.95, making about 177psi the Quench varied from a high of 039 to a...

Yeah, those graphs can be tricky, lol.

...8/1 318, with a headgasket change from 020 to 039, which is typical, brings the Scr down to 7.7. At 800ft elevation, with the stock cam at Ica of 48*, this is predicted to make 129psi CCP. Put a rowdy cam in there with an Ica of 64*, and this falls to 112psi, and just like that your 318...

My car only runs on the street, on 295/50-15 BFGs or Cooper Cobras. no problems in 20 years

FYI I took my overdrive long mainshaft to a machine shop, and had them make me a brass/bronze bushing for to accept a regular third gear. Then I threw all the regular gears into an F-body alloy box, but used the od front synchronizer hub, then bolted on the B-body tail. I already had the...

If you are starting with a low-compression engine, like a 73-up; How many times, has a guy come on FABO, and said "stock bottom end"; then come back afterwards crying how gutless the bottom end is? All your go fast goodies are designed to increase the power by making the engine able to breath...

In late summer of 1970, I bought a 1970 Swinger 340 with less than 11,000 miles on it. It didn't smoke all that much but it regularly used a quart in 900 miles. It was still on the 5n50 warranty, so I took it to the Dealer. The story I got from the service department was, that this was normal...

BTW the 3.09 low gear trans, is a completely different gearset. IIRC ONLY the low-gear will swap with a 2.66 box. Furthermore from 2.66 to 3.09 is plus 16%, which is the same as from 3.23s to 3.73s, without the wide 1-2 split. With a high-compression 360, that split is no bother. But the...

...dash-mounted, dial-back, timing device.. However, My engine is set-up at 11.3 Scr and pumps over 185psi. It will willing idle, and pull, at just 5* of Idle-Timing. and it will easily take throttle with no bucking, no hesitation, no flatspots, no tip-in sag. That is what the difference from...

That's a heckuva dream. and a heckuva motor for a 3400 pound car.

Easy, IF IN FACT the points are working, then the gas from all the cranking, has washed the oil off the cylinder-walls and ring-lands, everything is dry, and there's not enough cylinder pressure to lite it off. Maybe even, the lifters have bled down. Maybe even the valves have seized in the...

...take of, from idle to around 3000 rpm. Even if I fudge your cam numbers to 264/264/108 advertised@ zero lash, the Ica is gonna come in at around 56*. And Eastern OK, appears to be around 1000ft elevation. These two combine to predict a cylinder pressure of 137psi, which is mediocre at best...

I had the same except 3s, and an H-pipe. Was very happy with that. I gotta warn you tho; at 7200 they are anything but quiet, lol.

1) If the distributor is factory, it was likely curved for 5* initial, and 30 degrees in the flyweights. for a total of 35Degrees.. With 18* initial now, you are trying to run 53* of Power-Timing, and the engine is complaining by detonation, which kills power. 2) With hi-compression heads on a...

A 30% gear change is sortof like just using the next gear in the trans. For instance; Say you had 2.76s and went to 3.91s, the road gears with a 727 are ------ 6.76-4.00-2.76 versus 9.58- 5.67-3.91, ---- So you are just trading one gear for another. IMO, what you should really do is get rid...

You already got the rest of the conversion?

I built a big-tub car cuz inside the factory tubs, even lowered; 1) I could install 325/50-15s, for straight-line work, and/or 2) as a DD she accepts 295/50-15s, with no cornering restrictions. I like the looks of those wide tires back there; among other things. .

Really? I guess you should show the rest of us how, on a budget, you did that. And don't say airshocks; clown. I don't understand how, even when the OP asks for an opinion, you are still ready to brag on your car, whilst busting my balls. Op asked for an Opinion. I got an idea; Go start your...

...temperature gauge, and, Secondly; determine the efficiency of the system; If the coolant temp drops 30 degrees, from top to bottom at idle, then it is as good as it gets. If only 20*, then it is borderline, but you still cannot blame the rad for that. You have more diagnostic checks to perform.