I run a Wilson plate system and i love it. Its a little more money than the NOS, but it does come with the purge valve too. The small Wilson plate system will do from 50HP to 250HP.
Go with a system like this from Canton. Yes its expensive, but it wont leak and it works great. I have it on my small block and never need to worry about it.
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=22-823
Be careful with that stock 360 block. I'm running one and mine is 600HP without nitrous. The stock 360 block is not made for what we are doing and its only a matter of time before you break a cap. That's why i'm getting all the parts now for a R3 W9 motor.
Can someone please give me the measurements where to place the "fish in the circle" deck lid emblem. I have a fiberglass deck lid that I want to put the emblem on.
Thanks
Let me know if you want a complete 1967 Barracuda small block K member with steering box and brakes for your car. I just took it out of my Barracuda and looking to sell it. I'm also in NC rear Raleigh.
I'm running a set of them that were ported, valves were changed to 2.05, changed to a heavy set of springs to run a solid roller...and i'm running in the 9's with them, so I would say they are good for the money.
I have been running the Alterkation setup for about a year now. Its a great setup for the street and for the track. I have no issues with it even when pulling the front wheels 2 feet up in the air.
Bill is a great guy to deal with and he really stands by his work.
I drilled some 1.25" holes in the firewall so I can get to the top 4 tranny to engine bolts. Now I just use a socket wrench from inside the car to take out the 4 top bolts. I put in the plastic body plugs when i'm done. Its under the carpet so you never see it.
I have a 3" shaft from my 67 Barracuda with an 8.75 rear and 727 tranny. It has the large mopar U joints. The shaft has about 500 miles on it and I took it out to go to a 3.5" alum because of my new motor.
PM me if your interested.
I spoke to 2 different ladies at TTI and a tech guy and they all told me the same thing. They have these headers on the shelf waiting to go out. I also spoke to Ben from Promax Carbs and he has a set of polished for sale too. I forgot to ask about the collector size, but I think its still a...
Just got off the phone with TTI to confirm that they now have 1 7/8" A body headers for the Edelbrock and other sq. port heads. They said they were getting so many calls for these headers that they had to make them. Now we can really make the Edelbrocks breath!!!
Yea, and thats fine...glad Bill was honest with me. I do run his Alterkation setup in the front and this is a great kit for the drag strip. I'll try the Caltracs and see how they work because my SS springs are ok but I know my launches could be better.
I was going to put the Street Lynx in my drag only car but i'm not really sure its the right kit for drag racing. I spoke to Bill and he said that it would be ok if I added in an anti-roll bar because this would keep the rear level. So with the anti-roll bar, the street-lynx, the better Afco...
Get the AlterKtion setup. I know its not cheap, but it's what your looking for. My '67 used to change lanes when I hit a bump and would not stop with the drums...Now, I have rack and pinion, tubular arms, and disk brakes...sweet!!!
I agree with sscuda...The PPP shifter is the best on the market today. I had the Cheetah for 15 years and then I switched to the PPP. You can easily miss a gear with the Cheetah, but with the PPP there is no chance of that.
Better get that Dart into the mid to low 10's if you want a chance of getting into the group they pick...have you ever seen them pick anything slower then mid 11's?
Dont use anything except for Brad Penn 30wt break in oil. There is nothing better. My engine builder has guys that run the break in oil for a whole season...I changed mine to Brad Penn 15w40 after 20 passes.