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Wasn't much to say with that chunk missing outta the pinion, sorry to say, I wouldn't run that for fear of messing anything else up if/when something else goes awry. If I had to run it. It'd be with the expectation of more carnage . Good luck.

I used to love the street guys that insisted in a rolling start, - not knowing you have 1st gear "coast" valve body. Like pulling the trigger at speed . jmo

Perhaps consider a manual shift auto. Mine started new as a 4 speed, got tired of changing syncros, (racing), went manual shift auto, - less breakage, more hardware, almost as much fun as a 4 gears when combined with line-lock. Back to 4 speed now, and just broke my left foot, chit ! lol Very...

Lotta "left" thread bolts there. Check the bolt heads for "L". The ring gear and carrier case bolts are L, iirc.

A short audio/video demonstrating the vibration different conditions can be a great help to us Cheers

I found I couldn't get a true flat piece of .5 stock without machining it down to .499. Just a heads up, that was waaay back then.

In my original post, I placed a decimal wrong. The small piece of steel is exactly 0.500" (1/2") thick . I have edited that post. Sorry for any inconvenience, eh . . Cheers

As Rusty mentioned, 3 thou can move the pattern/contact quite a bit .

Not sure I can answer that, 1968, my mentor taught me adding according to the few thou etched in the pinion, ( ala L023M8B post) - then we moved to universal shop, and all the aftermarket gears came with depth from center, made the tool to work on all.

That works great till you get an aftermarket pinion, they measure by actual depth. I copied the dealership tool, and made the carrier bearing sizes in chev, Ford, Dana, so it works on all diffs, including Toyota. The small square flat piece is exactly 0.500" (1/2") to transfer the end of the...

The last time I put an engine like that in a street car, - it didn't matter what gears you put in unless you were looking for top speed. It shredded the 14 inch wide MickeyThompsons thru all gears. Try to get it to hook first .

1969 Factory Service Manual diff torques .

You may be thinking GM RRR, They were 210 ish IIRC.

Crush sleeve doesn't know or care if it was pre-crushed. Couldn't get crush sleeve for a while back 1970's, my mentor went next door to the machine shop and had about 100 - 10 thou thick shims made. We have never bought a sleeve since, - just add a shim and crush the sleeve a bit more. We were...

8.75" Rear End Torque Specs All specs are lbs-ft, unless noted Bearing Cap Bolts 90 Ring Gear Bolts 55 Pinion Flange Nut:. Min torque Small Pinion. 741 120 Tapered Pinion. 742. 170 Large.Pinion. 489. 240...

Change to 20/50 oil, or add a can of STP, or similar "honey" oil thickening additive .

Our Ferry Corp bought about a dozen "retired" ones to move baggage carts back and forth from the ferry to the terminal. I don't think any 2 were the same, "like a box of chocolates", everytime you lifted the hood, you never knew what power/trans/diff. They were geared to "tug", - top speed, high...

Lol, this was 1/4 mile, B-body Dart, with a 426 hemi grafted in. I knew he solved the issue, didn't hear the cause . Prob 2nd gear shift. Thanks.

Just get a shaft longer than you need, then cut it when sure .

Always wondered why those tailshaft housings broke .

With the small front bearing and a worn trans, - 3rd gear deflection where the shafts meet, loose clearances, 3 fat friends, it adds up.

If you try to break it, you will . 4 fat friends in the car dropping the clutch at 4k, good chance.

I think where that was going, that us not knowing the type/limits of the shifters travel, and without the pin to give max front/back movement, is it possible that the rod adjusters moved a twist or two, and won't allow enuff lever travel to be totally/sufficiently in 2nd gear, causing it to jump...

Just slide the nuts back so you're clamping to the tube, not the nut. Good luck .

Those clamp things aren't made/intended to hold pressure, trust me, I had a coupla sets. They are fine to plug the lines while the rad is out (for repair)to stop drips/leaking on the floor. Looping the lines with a hose and clamps will hold the pressure. (Demolition Derby tested, lol) Cheers

Here's a thread for a similar install, including some issues that might occur. Some may be helpful, some not, but give you an idea what's involved, Cheers https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/help-adjusting-%E2%80%9867-904-console-floor-shifter.554686/

My valve body is like that. It has been modified to a reverse manual valve body, and the throttle pressure lever isnt used in this particular case. The shaft you show doesn't appear to have had a lever on it for a while because of the rust. If you can talk to the previous owner, or someone who...

You need to take the side-cover off and inspect the gears condition, find out what else is missing, and identify which gears-set is in there. After 50+ years anything could be in there, the stamped #s aren't reliable. I have changed the guts out of many broken cases, for whatever good case is on...

It'll be really noisy for a while. The roller bearings will likely be as rusty/pitted as the gears, they'll create heat and boom. You're buying the case only, and not the preferred one either. Good luck. jmo

Smell the engine oil, a wiped thrust bearing burns the oil.