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yeah man, it'll make it louder. volume is kind of a product of pipe length, muffler, and compression. if you have full exhaust to the bumper it'll be quieter than dumping it at the axle after mufflers. but you're running a relatively low compression stock motor, unless it's straight pipes out...

yeah you can do duals off your stock manifolds. then down the line when you install headers you just hack the system back and connect it in. you'll need two mufflers, so either another one of those if it's what you want and it fits or two mas.

i was there for the green bearing wars. i fought back the hoards and naysayers, driving the detractors before their wives and children and reaping their mortal souls amidst the wails; and making chariots of their bones in the aftermath. i did this not to quell my insatiable appetite for blood...

i'm just three raccoons in a trench coat.

IANAL* but it's probably a civil matter and the po-po don't wanna get involved. *although i have played one on tv

name of the rally? (asking for a friend)

all of the standard non-roller/magnum/anything with a tensioner ones i've see are the shorty bolts with the cross hatched heads. but given ma mopar's proclivity of "we're out of this! that's okay we'll just use these!" anything is possible.

good deal then. the "correct" bolt for the cam isn't hyper critical. just make sure you have one that is correct length and has good engagement with a washer onto the "crush washer" that holds everybody together there. and don't forget the loctite.

could you? sure. should you? well that depends on your level of comfort.

upper left: crank key under that: cam key silver bolts: likely thrust plate bolts black bolts: could also be thrust plate bolts bronze bush is for the intermediate shaft (it goes in the block) dowels locate the heads- two on each side drip tab in the center goes over the thrust plate and is...

yes, and overdrive sooo... a 518 or 46RH with probably *checks notes* a JW ultrabell... and all the associated upgrades. i know that around here, 518's and 46RH's are hen's teeth. so once you've factored in the price to obtain a core and then the price of repair components, upgrades and a...

i think that would fit the bill nicely for what he's trying to do. a 2004R could probably be spec'd out to take the abuse with the bonus that it's a relatively small package comparison wise.

they clip into the frame rail from the outside just ahead of the K and kinda just dangle down. if you look under there and see the metal splash shields, these go in the next "hole" forward. apologies for the cryptic description, i don't have the car right here in front of me. i'll get a pic...

the bigger bars would be a great addition. these cars were undersprung from the factory so upping the spring rate is an excellent idea. keep in mind that if you go above .920 you'll need good (read: expensive) shocks to control them. unfortunately, nobody makes/repops .890's or really...

if you don't already have electronic ignition with a properly curved distributor that should be number one on your list with a bullet. cheap, easy and compliments every modification you'll undertake down the line. after that, a cheap dual plane manifold-- you can pick up a performer new or...

look pal, it's nobody's business how much i service my rods but my own! i guess i'll use the formula from when i worked at the coal mine back in dickety-doo. back then we was sealing up unused shafts and it was three shovels of catskins to one shovel of tar, packed tight. that and two half...

kinda the direction i was leaning in as well. figured i'd solicit other o-pines in the department of cat skinning.

agreed that it could easily be a battle on a few different fronts. my *guess* is something electrical heating up and breaking down or breaking contact. but it could also be a little of column A, something from column B and a little of column C thrown in for good measure. death by 1000 cuts...

i'm pretty sure we're saying the same thing but it's lost in translation

this is my guess. motor is fresh, cam is an oregon regrind, timing set was checked, springs are hughes. carb is from previous motor and ran great. electronic ign is also a new variable and was swapped at the same time. box or coil, but coil is new. so that leaves box or possibly distributor.

a small investment in the abundance of caution category. i know the job is a pain in all nine assholes, but man it would drive me to madness if i didn't. also, check the washer on the bolt. if it's totally caved, i'd recommend a fresh or less crushed out one.

...have moved on or their kids are now dragging them out to get 'em going again. i find great joy in putting something back on the street that's been dormant for ages-- even if it's *slightly* de-tuned from what it was back then; they're still cool cars and it's great to see them out running...

so what's the general consensus on attachment? riv-nuts and panel bond? tech-screws and sealer? duct tape and chewing gum-- don't worry the carpet will hold it down just fine! fwiw install is 65 dart w/ buckets

on the thrust plate bolts, yeah. but no loctite on the cam bolt? the FSM says thread locker on the cam, nothing on the thrust plate bolts. which i tend to give them a little drop of blue because of my paranoia tendencies.

probably used a offset key in the cam or crank... :poke:

sometimes when i'm at the yard and i see what appears to be a perfectly good car just entirely wrecked-- and i don't mean accident, but like all cut up and the work of some hackasaurous rex from planet hackulon with some half assed idea and half assed skills that's whole assed some abortion of...

oh wow... there must be a fantastic story that lead to the creation of that clause!

in addition to all the aforementioned issues: weight, heat, cooling system, fuel, which you know going in are issues, i hope that your fabrication/chassis building skills are en pointe. sectioning the firewall and moving/modifying the crossmember and floor means that you're compromising...

rip charlie hustle, a bastard till the end.