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Thanks but I already read that thread.

I have a 64 Valiant with the wiper pivots that use the screw on arms. It looks like I will not be able to remove the arms without destroying them. My question is: will the pivots from a 65 or 66 Valiant fit and work?

When I originally had this done the shop charged me $110 parts and labor, including balancing and a "NEW" tube. Only thing they used from the old shaft was the yoke for the rear u-joint. That was a long time ago.

OK Then. You should be able to modify the headers to work with the PS. A 170 and PS I think would require major mods to the headers.

I forget is Vixen a 170 or a 225?

Unl Unless they have changed them (which I doubt) they don't fit an early "A" with power steering. I put a set on a 64 Valiant some years ago (I was converting from manual to power steering) and the front collector hits the steering box. You need to modify the front three tubes to raise the...

You got a Az Toad would donate to my "A" body collection?

Damn, I forgot about that. Probably because I have never owned or worked on a 60-61 Valiant or Lancer.

Maybe. depends on the year of the engines. Up to 1967 both are the same as each other. 68 and later both are the same as each other. but different than the 67 down. Only difference is the size of the center hole

sleeping

Totally agree. In my area, you can't believe how many vehicles need adjusting. I don't have a convenient place to do a aiming against a wall. I had called around (a few years ago), and not a single shop (that I could find) in my county had proper aiming equipment. I found a "hoppy" aimer at a...

I'm an older driver. As a driver I like "good" LED headlights. As the "other car on the road" I hate LED's.

There is so much junk LED lighting out there, be careful. Listen to this member @slantsixdan

You're correct.

As they say. "a vehicle is worth exactly what someone is willing to pay".

It is pretty nice, but for that price it should be perfect. Hell it doesn't even have a radio. :)

Not all of us. I recommended staying with the slant six, mainly based on the fact that he is still a teenager, with a limited budget, and very limited experience working on cars. He can gain experience, working with the slant, get the car running, and have some fun with it. Then if he wants...

The way I did it. https://earlycuda.org/techdocs/ConvertFrontUJoint.pdf

I don't remember the last year of the 273. The only 727 that might work would be a small block 727, and if the 273 was 1968 or newer (crank pilot/converter issue).

It depends on the year of the V-8 and the year of the trans. The 904 converter pilot got larger in 1968. So, a 68 or newer 904 will not fit the crank of a 1967 or older V-8 (same for the slant six)

The 65 trans has a flange that bolts onto the output shaft, just like the 64 trans. However the bearing and seal at the end of the tailshaft housing on the 65 trans is different then the 60-64 parts. The part number that is listed in the screen shot (2464 482) is correct for the 1965 trans...

That screen shot from Fatsco in not correct. 1965 TF904 (at least in "A" bodies) did not have a slip in yoke, it still used the flange. Just a FYI: 64 and 65 used different extension housing rear seals. However the oem part number (2464 482) referenced is correct for 1965. The seal part number...

Good deal. Parts are worth more than the price you paid. But I would look it over real close for serious rust, and if none, don't part it out. get it repaired/restored.

They are fine for a slant six, or a mild V-8, and are cheap when found, as the Ford guys remove them for 9 inch units. They come in quite a few different widths, and if the right one is found just about a drop in for a Mopar "A" body.

I'm using a Ford 8 inch from a 71 Comet, in my 64 Valiant. Except for U-joint it is a "bolt in" deal. and gives large bolt pattern.

What, no "POSI" :) :)

I know of a member on slant six dot org that did the 200r4 in a 68 Dart with a slant six. Street driver/drag car that gets close to mid 20's MPG, and runs high 12's in the 1/4 mile. This car is not just a "sunday" driver. It is a "long haul" driver.

Just keep in mind no matter which trans is used, the drive shaft will need to be modified (B&T to slip spline) and there will most likely be some shifter/linkage issues. None of this is a big deal.

Without cleaning off some rust, I measure the hub diameter at 2.310 on both the 9 inch and 10 inch hubs. 13 inch and 14 inch wheels measure 2 310-2.320 center hole. These are all small bolt pattern.

True. I was also under the impession all SBP wheels had the same dia hub hole.