The ones with the recirculating interior air non heated don’t work nearly as well as the heated grid.
The one in my 68 Barracuda has two round vents. Takes a long time but you’ll start to see two unfrosted circles eventually.:rolleyes:
I added one when I lived in Iowa. It was better than...
mine is real close to my 68 3-speed wiper.
also, I had to run a oil filled MSD blaster coil to get it to work. The digital e-coil did now work. They may have fixed that by now.
mines been running since 2011. I don’t use the vacuum advance.
The SunPro Super II tachs were not anything spectacular originally. Not sure if that was the one you are looking at or not.
Buy new.
unless you can get a used one that says it’s working for 1/3 price new.
I paid $5 for this one 25 years ago. Still work fine. Might pay $10 now. Have another...
I think mine came off a 4 door car. Like a Geo or Nova variant. It had a V-groove pulley.
It’s 2 3/4” diameter OD.
My water pump pulley is 6 1/2”
My pulley centers are 9 1/2” apart.
On heavy acceleration, it squeals. Pulley alignment is spot on. Wonder if the ratio isn’t right
I followed that 3-wire diagram mopowers posted. Been running it for 10 years with stock 50 year old wiring harness.
... not bad for a junkyard alternator. I bought it 20 years ago just to see if it would fit. Pretty good alternator seems.
Emissions device. In 71 they were on certain combination N95 coded California emission cars. Don't know if that changed to all cars in 72.
That had other devices included depending on trans and motor.
Have had plenty of 50 year old gauges work fine. Of course those were in cars with 50 years of continuous use and not hacked up wiring.
I though there was a quick way to test the fuel guage. Like with a 9v battery or something?
The four rally guage inserts aren't too tough to find used. Look...
No doubt it did.
I bought mine because of your experience with it.
MSD told me at their SEMA booth they changed some things internally with their E-curves and they were not interacting with the SS Coils whereas earlier in production there was not a problem. It's just my experience from...
I had to use the blaster 2. Or any oil filled coil.
At first I tried to use a E-coil solid state coil. Would not work. With two different E-curves setups (returned one). At SEMA MSD said to try a oil filled coil. They said something changed in the E-curves and they were not working with...
I just shortened the factory non a/c lower bracket by cutting the end off and drilling a new hole.
You will have to drill out the holes on the alternator to take the slightly larger diameter bolt that goes into the block. I also tapped the adjuster bolt hole to convert it to Std US threads...
Nope. I still run the factory ampmeter.
Didn't bypass anything at the bulkhead. Just took my 68 mechanical voltage regulator (61-69 style) out and connected the input to the output.
This was the mock up dry run. Later cleaned the connections and such. Bonehead when I took this picture. I...
This is the mini denso 45 amp out of a Suzuki Samurai
I got that one out of a junk yard and had it checked at the parts store. Been running it for 4 years now. My dash lights do not dim at idle like they did before.
Had to drill out the stud hole just a little larger. And make solid spacer...
Just grab a known good regular low performance old oil filled coil and test it. That what MSD said to try first. It worked for me fine. Then I went and got a MSD Blaster II
Does it idle ok?
Does it just cut out and high RPM? Could the Rev Limiter be set wrong?
Mine didn't want to even idle at first. Turns out the MSD Solid State coil was not compatible with the E-Curve. I put in a MSD oil filled coil and been working fine.
Like was said before...
Figure out your total timing without pinging. Something like 32-36.
If you want 12 degree initial and 32 total... pick a 20 degree curve. Rev your car past the rpm of the curve you picked and set it at 32. Now double check to see if your initial is at 12 degree at...
I have one. It's confusing. Then you get and it seemed easy....but now I'm foggy how I got it first started.
Now that it's set up you basically you set total advance and go backwards. Like... if you want 32 total= 10 initial, 22 mechanical. Pick a 22 deg mech curve. Rev motor past your mech...
Problem I saw was the new float arm was way shorter. That changes the ratios. That makes it so at first the gauge reads Full to 3/4 full for quite a while. Then goes from 3/4 to 1/4 full fairly steady. Finally it goes from 1/4 to E VERY fast.
Now with the right circuitry that situation can...
Get a picture of that one before you buy it. Very good chance it's the same as the cheap "chinese" ones.
Just look at your old sender, next to the new ones. They are designed very different. Much beyond the ohm reading.