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Getting back to my question...why are you sanding paint? I see now that you are doing a 'scuff and shoot' meaning you are going over the old paint. Of course the whole job is as good as what is underneath it. In this case I would clean and sand 320....enough to rough it up. For areas...

I’ve looked into this before. Scratches aren’t likely coming out. New glass Shouldn’t be too expensive depending on year model new/used. I have some 3000 grit liquid polish I use to clean glass if a razor doesn’t do it.

I'd try the PlastX first. I used it to clean the haze on a plastic convertible rear window this summer. Novus makes products too but I haven't tried them.

Check/clean the bulkhead connector contacts (the yellow wire if I remember correctly).

There are lots of good resources out there…YouTube, forums, FB, etc. of course you have to figure out the knowledgeable people. I go to autobody101.com , spiuserforum and a few YT channels like Paint Society

Typically filler needs a coarser grit under it. After epoxy most people spray a 2k primer or high build primer which is much easier to sand than epoxy. Block it 180, reprime and then sand 320/400 then 600 depending on whether your going to paint or sealer.

Why are you sanding a fresh coat of paint? Are you doing a cut and polish on a base/clear paint job?

I used the Revell chrome spray to redo my glovebox door trim and was very happy with it. Most of the other sprays just look like silver. For $40 its worth giving it a try if you are considering doing the work yourself.

Years ago this guy called in asking what size electric motor he needed to replace the engine on his rototiller. I asked him why he wanted to do that. He said his wife couldn’t get the engine started.

I've repaired my 30 year old Kenmore washer and dryer recently for a total of $7 in parts (fuse in the dryer and lose level switch hose in the washer). Most would have just replaced them but I'm afraid to get new ones and have them last just a couple of years. “If the women don't find you...

if you look at the cost of upholstering the seats it might be worth getting some that are already done rather than paying hundreds of dollars for cores. By the way, a number of years ago I made some super stock aluminum seat brackets. A shop bent the plate up and I drilled the holes. There...

How old is it? I find that factory batteries last over 10 years and cheap aftermarket batteries half that. If they get run dead now and then its even worse. Many of them quit with little warning. The car just doesn't start one day. My wife's Mazda battery is 10 years old. I'll probably...

I did some investigating disabling the stop/start on my '15 Jeep Cherokee and found that it wasn't possible at least without warning messages.

I’ve got a C11 and a K11 you can have. They look the same but the heads are a little different.

Is it magnesium?

I’ve got a few probably E body lengths. All seat belt bolts are 7/16 UNF as far as I know.

I see that the TTI tips are 1 1/2" shorter than the ones I bought (12 1/2" vs 14") and I assume they have no hanger provisions. I will make what I have work.

That’s the way a local shop used to do it. They had a Sunn machine to spin them up I believe. They are long gone unfortunately.

From what I have read Accurate tips aren’t exactly like stock either. I just need modified tailpipes and stock hangers if I end up not liking how the TTIs exit.

The turn downs look good but I wanted the stock look. The tips aren't TTI. They have the same dimension as stock '70 except are 2 1/2" and not the small 1 5/8" or 1 7/8". I guess I will find out one day. If the worst comes to the worst I will have to pay someone to alter the tailpipes and...

Just wondering who has run stock style tips with the TTI exhaust system. I just installed the TTI system and it looks like the tail pipes exit about 3 inches inboard per side of where the stock pipes would have exited. The hangers are on the tail pipes and not the tips like the stock system. Do...

I see a lot of them have replacement engines. Many of the STIs were abused heavily with cranked up turbos.

Any decent fix will require stripping down to good paint and sealing before new base/clear at a minimum.

I hope they are better than the cheap gears

That is cheap. I wonder how it compares to the ones Dr. Diff sells.

There was one on EBay a few days ago.

Theoretically any decent oil with adequate ZDDP (1200 ppm+) should be sufficient. I bought the Joe Gibbs stuff just because.

I broke my 340 in with the Joe Gibbs 30W. It seemed to survive

Some friends complained about shortages of liquor and food in Cuba. I have no desire to go there or Mexico for that matter. We love Kawai but it’s awfully expensive these days.