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I love to patronize small businesses. It sounds touchy-feely but I feel better knowing that my money is helping a small business owner succeed. Sometimes though, they let you down because they don't have the manpower to meet the demands.

No offense meant for the following: I love these threads. They make me smile when someone asks a question that has them confused and it is a situation that others have seen and dealt with many years ago. Yeah that valve is similar to what you see on your wheels. They are Schrader valves that...

Okay, John....I have questions. What are these? I think ma Mopar should have kept them open like that to allow fresh air to the carburetor AND to clean out the leaves and debris that seems to collect there. Secondly, what are those things on the valve covers? I don't see a distributor at...

What happened, man? I was at the meeting but didn't see you anywhere.

The actual Poly-lube that I use is some white colored really thick goo that has a consistency much thicker than any axle grease.

I'm guessing that you lubed the poly bushings where they pass through the K member? You mention "noise" but not what type of noise. Squeak? Creak? Snap? Pop? The sound you get by rubbing dry fingers on a rubber balloon is usually related to lubrication. A creak is often metal related where the...

The bushings have that inner sleeve that rides on the strut rod. I tightened the washer and nut until it bottomed. The caster numbers that I got could not have been reached if these urethane bushings were thicker than the rubber ones.

No, I'm not 100% wrong, not even 1%. You could have simply written that you didn't agree. I've never consulted a service manual for torsion bar adjustment. Anyone with a curious nature can figure it out. The factory method is one that very few enthusiasts use. Looking at your cars, it sure seems...

That is a nice looking car. Absolutely. These cars have a camber and caster curve that changes a lot in a short amount of travel. See the chart here: That is with a 1973-76 A body disc brake knuckle but it isn't radically different from other knuckles used. The list shows "Dive" as...

I thought that the opening question was a guy messing with everyone else. It is something that does happen from time to time. The OP is listed as being in Sacramento. THIS Tuesday is the monthly meeting of the Capital City Mopars at the California Auto museum on Front Street in downtown...

Success! It drives straight, feels solid, is quiet and corners well. There are numerous things to do to this car but the front end and brakes are sorted out.

Here we go. 71 1/8”. The front number was less, 70 15/16”. That makes the toe 3/16” IN. How the heck did it land here before I made adjustments??? I had the tie rod ends out, I rotated the sleeves back and forth but in a huge stroke of blind luck, they ended exactly where I would have set...

The following will seem like I am lying but this is the absolute truth. Somehow, after it all has been apart, adjusted and everything, the toe numbers came in almost perfect with no adjustment needed. Yeah. Sometimes I am just really lucky. I first started the car and spun the wheel full...

The left side front cam bolt was all the way OUT so the only way to reduce camber and caster was to adjust the rear bolt out a bit. Here is where I ended up. That is the left side. Here is the right: That is close enough for me. Now I’ll set the toe. Have you seen these things before?

I used these washers…. My best guess is that these are 3/32”. You can see them peeking out from between the knuckle and lower ball joint. Here is what difference they made. These alone made a 1/2 degree of negative camber to arrive at 3/4 degree, not a bad number. The caster...

Thanks, man. I’m just a dude that fumbles around until I get it right. The right side: with the front alignment cam bolt OUT and the rear cam bolt IN, I have about 5 7/8 degrees of positive caster. That is great! The camber number shows about 1/2 degree negative. Looking at the specs listed...

The plate gets threaded on until it bottoms out. Then the gauge gets stuck on... You have to "level it" using the bubble on the outer edge. Next, you look at the outer bubbles to see where the camber is. Holy crap...I'm at 2 degrees of NEGATIVE camber?? My goal is for 1 degree...

One of those would be great to have, Sir. With the torsion bars back in and adjusted, the tires are on, the LCA bolts were tightened and the UCA cam bolts were left slightly loose so I can move them during alignment. Awhile back, I bought this alignment gauge. It has a magnetic base to...

Trying to get a ball joint or tie rod end loose without damaging the boot has been a pisser. The method of tapping on each side with opposing hammers sometimes works. I always forget to try a gear puller. I was at a turning point over the weekend. I had two ways to go: Forge ahead and replace...

Saginaws had at least 2 reservoir designs. The first one here is what some people call the "Canned Ham". See why? The shape is also sort of like a bowling pin. The second is round with a steel neck. Both use the same pattern at where the pump itself slides into the reservoir. The other...

The PST kit came today. I was already ahead of the game a bit before the stuff arrived. I used some of my new/unused stuff including urethane strut rod bushings, offset upper control arm bushings, lower control arm bushings and upper ball joints. You may wonder why I’d buy a whole kit when...

That is a great idea. I may take the time to make some specific tools to do this stuff. Being retired, I have some free time. Today was a parts cleaning day. I used the wire wheel on the bench grinder to clean off the dirt, grease and surface rust, then a few minutes in this: The bare steel...

Check out Moog quality...... I bought this piece of crap today and didn't open the box until I got home. Lower control arm bushings are not supposed to be offset. Thanks, India....

The inner shell/sleeve of the bushing needs to be supported from the back side as you press in the shaft. Above you can see the rubber deform as the shaft gets pressed in. That doesn’t happen if you support the other end of the sleeve. I measured an old inner sleeve. A 3/8” drive...

I mentioned before…. this: Pressing the new bushing in is easy. You just support the LCA so it is square and level using spacers, hollow sections of pipe, whatever you have. Make it safe though. When you apply pressure, the force of the press can spit your spacers out if they aren’t placed...

The Moog bushing was made in India.

That Moog bushing came from an Advance auto parts store. I went to another store… O Riellys doesn’t sell Moog. They sell this now. Same part number. Better looking bushing though. It looks centered anyway.

Finding a lower control arm Bushing is not as easy as it used to be I did find one locally, but…. Take a closer look. Offset lower control arm bushing??? This piece of crap was way off center. Once installed, it might line up but it would probably distort…the thin side would then have a...

This is what I see according to the pictures: The rear tire looks like the whole carcass shifted. It is junk. The front has excessive positive camber. Lower ball joint shafts will bend if the impact is great enough. Sometimes it is the tie rod ends or sleeves that get bent. I've had upper ball...

I'm glad to help. Please understand that what I do here isn't the only way to do this. There may be better methods and I'm willing to take advice from those with more experience. I usually take the control arms to a shop to have them changed out but I wanted to do it all myself from now on. I'll...