Search results for query: *

This is the ballast resistor I got from a NAPA store. The application? 1970 Charger with a 318. Fifteen bucks. Cold, it tests at .7 ohms. I'm told that once it warms up, that number should read .5 ohms. I haven't tested it hot though.

Uhh...... From Halifax Hops...

I have noticed the same thing in my '70 Charger. The engine side harness was replaced 11 years ago. I did the MAD bypass and changed the instrument panel to a Dakota Digital with a voltmeter. Idling with the A/C on, headlights and foot on brake put the voltmeter below 10 volts. I have the stock...

Thank you, Ray. That helps a lot. I'm going to copy and paste this to post in my thread at FBBO.

That is simple to someone that is familiar with electronics. It isn't so simple to someone that has more experience with mechanical things like engine rebuilding, suspension-brake-steering systems, interior restoration and general automotive repair. I appreciate the effort but sometimes...

First off....YES, I did do a search of this. The info that I'm seeking wasn't clearly listed. For years, various vendors offered a factory appearing electronic ignition conversion kit for these cars. It featured a distributor, a 2 pin ballast resistor, a 4 pin ECM and a small wire harness with...

OP has me on IGNORE so maybe someone can relay the following.... I've dealt with this numerous times with my Charger. For years I dealt with months of reliable starting and the occasional crank-crank-crank with no spark. I took the bulkhead plugs off, cleaned them, packed them with dielectric...

You understand sarcasm but humor seems to have slipped by you.

Smart guys will first advise to check all of the negative grounds. The core support, firewall and electronic control module if you have electronic ignition. Next, the fusible link wire just off the bulkhead wiring on the engine side of the firewall. The fusible link burns out when something...

Here is a printout of an electronic kit from Rick Ehrenberg:

How about this one?

Wow. I’m impressed, I expected to get pages of wrong guesses! Thank you. I went out back at 12:20 to get the relay from the truck… Now under better lighting and reading glasses for a better look-see… I now see that grounding plate. I thought that it might have had a spade on it that broke...

Here is a new one that I've never seen before.... It pertains to a 75 Power Wagon of mine but since the electrical systems on cars and trucks are so similar, I figure that it applies here. (I did post this in the Truck forum as well) The truck is a 75 W 200 Power Wagon (1978 Grille) that was...

Couldn't you intercept the ground cable? You could run a 4 gauge cable...It seems that a system without grounding to the battery cannot start.

Henry Ford never said that. To add, the word AND does not belong at the beginning of a sentence....

Only the guys that actually work on their car a lot. FACT. Another FACT. Waaa waa waaaaa. You posted crappy pictures of almost the same angle, didn't answer questions that were asked and now play the victim. Look, man, nobody is paid to help you here. Some do it to help people they will never...

I tried one. It made my tachometer needle bounce around. I only installed it because it had a rev limiter. I have Dakota Digital gauges. Apparently, these two don't co-exist well. I even put a diode in the negative coil wire and it didn't help.

I may have write about it in a notebook here somewhere. I think I disconnected the wires associated with the seat belt system and it was enough to defeat it.

The most obvious differences that I have found relate to the seat belt/Starting system. There is that relay with the reset button that is near the left inner fender, the wiring and master plug inside near the instrument cluster, the seats and sensors in them as well as the seat belts themselves.

I have several used harnesses for A body cars. Engine side, dash side, taillights, dome light.....Send me a PM with what you need.

I'm not doubting you but would you elaborate a bit? Is it more reliable? Cheaper? Easier to retrofit?

I sold a 1965 main bulkhead plug to a member here. I probably sold it too cheap! I looked at the harness of a 66 Dart today. It had 3 snap on plugs like the later cars do. The buss bar design seems like a better system though. It probably had less corrosion buildup compared to the male/female...

I sold a 65 Valiant convertible to a guy and will be helping him get it running. I got it in pieces so I am not all that familiar with how different it is from the 67 and later A bodies...of which I am much more familiar. The buyer is less experienced than me and is looking to me to steer the...

I have had situations where a car with a fully charged battery starts fine with the key but once the battery charge drops off, the only way to start it is to turn the key to RUN and cross the terminals on the relay. In that case, I blame seasoned wiring. The ignition switch wiring connector is a...

1974 was the first and maybe only year of that terrible, Federally mandated bullshit.

Strange report.... I took a clean spare 2 speed motor that I had in the shed and tested it...It worked so I installed it....It made noise but wouldn't move the wiper linkage. It spun when under no load but with the linkage connected, it wouldn't move. The original would start to move but then it...

Really? Millions of Mopars built and equipped with these and nobody has ever replaced a wiper motor?

This one below doesn't show the resistor that the others have. I'm guessing that you're supposed to swap the old one over? 1968-1970 Dodge Charger Windshield Wiper Motor - Front - A1 Cardone 40-350 Review Fitment Notes to Ensure Proper Fit Click to Enlarge (1 Reviews) 5 Stars Our List...