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My vote is also for aftermarket springs. There are shops that can re-arch the originals, but that is a dying art these days. I had a set done 15 years or so back and the heat treating wasn't done correctly. The right rear spring broke at the shackle/bushing point at the rear portion of the...

On my buddy's 72 Duster, we put a 1/4 piece of flat metal under each mount and another between the transmission tail housing and mount. This gave us enough clearance so the headers didn't contact the bars. This may or may not work for you, it's just a suggestion.

Have you checked the motor mounts to make sure they are not completely flattened out? You might try putting a couple of washers between the mounts and the towers to raise the engine just a bit.

Once reassembled, wipe away any excess grease and you should be good to go. I coat the facing of my bushing about every 12-18 months, just for peace of mind. My bushings show no excess wear due to keeping the area clean and servicing them like I do. Mine have been installed for over ten years.

Take the struts loose and put a good coating of grease on the faces of the bushings and reassemble. Your squeak should never come back.

When you say "noisy", what type of noise are you hearing? My adjustable strut bars have never made any type of noise. Maybe crystal ball time. LMAO.

TMM, I didn't want to confuse the OP. That's why I suggested he find someone familiar with Mopar alignment.

Get some straight wheels on it and find an alignment shop that is familiar with Mopars to check and align the front end.

I run QA1 adjustables on my bracket car. I've see through pictures how much difference they make when the front wheels touch down. I have much less front end shimmy by having them on the car.

I've used both QA1 and PST arms, and I had no problem with either of them. The only problem I see with the new equipment, not necessarily QA1 is that some of it "might" be made in China.

Are the torsion bars new? They may have lost their tensile strength if not new. Also check the torsion bar cross member to make sure the welds are in tact.

Pictures, pictures, pictures. We cannot see it from where we are.

The unibody could have been twisted before you took it apart and now it's reared it's ugly head when you are trying to put it back together. Our 50 to 60 old cars have had plenty of use and some abuse in their lifetime, you never know what the PO put the car through.

Do you have sub frame connectors in the car? If not, the car maybe twisted causing the problem.

I think I would be finding another alignment shop, they saw you coming and did shoddy work also.

Not worth my time, "IGNORE".

People who ask questions about something and don't post pictures piss a "lot" of the members off. Just because you can't see the problem doesn't mean that some of us can't see it. We do not have a crystal ball, we can't see it from our house, and the list goes on. If you don't want the expertise...

Adjustable strut bars will help a lot.

Why don't you out the f'ing company so others here and other places don't have the same f'ing problem???????????????

Read post number 4 very carefully and reread it many times. Especially item #3.

Years back, mine was spaced roughly 1" away for street driving with street tires. When I went to the track and ran slicks, there was no gap. My suggestion would be to try different setting to see where your car reacts the best.

Sleeper!!! LMAO

Superior used to make one that you "may" be able to adapt.

Once you get the CalTracs installed, take your time in getting them adjusted. Just a slight turn can get you better or worse traction, keep detailed notes as you adjust them. You will thank yourself later down the line.

I have the adjustables on the Demon, I noticed I didn't get as much wheel flutter when the front end came down. RRR, I know yours is a street application so I can't help your there. My friend with a 72 Duster that he installed them on swears by them.

@Oldmanmopar

Definite improvement, go for it. I put a set on a friends 72 Duster 340 4 speed street car and I have a set on my bracket Demon.

I have a Milton truck gauge in my truck that I've had for 25 years, still works accurately.

Needs to be posted in the "For Sale" section.

Check this item number out on Ebay. 312280413701