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The 4.56 ratio will get tiring after a while, my suggestion would be a 3.55, 3.73 or possibly 3.91 ratio. The 4.56 will have you turning really high RPM's for just a cruiser type car. I've run 3.55 and 3.73 ratios on the street and they are a real kick in the pants.

Depending upon the age of the needles and seats, the Viton tip of the needle may have a slight groove in it. This can cause fuel to seep by and over fill the bowl, my suggestion would be to pick up a pair and change them out.

In my opinion, you will spend much more time and energy trying to change the bearings with the engine "in" the car. Pulling the engine isn't "that" hard and besides, once the engine is out and on a stand it's "much" easier to look it over to see if there are any other problems.

Bite the bullet like I did and buy the 1/2" Medice spacers, that way if you make changes later you have plenty of clearance. My situation was I had my valve covers and intake powder coated and didn't trial fit them before hand. The valve covers wouldn't seal without grinding on the coating...

The link to the push rods is for ball and ball push rods, not cup and ball. You can get custom length push rods if you want to pay that kind of money. Go to B3 engineering and talk to them about push rod geometry.

The Edelbrock parts were a bit too expensive for a kid at that time, the Pro Stock intake was much more affordable at that time. The things we learn with age! LMAO

I bought one of those intakes way back in the mid 70s, it wasn't too bad for what was out there at the time.

I've had many blocks that have been sleeved and never had any problems running north of 10.0 to 1 compression. Some of these blocks were beat like they owed me a fortune and the sleeves never failed.

If you felt the vibration in the shifter handle, I'd start looking in the clutch and throw out bearing area. My stick truck started that squealing all of a sudden and come to find out the throw out bearing took a dump.

Agreed, he may have limited knowledge. I don't think his friends did him any favors and it seems they have limited knowledge also. I don't mean to bash his buddies, but I wonder how their cars perform.

RRR, I couldn't agree more. The only reason I said use the friends to put it back was that only they know what they did. There was only one person other than myself that I trusted to work on my junk. He was my former race car partner and had more Mopar knowledge in his head than I will ever...

You need to get your friends to put it back to as close as possible to where it was before they started. From there, start with the basics by checking the plug gaps, checking the timing at idle and at around 2000 RPMs. Then make only "one" change at a time a see what happens. If the first change...

If you DO NOT have experience using acids and alkalis, DO NOT endanger yourself, loved ones or pets. Use any of the non toxic solutions as suggested above. Acids and alkalis can harm or kill quickly! We used to store chlorine tablets for our pool in a shed attached to the back of the garage. A...

If running the high pressure pump and the by pass valve fails on the oil filter, it causes one heck of a mess. Ask me how I know.

Run the standard or HV pump, not the HP pump.

I had that same cam in a 68 Barracuda 340 4 speed car back in the early 70's. I wasn't a nice street car cam as the RPM range was from 3500-7000. I tried swapping it into an automatic car with a stock converter and it was a pooch on the street. I swapped it back to the 4 speed car and never...

The thing I see is that you are running full synthetic oil. In my experience, full synthetic oil will show you where the oil is going to leak everytime. We ran 10w40 full synthetic oil as an experiment on a newly machined and built engine. It had more leaks than a pasta strainer, we took it back...

Invest in a quality double roller set, soak the chain in oil for an hour or so before installation. I've never run a tensioner, so I can't say yay or nay about them. I've heard they keep the chain more stable but I can't attest to it.

Have you used aerosol carburetor cleaner around the base and throttle shafts to check for a vacuum leak? Have you checked any of the vacuum port caps, if you have some for cracks? Have you changed out the #5 plug wire for a known good plug wire? My suggestions are starting with the basics.

We need a clearer picture of the casting number and there may be a casting date on it also. The price might be a bit salty in my opinion for a cast iron intake that you don't have a true history on.

What year and CID is the block, was it sonic tested before the machine work was done?

I don't see why you cannot run them on a higher lift cam, MP sold a .590 lift solid cam kit with those type lifters in the kit. I run that particular cam for years in a street car with no problems and I beat the car like it owed me money.

I agree with the shaft being oval or possibly cracked. If it were mine I would remove the offending shaft and look it over good, plus check it for roundness.

The above gasket is for a spread bore carburetor.

If the Pertronix unit is an older one, they are almost bullet proof if installed correctly. A friend has one in his 72 Duster and has been running it for about 5 years with no problems once we got the timing sorted.

100% everything above!

Why not partition off an area and put a ductless unit in the wall. That way you would have a comfortable area to work. I did it in what I call my storage area, when it scotching outside I retreat to there and find something to do there.

I would "almost" bet my last dollar alcohol was involved in one way, shape, form or fashion. LMAO

If I remember correctly, some of the DC and MP, and possibly some other after market HP rockers were stamped to clear larger springs.

@belmateo