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I'm in the process of getting parts together for a new 225 motor. 225 block, 225 crank, 198 rods, and 2.2 NON turbo pistons (flat top, not dished). Then I need to do a "mock up" and see what the CR comes out at with no milling of the block or head. PS: The "replacement non turbo pistons"...

Slanty's have timing chains. They actually use the same chain and crank sprocket as the big blocks (cam sprocket is different). The factory cam sprocket had nylon coated teeth. Most aftermarket replacement sprockets were not nylon. The heavy duty slants in some model trucks had double roller...

Time to do some diagnostics. 1st, if the timing marks are on TDC, and the rotor points where it shows in the picture, and the wires are in the cap as the factory installed them (#1 being near the locating tab on the dist) the timing is way off. I would pull the plugs, and move the damper back...

Everyone has manufacturing issues at one time or another. It is how the problems are handled. Several years ago I had problems with champions not lasting in my race car. Within a couple of weeks I would get a misfire, which I couldn't diagnose. I wound up doing back to back testing at the track...

I haven't used a Champion spark plug in over 30 years. Junk then, junk now. Agree on autolite or NGK

Looks like with Ron Heath at Mason-Dixon. Sorry that both have left us.

I have a lot of slant six stuff, but I am near Ocala Florida. If interested send me a message.

Pan is fine. I just have mine back further in the sump area. and above the oil level.

You don't need to tap the block. The pan is fine as long as it is above the oil level. But it should have some room in the pan, below the fitting not just barely above the bottom of the pan. The location you show is just off the bottom.

It would be better if it were located above the oil level in the deep sump area. Not in line with a main bearing.

I hope you can join the series. We need to get some new blood. Most of us are ageing and slowing up. Myself included. I just can't make as many races as I used to.

Who? me or the car? :)

Not really. A 500 2bbl will flow 500 cfm at a pressure drop of 3 inches across the carb. A 500 4bbl will flow 500 fpm at 1.5 inches pressure drop. Since most every one is used to the rating on 4 bbl carbs (at 1.5 pressure drop), if you use the same pressure drop (1.5) on the 2bbl, that carb only...

OK I thought you knew better. PS: I run a 500 cfm holley 2 bbl on my engine, and it works well, but it is used just to get the car from the pits to the starting line. Fogger system does the real work. :)

@Newbomb Turk What size 2 bbl would you recommend? A 500 two bbl would have bigger barrels than the primaries of the 4 bbl, and not be as responsive as a 4 bbl. But the 4 bbl will have less restriction at high rpm/load. PS: A 500 2 bbl has the same flow rating as 375cfm 4 bbl when rated at...

sleeping

I installed a 3 1/2 tone heat pump package unit with aux heat strip, last fall in my rental. Problem in Florida, is if your not a contractor it is a ***** to get a unit or any parts locally. I bought my unit from Lowes On Line. The local store would not sell to me, but on line was fine and they...

Doesn't make any difference in fitting, but the 83 engine has hydraulic valve train, where the 70 engine is solid mechanical valve train. Also the cyl head takes different spark plugs and a different valve cover. The intake manifold might need to be changed as (and I am not sure) the 83 engine...

I raced with/against Ron many times in the slant six series. Super nice guy. I don't remember, but we might have met at his funeral service.

They are out there. Just don't meet your location criteria. I have one, but in Florida.

John Force injured in crash. MSN

A good read. oil-pan-seal

Make sure the outer ring of the damper is not loose from the inner hub. I had one come completely off and run across my toes. It sounded similar to that but was a constant sound. Like holding a piece of metal against a pulley. PS: Most slants do have a slinger, but not all.

I am aware of that. He got one from "group" buy. If I am not incorrect, the original deal was $30,000 for 1 or 10, (engineering, programing, etc) so if the total cost is the same, go for the max. Then sell the excess to recover your cost. Again, my info is not 1st hand, and could be incorrect...

If I remember correctly, Someone (Crower, I think) made a run of special order "billet" slant six cranks, some years ago. My info is second or third hand, but minimum quantity of 10 cranks at $3,000 ea. If anyone has confirmed info, please correct me.

Not in my yard. We need the rain.

Yes, it is possible, but It doesn't have to be. I built my 66 Valiant to prove that point. Had the car at the track (granted not street legal) for a total of about $1500 (including buying the car). 1st weekend out (over 3 days) got the car in the high 13's. Currently have about $3,000 in the...

A slant can be quick, also. My 66 Barracuda with a 170 slant and 3250 lbs went a 12.905 at 101.85 MPH through the mufflers. @Darter6 has seen that car in person. (ran against me at M-D) at time stamp 21.00 All depends what you want.

Looks like there are a couple of people who raced at South Glens falls. Was not in my area, but I raced at South Glens Falls, and North Hudson one time each back in 1964.

What a bunch of "youngsters". I'm 82 and still doing this crap. In the old days started out with a flathead powered Gasser. Then went in the service and missed a couple of years. Then started running low class "stockers". Ford, Chevy, and then Mopar. Around 1976-77 started running brackets. Kind...