Search results for query: *

Blue here as well with zero issues.

Agree on the basic kit, as 727’s are tough in a basically stock V8 car. Then you can spend the saved cash on some sort of treat, like a new steering wheel or whatever.

I have always had to use pliers or channel locks to turn that way. If in the car with wheels off the ground it can be turned with the drive shaft, but it still ain’t easy.

That is because of trying to turn it through backwards gear reduction. Perfectly normal.

If I remember correctly O’reallys carries this Ford stuff, and is what I used. No problems.

Sorry, no personal experience images. I can tell you that from personal experience doing the same job, B&M’s 36 inch race cable is the way to go. The 52 inch cable is flimsier and hard to keep all that length away from heat that melts it. I see you got some of Rusty Rat Rod’s humor. :D

If you get under there with the cable it’s actually pretty obvious how things go. 2 slightly longer pan bolts are a good idea. Spacers go between the cable bracket and the pan so the bracket clears the pan lip. The normal bolts are a bit short for that.

The newer 3.55 from the trucks and Jeeps fit in the OE 8.25 A body rear ends. All it takes is a different carrier bearing size. I have a 3.55 sure grip from a Dakota in my 73-74 8.25 rear end.

The OEM 46RH gaskets work great, and are reusable. Rubber over a steel core. No sealant required.

Notice the C dimensions.

Typically this would be cause for a removal of the trans and re seal, unless it’s just the pan gasket. Most shops won’t do just one leak, because it could come back in a week with another one. “I just paid to have my leak fixed and it’s leaking again” I’m sure you could see that happening...

If you put fluid in the converter you aren’t going to hurt anything. As said, put 3-4 in it and fire away. Then add to full in neutral if you don’t have the updated manual valve in the valve body. The updated valve lets fluid circulate in park, and allows fluid checking. Updated valve or not...

The cluster will come out without dropping the column. You (might) be able to get it out far enough to disconnect the cable, but I doubt it. You might be able to disconnect at the trans first and give more slack, but if I remember you are going to need to tilt the cluster toward you to...

I picked up a 74 up 8.25 out of a Dart and put the Dakota sure grip with 3.55 gears in it. It’s a direct bolt in with different OD bearings for the carrier. Then the Jeep Grand Cherokee disc brakes were a bolt on. I did replace the wheel studs with longer ones because the discs took up about...

If it grinds on all teeth then all teeth have a witness mark. Again, show em. Corners rounded on the block side edge is a crapload different than all tops of the teeth having marks for example. “My starter grinds” is a very general statement.

Aluminum piece is not mandatory. Where are the teeth on the converter rashed? That can tell us a lot. Pictures of the teeth close, and maybe a couple of different angles and in focus.

It is true that you can kill a trans with a lot of miles on it by changing the fluid. New detergents can eat older clutch materials.

Yep, I know all this. I was pointing out the original OP question regarding the 8.25 vs 8.75.

I have Dakota Ubolts on my 8.25 diff in my Dart. They have the flat area. The diff I have is an original 73-74 Mopar 8.25 with Jeep Grand Cherokee gears and sure grip in it with the Cherokee disc brakes. The Mopar 8.25 and the Dakota 8.25 both have 3 inch tubes, as does a 8.75.

I pulled my A500 from a Dakota pickup at the pick a part by myself and they wouldn’t even let me take my floor jack in. (Insurance reasons) I stacked temporary spares up until I could support the loose transmission, and then work it down to the ground gradually. They wouldn’t even help me lift...

It could be just a stuck solenoid, but we all know how that goes. Ah, I think Donny just made my point while I was typing.

You can be sure if you measure from the bell mounting surface of the block to the flex plate bolt surface and have just a little less than your picture measurement. It looks in to me too, but when you put the trans in and make sure you have a small gap between the flex plate and converter as it...

You beat me to it.:D A&A will get the right governor for the application based on the owner preferences. Well worth talking to about it.

When your GV is as high as possible, it seems to me that you want just a bit less than the same opposite at the differential. Lets say you have 4.5 down on the GV, then you want 2-3 degrees up at the diff. Then when under load the diff comes up a little more making the angles about perfect for...

In order to swap tail shafts you have to remove everything in the transmission. Might as well put new stuff back in.

I could see that if it was continued to run that way.

Just so you know Steve, I have seen a lot of converters with witness marks like that and it never adversely affected the converter in any of those cases.

I don’t have a lot of confidence in the trans guy if he thinks the only solution is lengthening the rod. A&A trans makes different governor weights that they recommend when the car owner tells them what the trans is currently doing, but personally I think the PT kick down will handle it just fine.

Haven’t seen that one specifically, but yes that is the idea. It’s an add on to the valve bodies that don’t have it and is really easy to add. I added one when I had the 904 in my Dart and it was night and day difference for kick down.

You might want to grab a pic of the part throttle kd assembly so you know what it looks like, if you don’t already.