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There was good info from a lot of people that know it wasn't a big issue. He didn't ask for the housing to be straightened, not on the vendor. The guy at vendor gets the axle and a work order and goes about his job. That axle will work fine and to say the vendor did bad work, nope. If I was...

I build them as well. Don't look stock/oem. Whatever length you like using high strand 1/0 welding cable.

Us cranky old guys know some things on occasion. LOL It's been a while but I pulled that one out of the noggin. If the OP is close to Detroit, might be worth a jaunt over the border to get a set. Got as soft spot for yellow 340 Swingers.

Being in Canada may preclude some vendors because of shipping. I got springs for my swinger from some place in Michigan, John R Spring Service. 2800 would ride smoother. We used the 2800 on 4 speed drag cars. 3200 gonna be stiff. I don't recall the ride height difference in the two, I...

Yes, it swings up under power

You DO NOT want the pinion and output shaft parallel at rest on a leaf spring car with no traction devices on it.

That's a B/E body set up. You need a biscuit style. Wherever you are buying from has that all kinds of fubared! BTW, that pass side mount is the same as the drivers side.

Cool color combo. Always like the silver/gun metal colors.

340 A bodies got 22" radiators 440 B's got 22" radiators. It's not the size of the radiator, it's most likely the tune up and lack of shroud.

Rusty you crack me up!

The older 3310's had a nice emulsion package in them. Someone got the bright idea to add a couple more holes to every performance carb built. Monkey see, monkey do in the industry, 5emulsions it is, now even more confusion in a metering block that most don't understand. Simple and effective...

Thanks for the purchase, kind words and compliment regarding my product. Anything else I can help with, send a message. @Calipag

Thanks for the compliment. Awesome that the kit did what it is designed to do and solved you wiring issue with your lights. Surprising how much brighter the lights get when they get solid voltage! Appreciate the purchase and recommendation from other members. Word of mouth is the best...

I think I have a complete front rail from a 70-72 car. But I live in California Those caps aren't the best approach IMO.

Vacuum advance benefits in one state, cruise/constant state rpm driving. It's a mileage thing. Lean mixtures are hard to fire, so you have to give it a bunch more lead, enter the vac adv distributor. If you want to run the cruise at 15:1 or higher, by all means, get a vacuum advance...

Drivability is in the tune whether it's a vac or mech secondary carb. If you can't tune one style, you can't tune the other. Mileage, your right foot controls that. Stand on it all the time, mileage suffers. The primaries on the carb don't care how the secondaries open and in both cases your...

Boyd was racing a turbo omni not long ago at MATS

There was a pretty good core group of fast guys that knew each other. If we went to a new location, someone knew the info about who the players were and the fish. It was all good, even with the BS about the cars and bending the truth. I used to chuckle when the bottle got pulled from my...

Drug money changed a lot of the street race code of - You lost, you paid. Sometimes guys would be bitches about, but they knew the word would get out they welched and didn't want that on them. The true jackasses started showing up, lose badly and pull guns, etc. F that. I'm not getting shot...

How is the engine grounded to the chassis? A cable from block to frame rail is really good idea. I like to weld a nut to the frame rail and attach the ground. You could weld a nut to the floorpan if you like. Welded in frame connected cars are much better about ground path to the front.

It's a manual, you can turn the idle speed down too.

Keep your total timing number from going out of bounds. The distributor may have 30*+ of mechanical timing in it if the book says time it at TDC. Nothing should be timed at TDC... BARF You may have to bust into the distributor to limit mechanical. I'd bump it to 8-10, reset carb, see if...

IF you don't have to pass emissions, throw the book numbers in the trash. Even with emissions testing, set it where it runs best, then set it to the trash numbers when you have to test. Not enough initial timing which requires opening the throttle plates too much to maintain idle.

it's OK there. If it's a drag car, you may need more, but that will not play nice on the street driving portion of use.

if trans is at 0, the pinion is pointing 3* down, you have a -3* pinion angle.

Measure off the output shaft of trans and pinion. Compare... That's it. Leveling the car doesn't matter. IMO, leave the car on the ground. When you jack it up on the center section, you may be altering the angle the rear actually sit at in a static state. Put the angle finder where the...

...the tune is like a house. Your foundation, idle set up, is the base all other systems build off of. If it has 12:1 and can start when hot with 20* of timing, large solid cam, sounds like a good start. If you have to floor it to start and it cranks a bunch, the tune is off. Fire with a...

Got it and will send a reply. Thanks for the recommendation.

If it was timed at TDC, if I was your engine I'd be puking my guts out at idle too. :) Stock mopar SB engines tend to like 10-14 BTDC. When you have the timing set near TDC, there is a lot of unburnt fuel headed out into the exhaust port and manifold/headers where it finishes the...

...initial also tends to make off idle response better. Run an old 340 at tdc and then at 10-14 btdc for idle/initial timing. The way the engine runs will be very different. Current tune doesn't sound bad at 20*, experiment with it up and down a couple degrees and see how it starts and reacts.