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I trimmed the lip on my quarters. I think it's only about 1/2" wide now.

Oh, pre heat. Sensor connected directly to the gauge "A" always heats up faster. Not by much, maybe a few seconds.

I installed the new 1" bungs right on the surface of the pipe to get them further out of the exhaust flow, instead of recessing the bung. Innovate says they don't need to be in the flow, so why not keep them protected by being further away. The tip of the sensor is even with the 1" bung, so I...

That's the highest the sensor reads. The engine isn't running in this photo.

I updated my build thread with this information, but I figured I'd put it here as well. Earlier in this thread I mentioned I failed an O2 sensor. Well, the second one didn't last long either. As it turns out, the bungs I used were only 1/2" tall which put the tip of the sensor into the exhaust...

I've really been thinking about trying the Ride Tech spindles for the GM A,B,&X body that accept the corvette hub and brake assembly. Since I already own the hubs and brakes, I would only need the spindles and steering arms. If I were to go with the Ford version, I'd have to get brakes, hubs...

I wanted to provide an update on this alternator modification since I now have about 600ish miles on my G3 swap. The voltage regulatory is working perfectly. Just last week I drove to a cruise night 70 miles from home. This was the longest drive at night since getting the car back on the road...

I think I may have forgotten to mention I changed fuel injectors recently. When I started to have wideband problems, I was questioning if I had an injector problem causing the lean spikes. The injectors in the hemi were the same ones I had in the LA, which were SRT4 injectors. I took them out...

Well, I do have some maintenance to do on my truck before I tow for 1200 miles. As for the car, the biggest thing to do is make an alignment adjustment/check. After that, its just pretty much nut and bolt check, and change the oil in the engine since I'm sure its broken in by now. We have a...

I'm getting anxious! For once I don't feel rushed trying to get the car ready. But still lots of things to check.

Lol! so lean it isn't even running!

I know I've been a little quiet lately. Lots of other things going on besides car stuff. Some may remember I killed an O2 sensor shortly after getting the hemi running. I replaced it and it worked fine for a very short time and that sensor failed. I didn't quite understand why since I had...

There you go! Sometimes all it takes is a little creativity.

I'll throw something out there for everyone to ponder. I'm sure not everyone has been up close and personal with a locomotive engine, so I'll explain. In particular, GE loco engines use huge head studs as you can imagine. They have a tool that stretches the stud and you simply run the nut down...

That will likely require lots of fender modifications. That wheel has 5.5” of “front space”, which is approximately 2” more than what fits in the fenders without cutting anything. It will definitely hit the front edge of the fender and depending on how much caster you run, it will contact the...

Man you need to get these things mounted up. I’m anxious to see how they look. I saw they were running a sale on some sizes of the bronze finish for under $200/ea. if they would have had the sizes I wanted, I would have bought them and had them re-powder coated. Only the 18x9s were on sale.

They are the attack series. The color I have isn’t made anymore. After talking with a Holley guy at Moparty,(Holley owns rocket now) he happened to be the engineer that worked on the wheels. Apparently they had color match problems between batches with the color I had. So they discontinued it.

I can measure it for you. It’s not on the car anymore, so it’s easy to measure. Actually thinking of selling the spindles with hubs and calipers. If I remember correctly, the rotors are just under 14”.

A-body 8-3/4. They are rocket racing wheels. Finding a wheel and tire combo is tough. I’ve found the rear size is much easier to find than the front. If you want a 9” wheel on the front, you will need 6.5” of backspace. They are out there, but then you won’t get the same wheel with the correct...

For those following along that have any interest in pro-touring cars that actually get driven on the autocross or race track, I started a podcast talking to guys that own and drive these types of cars. They aren't all mopars. The first two interviews are Fords, the second two are Mopars. That's...

I run and 18X10 and a 275 tire with the offset front hanger and slider. I autocross regularly and I have zero tire contact. However, I did before changing to the slider. The tire would rube the inside the fender well. I do think I could fit a 10.5 wide wheel and run a 285 without contact...

Glad you are making some progress. There's always that "Ah-Ha" moment when things start to work. You know, the thought of adjusting stoich for modern fuel with ethanol in it never crossed my mind. The problem is you'll never know what ethanol content you have unless you use a flex fuel sensor...

I added a cooler to the return line. It’s a plate and tube style with 10 plates. It’s approximately 12” wide. I did a quick 10 mile ride after I got done, which would had previously made the fluid 200+ degrees. I shot it with the infrared immediately when I got back and it was down to 170. Last...

Reference what I mentioned above that the ECU doesn't know the physical position of the IAC. If you pulled the IAC out and operated it, you probably noticed that once its pulled in all the way, it still steps but it doesn't move. There's some type of clutch in it to prevent damage. So, knowing...

I think the idle valve is always a guess. It's easy to determine which pins are the coils, but the polarity is a shot in the dark. Mine seemed like it was correct initially, but quickly realized it only moved one direction. It's as simply as reversing polarity one of the coils to make it...

Awesome! I know it’s a great feeling when they finally make noise. I guess I forgot I have pull up resistors on my cam and crank signals from when I ran the small block. I have them made into the harness inside the car. 30KPA is normal. Mine idles around 45 and I have an aftermarket cam...

I just installed an early 5.7 in my car. I tore it down and pretty much put the bottom end right back together with all the same parts except the rings. The bearings looked like they had just come out of a box. I did, however, replace the head bolts. They are only $20 per side on rock auto...

The data should just show up when you start cranking

Sorry. Yes I am a pre-eagle, non-vvt 5.7.

Use the "Diagnostics and High Speed Loggers" tab at the top to view the cam and crank signals. These are my settings, which are likely the same as yours if you copied the DIY site. If you used a generic analog input for the oil pressure, you need to figure out what input you used and scale...