JBrian
Well-Known Member
I didn't have any problems with brake components or suspension because I bought everything from Bergman Auto Craft. Just saying...
12:05 Garage- ’70 Duster build
- Thread starter racerjoe
- Start date
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So I don’t have a picture of the rotor by itself on the hub but the Stage 4 rotors are not redrilled at all. They fit tight, so you do have to make sure they seat all the down on the hub, but they don’t need any opening up of the lug holes. With this size picture I’m not sure it will be obvious but in the original and of course in person it’s obvious that nothing is done to the CL500 rotors. The stage 3 rotors on the right are clearly redrilled from 5x4.75”
Not sure who this is directed at, but I haven’t had any issues with brake or suspension components either, everything from Cass at DoctorDiff has fit and worked exactly as advertised.
It’s not like BAC sells parts that are all from the same manufacturer or vehicle.
And that’s by no means a dig on Peter or BAC, I run plenty of parts from him and they’re awesome. But whether you buy everything from BAC, or buy stuff from BAC, DoctorDiff, Summit etc you’re getting parts from different manufacturers.
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bjkadron
Well-Known Member
Yup, Makes sense. I Think they are the best fit of everything else I'm looking for so they are probably the best choice. Worst case re-drilling isn't that hard.
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
DionR
Well-Known Member
I think he is just saying he didn't have to think about all this as BAC did all the legwork for him. Minus machining the hubs to fit his wheels anyways.
I mean, I suppose.
Regardless of which brake kit you run and from whom you have to consider the wheel fit- that’s true for ALL aftermarket brake kits. I had my RPF1’s hub bore machined for the hubs, but that would be the case either way since the hubs have the same diameter with all of the kits mentioned so far (they may even be the same hubs).
I didn’t have to think about where the rotors came from either. I just like to know because if DoctorDiff stops selling a certain kit I want to be able to support pad and rotor changes down the road. I would do the same if I bought a kit from BAC.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I think this is huge. Kits come and go, and if I plan to drive my car I don't want something exotic I have to struggle to replace. Unmodified parts make it so much more likely that I can find what I need if I need new ones.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I know I've been a little quiet lately. Lots of other things going on besides car stuff. Some may remember I killed an O2 sensor shortly after getting the hemi running. I replaced it and it worked fine for a very short time and that sensor failed. I didn't quite understand why since I had thousands of miles of trouble free service out of the same gauge and sensor. The only thing that changed was the bung. I replaced it when I redid the exhaust for the hemi. It turns out the bung I purchased was too short which was putting the sensor too deep into the pipe and I was cooking them. It was a 1/2" long bung. Some research showed me that Innovate Motorsports supplies a 1" bung with their kit. A quick call to them to confirmed my thinking. I had been wanting to upgrade to the dual sensor gauge so this was the right time to do it. Sticking with the same brand also allowed me to reuse the bezel that I painted.
The sensor doesn't even protrude out of the 1" bung. Both sensors are now installed. I still need to go drive it to see how even they are. Installing this did require some additional wiring. The second sensor has its own controller and it sends the data to the gauge via CAN bus. That controller needed power and ground. The second sensor also has 2 analog outputs. I don't have any spare analog inputs on my ECU, otherwise I'd split the fuel tables and have 02 correction for each bank individually. Maybe one day I'll get an I/O extender.
I am interested to see if there are any major differences bank to bank.
The sensor doesn't even protrude out of the 1" bung. Both sensors are now installed. I still need to go drive it to see how even they are. Installing this did require some additional wiring. The second sensor has its own controller and it sends the data to the gauge via CAN bus. That controller needed power and ground. The second sensor also has 2 analog outputs. I don't have any spare analog inputs on my ECU, otherwise I'd split the fuel tables and have 02 correction for each bank individually. Maybe one day I'll get an I/O extender.
I am interested to see if there are any major differences bank to bank.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
I'm no expert, but I think both banks are running a tad lean!
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Lol! so lean it isn't even running!I'm no expert, but I think both banks are running a tad lean!
JBrian
Well-Known Member
A month from today and we'll be on the road to MoParty!!!!!
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I'm getting anxious! For once I don't feel rushed trying to get the car ready. But still lots of things to check.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
that's when you relax thinking there's lots of time and then you still end up rushing at the last minute
neil.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Well, I do have some maintenance to do on my truck before I tow for 1200 miles. As for the car, the biggest thing to do is make an alignment adjustment/check. After that, its just pretty much nut and bolt check, and change the oil in the engine since I'm sure its broken in by now. We have a local autocross the weekend before Moparty. I usually tend to stay away from doing those so close to a planned out of town trip, but I haven't auto crossed since I fixed the power steering, so I think I'll go. That leaves me with 4 days to fix something if it breaks.that's when you relax thinking there's lots of time and then you still end up rushing at the last minute
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I think I may have forgotten to mention I changed fuel injectors recently. When I started to have wideband problems, I was questioning if I had an injector problem causing the lean spikes. The injectors in the hemi were the same ones I had in the LA, which were SRT4 injectors. I took them out and backwashed them with carb cleaner and nothing changed. (this was before I discovered the second failed O2 sensor) The SRT4 injectors don't have the extended tip like the early 5.7, but I rolled with them anyway.
I hated the thought of sending off those injectors for cleaning when they really aren't anything special. I think cleaning is around $20/ea. plus whatever shipping costs. I ended up finding some low mileage 6.4L take outs, which have the extended tip for less than what it would have cost to have those cleaned. Maybe it is placebo, but I feel like it idles much smoother. Could it be the extended tip? Could it be 20 years newer injector technology? Who knows. I'm just happy the engine is happy. The flow rate was around 2lbs/hr different so I did have to do some minor VE table adjustments.
I hated the thought of sending off those injectors for cleaning when they really aren't anything special. I think cleaning is around $20/ea. plus whatever shipping costs. I ended up finding some low mileage 6.4L take outs, which have the extended tip for less than what it would have cost to have those cleaned. Maybe it is placebo, but I feel like it idles much smoother. Could it be the extended tip? Could it be 20 years newer injector technology? Who knows. I'm just happy the engine is happy. The flow rate was around 2lbs/hr different so I did have to do some minor VE table adjustments.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
My last autocross before MoParty is scheduled for this Sunday, September 1st. Now that I adjusted my throttle cable and cut some insulation from under the pedal, my TPI is reading 94% open instead of 74%! So just maybe, I'll be able to keep up with Tim at the dragstrip, but be much more prone to spinning on the autocross. Not the worst problem to have
Mopar_Taxi_Guy
Member
So are you going to be trying out this setup?
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I've really been thinking about trying the Ride Tech spindles for the GM A,B,&X body that accept the corvette hub and brake assembly. Since I already own the hubs and brakes, I would only need the spindles and steering arms. If I were to go with the Ford version, I'd have to get brakes, hubs, rotors, etc.
These look considerable taller than the spindles I have. The only unknowns are the taper for the ball joints, and the KPI angle. They aren't cheap and that's the only thing keeping me from trying them out. The good thing about the HDK is pretty much any spindle can be used since everything is adjustable and pretty much any size ball joint is available in a screw in Chrysler design. The other thing I like about these is the amount of different length steering arms available. Maybe I should just call ride Tech and ask them to sponsor me a set.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I attended my local autocross yesterday. It seems my power steering problems are fixed. This was also my first time with a successful run around the cones with the hemi. My first run was a disaster, likely due to cold tires and me being unfamiliar with the throttle input this thing needs. I originally thought starting in 2nd wasn't going to be possible with the lower torque G3, but I was proved wrong. My first three runs I started in first and it just blazes the tires. My afternoon runs I decided to try the 2nd gear start. I also blazes the tires, but it's more manageable with some throttle control. Overall, I'm happy with the setup. I didn't feel like I had a lack of power at all. I also adjusted my alignment and I think I finally have it dialed into what the car wants. On top of the alignment, I made a new upper bump stop bracket because the factory one is way too far away to be effective.
My current alignment is 7.7 degrees of caster, -2.1 degrees of camber, 1/32 toe out. For the first time since I started to autocross, the car isn't pushing in turns and I can use the throttle to over steer. I feel in control more now than I ever have before. The containment seat helps too!
Unfortunately, the weather for Moparty isn't looking good and all of that weather is coming from where I live. I have been around enough hurricanes to know things aren't very accurate until they actually form, and as of this morning, it wasn't actually formed into an organized storm. I'm in a holding pattern now and will be completely bummed if I end up not going. If it wasn't a 9 hour haul to get there, I wouldn't be second guessing going.
My current alignment is 7.7 degrees of caster, -2.1 degrees of camber, 1/32 toe out. For the first time since I started to autocross, the car isn't pushing in turns and I can use the throttle to over steer. I feel in control more now than I ever have before. The containment seat helps too!
Unfortunately, the weather for Moparty isn't looking good and all of that weather is coming from where I live. I have been around enough hurricanes to know things aren't very accurate until they actually form, and as of this morning, it wasn't actually formed into an organized storm. I'm in a holding pattern now and will be completely bummed if I end up not going. If it wasn't a 9 hour haul to get there, I wouldn't be second guessing going.
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DionR
Well-Known Member
Sucks to hear the weather might be an issue. Rain was a problem last year, right?
Either way, glad to hear the car is improving. Nice job!
Either way, glad to hear the car is improving. Nice job!
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
It rained Saturday afternoon and Sunday last year. Right now it's 50% chance of rain, which is also 50% chance it won't rain. Too many unknowns right now. Also, the current path is literally the road I take up there. It's no fun driving in torrential rain with strong wind gusts towing a trailer for 600 miles.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I'm pretty green at towing. Not that I have never towed anything, just not often at all. But trailer or not, I don't like driving through torrential rain.
What is your drop dead date to decide?
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I have until midnight Wednesday to cancel hotel rooms. Worse case, I wait to load up Thursday morning and just get there late.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
So with this more aggressive alignment, you can't induce understeer if you drive too deep into a corner? If so, is it neutral (All four drift), oversteer (rears drift), or snap oversteer? You have my attention
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