It's hot or miss whenever I search either one.. Searching within a specific group seems to work OK on fb... ie search trx filter housing while in g3 Hemi swap.
12:05 Garage- ’70 Duster build
- Thread starter racerjoe
- Start date
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DionR
Well-Known Member
???
Looks like you quoted a different post than you intended.
Either way, fb still isn’t a place you can just read a thread even if you can find individual posts.
Not sure how I did that lol
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Last year at Cruising the Coast autocross, I had a Moparty friend ride with me and I rode with him in his Demon. His first comment was how much better I would do with a better seat. I always thought my seats were pretty good. After riding in his car that has much more supportive seats, I realized I needed to do something. Not looking to replace the fronts I have permanently, I figured I'd just get a driver seat for race days and just make it a simple drop in. Turns out racing seats aren't necessarily cheap, so I let it the idea go. I've been slowly selling unneeded parts on Marketplace and ran across a guy selling a racing seat in my area for a decent price. So here it is. Maybe I won't need to brace my knees on the console and door anymore.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Nice!
Seems I read somewhere one time that in a Foxbody they have to add bracing to the floor as well. Seems that while a good seat can hold you well, in the Rustang the seat itself moves around a bunch and they lose some of the benefits of the good seat.
Not sure if our cars could have a similar problem, but might be something to think about as you are working this in.
Can't wait to see how you come up with a quick disconnect so you can swap between the 2 seats.
I was teasing a buddy last weekend about this. He has a BB Dart and a '67 Belvedere and only one set of seats. I told him he needed to figure out how to make the seats swappable between the 2 so he doesn't have to spend money on a second interior.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I plan on making it just a drop in replacement. 4 nuts off the bottom and pull it out. I was thinking of making a square with some flatbar to put on the bottom side. Need to look closer to see if its even worth the effort. The outside holes are right next to that "bump" in the floor where bench seats mount. It's a pretty sturdy section of floor.Nice!
Seems I read somewhere one time that in a Foxbody they have to add bracing to the floor as well. Seems that while a good seat can hold you well, in the Rustang the seat itself moves around a bunch and they lose some of the benefits of the good seat.
Not sure if our cars could have a similar problem, but might be something to think about as you are working this in.
Can't wait to see how you come up with a quick disconnect so you can swap between the 2 seats.
I was teasing a buddy last weekend about this. He has a BB Dart and a '67 Belvedere and only one set of seats. I told him he needed to figure out how to make the seats swappable between the 2 so he doesn't have to spend money on a second interior.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
when i replaced the bench seat in my valiant with mercedes leather buckets i stiffened/reinforced the floor with 4" squares of 3mm plate welded to the underside of the floor.
neil.
neil.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
For those following along that have any interest in pro-touring cars that actually get driven on the autocross or race track, I started a podcast talking to guys that own and drive these types of cars. They aren't all mopars. The first two interviews are Fords, the second two are Mopars. That's not really on purpose, its just way it happened. I do have a couple chevy guys in the que. Anyway, you can find the show on any of your favorite podcast platforms. Just search for "Talbot's Turn Fast Podcast" or if you're not into that type of thing, you can listen on your computer here --> Talbots Turn Fast Podcast | talbotsturnfastpodcast
I'll admit my audio isn't great on the first interview. My computer auto switched to the computer mic instead of my external mic. The audio on the second interview is great. Please consider listening, I'd appreciate it. Also share with your friends that may be interested.
I'll admit my audio isn't great on the first interview. My computer auto switched to the computer mic instead of my external mic. The audio on the second interview is great. Please consider listening, I'd appreciate it. Also share with your friends that may be interested.
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
You don't happen to know a rough OD of this setup do you? I doubt it would fit in my 17's but if it did, it would save me a lot of work. On a quick measurement it looks like the ID of my wheels is right about 15".
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I can measure it for you. It’s not on the car anymore, so it’s easy to measure. Actually thinking of selling the spindles with hubs and calipers. If I remember correctly, the rotors are just under 14”.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
I run hubs I purchased from Bergman Auto Craft. They may be the same hubs that DrDiff used to offer. I run GEN III Viper Brembo calipers with the SRT 14.1" rotor. The Enkei PR01 (18x9 +35) wheels would not clear the hubs. I found a small local machine shop that was kind enough to machine down the hubs to clear the wheels. There is no way a 17" wheel will clear the calipers on this setup. You MAY try a 13.3" rotor with a 17". I run a 255/40-18 Michelin that is 26" tall. Hope these pictures help.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Weren't those Challenger Scat Pack rear rotors? Those are 13.78" (350mm).
I think some of the SP and Hellcat guys are able to run 17" wheels over those rotors, so they might fit?
I should add that my front brake setup is 13" Cobra rotors and C5 vette calipers and just barely fit my 17" wheels. No way a bigger rotor would fit a 17" wheel with these calipers. So the calipers you run have a huge impact.
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I am wondering if the 350mm will be too much. kinda thinking it will. I have the same first Gen Viper calipers which are surprisingly compact compared to some of the others I've seen including the Vette ones.
Yeah those are really nice but no way I'm fitting a 14.1" rotor inside 17s.
DionR
Well-Known Member
If you take a picture directly from the side and give me a measurement of something in the picture (hub diameter for example), I could sketch up one of those tests like Baer does. Then @bjkadron could print it to scale and check his wheels with it.
No promises it would be perfect but it would give good idea if it would work.
I know this isn’t exactly the same combination, but I checked the clearance on the DoctorDiff Stage 4 kit (13" rotors, Viper calipers) with my 17" spare from an '07/08 Infiniti G35. It does clear, so, the Stage 4 kit can be used with some 17" wheels. This particular wheel also cleared my stage 3 kit as well. I would definitely not take this to mean the stage 3 and 4 kits will clear ALL 17" wheels, but it certainly does work with some. But again, that’s a 13” rotor not a 14”.
DionR
Well-Known Member
FYI, back when Joe was working on that brake setup, I did a layout to see if a similar setup would fit in my 17" rims. Minimum wheel barrel measurement I got was 15.5".
Note that it was just a preliminary layout, the caliper was just a sketch off an image. So it could be off. And this is worst case, could be that at the narrowest point in the barrel of the wheel the caliper is actually smaller than the above images makes it look.
Note that it was just a preliminary layout, the caliper was just a sketch off an image. So it could be off. And this is worst case, could be that at the narrowest point in the barrel of the wheel the caliper is actually smaller than the above images makes it look.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I know this isn’t exactly the same combination, but I checked the clearance on the DoctorDiff Stage 4 kit (13" rotors, Viper calipers) with my 17" spare from an '07/08 Infiniti G35. It does clear, so, the Stage 4 kit can be used with some 17" wheels. This particular wheel also cleared my stage 3 kit as well. I would definitely not take this to mean the stage 3 and 4 kits will clear ALL 17" wheels, but it certainly does work with some. But again, that’s a 13” rotor not a 14”.
Your pictures don't work! And I really want to see them.
That’s weird, they show up fine for me.Your pictures don't work! And I really want to see them.
How about now?
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
Yup, these work now. Those are the radial mount calipers so the shape is a little different then the first gen.
I have the stock 2004 mustang bullet wheels and with the wheel weights I'm thinking 13" is going to be the maximum. Just figured I'd check because the MB rotors from the 13" viper kit need to be re-drilled. the Challenger ones RacerJoe uses don't.
Really I think 18s are the way to go. For tires, tie rod and balljoint clearance. But I have the 17's and have a lot of other things to do before I get to the 18s.
DionR
Well-Known Member
That looks about as close as my C5 calipers are. Works fine, just don't put any stick on wheel weights in that area. Don't ask me how I know.
DionR
Well-Known Member
That might not be true. Looks like the MB bolt pattern is 5x112 and if the hole is big enough, a 1/2" stud on a 5x4.5/114.3 pattern might just slide in. The rotor I looked up showed a 0.6"/15.3mm diameter stud hole and a quick AutoCAD layout says it should just fit.
This is correct. I have the MB CL500 rotors as part of the Stage 4 kit, they fit without any redrilling. I spoke to Cass about that because I like to know what the options are for replacements.
The 13” MB rotor is nicer in that respect than the 13” C4 rotor used with the stage 3 kit, because that rotor has to be redrilled to work (Cass orders blank C4 rotors and has them drilled). The CL500 rotor for the stage 4 kit can be bought off the shelf from anywhere and works out of the box.
Either way the 18’s have much better clearance
DionR
Well-Known Member
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
This is news for me. Is Cass Dr Diff? I could have sworn I asked him about them and he said the ones he supplies are re-drilled. if they fit off the shelf then I think that is probably the best option because they have the smaller Diameter and the thicker width.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Yes, Cass is Dr. Diff. Not saying he doesn't redrill them, I wouldn't be surprised that people complain if they have to carefully slip them on. And tolerances might be that 4 out of 5 fit and one doesn't and by redrilling them he doesn't run the risk of someone posting bad comments on the internet. Could be he just hits them with a 5/8" bit to make sure they are opened up enough, too. Not sure. And Blu said he talked to Cass and that they aren't redrilled, so there is that too.
I'm just saying if the specs match reality, they should be very close to slipping right on. I would buy one locally and try it. If it doesn't work, returns are easy.
Hmm...something else I just thought of. If the knurl on the stud sticks out past the hub face, it could cause the rotor not to seat. I was only looking at the stud itself.
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