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For all out, one of the newer aluminum castings. The best between the OEM castings? Shaft mounted rockers or stud mounted. Shaft is more stable. Closed or open chambers? Pretty sure there are available pistons that can help the open chamber. In the end, I wouldn’t sink a dime into a cast iron...

Do you have someone to video it?

So, without changing how hard you launch and it spinning instantly. I like more tire. I would just watch for more body separation and or a change in how the front tops out.

Spinning right at the hit or the tire sets and then spins after a rotation or two? I’d be curious to see a video of how it spins.

I ran a blanket, work out the shift linkage and no other issues. Didn’t run warm etc. I truly believe they would do better in an explosion than the Kevlar/carbon shield. This really equates to body armor. The only “hard” item in body armor is ceramic plates (other than steel). So the best...

Rockin’s axle position within the car has not changed. So static pinion angle will be the same. During launch, I would expect the angle to increase if it in fact does separate more.

So, the % of rise is a number used to illustrate how hard the rear axle separates from the car on launch. Higher % number the harder the rear axle is thrown down into the track and separates from the car. You need to know three points of reference to determine the %. Changing the location of...

Pretty sure that is correct, the taller tire will change your % of rise. The car should separate more.

I have to say a TI rocker stud nut was like your weren’t holding anything in your hand. Very nice bolts. Any fastener you don’t routinely remove……

More.

Have a couple of friends there.

Did you source what you need? I have some, would need to sort through what.

Yeah, leak down test. The change in #7 with oil is a red flag for rings. I think you are going to find a glazed bore. Did you fit the rings or check the ring end gaps?

I think that is a bunch, if they line bored the block. That brings the cam and cranks center lines closer together. I like IWIS chains. It would bug me, but it is a stock rebuild.

Start it in neutral, it will fill the converter. Park will not fill the converter.

Like stated above no. Who’s crank?

Your rings are seated, they are pretty much seated by the time you have assembled/installed/adjusted the valves etc just by turning it over by hand. Unless you have a gas ported piston and even then, they are probably seated. You can wash the cylinder walls and glaze them after you get it...

The plug almost looks too cold, you want a bit more threads on the shell showing heat. The sheen on the plug is either fuel or oil.

Verrrrrrrrry rich. What was the lean issue? The timing mark on the ground strap is an indication of heat interpreted in relation to timing. It could lie to you until you get your AFR in line.

You could be collapsing or pumping up a lifter.

You can play with the secondary air bleeds. I would take a strand of copper from some wire. Slide it in the secondary air bleed hole and bend the top over. I would put a small piece of aluminum tape to hold it in place. Less bleed air more fuel, give it a try. It is easy to reverse.

The problem with just up jetting the secondaries is it takes time to get the raw fuel moving through the boosters. I just remembered, you can pull the secondary boosters and see what the bottom of the emulsion tube looks like. Some are fully open ended and some are very closed off. Also...

Also it is a MSD box, the light might not be happy with the box. Really not sure what state the balancer is in either. Did the distributor come with a set of plastic “keys” to set the mechanical advance? You insert them in a window in the advance plate and adjust it so the key just fits. You can...

I ran one, it broke and the flat spring tried to eat its way through the timing cover. Never again, the chain must be tight and I like rollmaster, they are an IWIS chain.

Not apples to apples, but the repro bias ply redlines consider being round as just a suggestion. Every time I have to remount them, I have to have them road force balanced. Match high spot on tire with low spot on steel wheel.

First you need to know if it is stumbling rich or lean. If you don’t know, you don’t know to add or subtract weight from the counter balance. You can try adding front jet, it will make the cruise rich, but it is only a test to see if it helps the opening. If it does, you are probably lean on...

I would throw a 1/4” phenolic spacer under the carb and definitely a fan shroud.

Those rollers are NOT going to like bouncing on the ramp. I would go thicker oil, bandaid? Yep. Other option, get bearing clearances right/find your pressure bleed.

does it move in reverse? If the strut came out it would still move, just the sprag would take all the power, no? Assuming it is a low band apply vb.

If the car tops out the nose smoothly without upsetting the car. Your ride height is currently OK? When you start hitting it harder it might top out too quickly and upset it. If you can’t slow it down with the shock, lowering ride height might help. Delaying the topping out, but it should be...