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Couple of interior pics

The engine is a 2006 6.1 Hemi that I built to 4.065x4.05 bore stroke with all Manley components so it is now 420cid and 6.9L ish. It has CNC'd 6.1 heads with Manley valves, springs, locks and retainers. Comp custom grind cam .600/255/247/114, Manley pushrods and stock lifters. ARP head bolts...

1972 Dodge Dart Swinger Built stroked 6.1 Hemi, Goldbox EFI Viper 6spd, dual disc, pistol grip Strange S-60 4.10 gears, 35 spline Big Ford bearing hybrid ends 14" SRT front rotors/ Viper calipers, 11.75" 2 piece rear rotors and Wilwood sliders in back Factory welded K frame,Borgeson steering...

I mounted my Gold Box here: But the plug ins are at the top.

I thought the 2005 Truck manual pcm was THE one to use on a pre-VVT engine?

I know, luckily mine didnt need adjusted.

Me and a few others are using the heavy duty Transpo regulators, and they are adjustable although mine is right on 14.2V out the box. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/142081547121?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Wheelbase differences is in rear floorpans, back seat footwell.

Lifter tick that goes away with rpm doesnt bother me. Tick from a collapsed lifter is there ALL the time. 6.1 lifters are used in most hipo builds on Gen III's. Have you tried thicker oil like 15W50 Mobil 1?

Im afraid if you change them, it will still be there. Maybe verifying pushrod length first before you pull the heads.

If you had to cut the shaft, you could've just cut the manual shaft?

How bad do they tick? Mine tick a little at cruise after a flogging, but dont tick at start up and idle.

I would just get a kit for a 5.7. Some have sonic tested the blocks and went to a 4" bore but even staying at 3.97 is big enough. A 4.05 crank will get you a 392, a 3.79 gets you in the 366 neighborhood. Cubic inches with a turbo only makes you need a bigger turbo.

Get a car engine with as low of miles as possible, a 6.1 preferably. Yes Yes Stock K unless you have money to burn

No they are discontinued American Racing Shelby Redlines. These have the right backspacing but you cant get them anymore.

What brand are those wheels? They look like a remake of mine.

Any pics of the uncut installs and the driveshaft to tunnel clearance? I run a 3.5" diameter aluminum driveshaft.

Love the great resto that understates the beast that lies within.

Making your own mounts, especially the passenger side, affords you to not have to use any oil filter block off or angled adapter. Wouldnt it be nice to just put the filter in its stock location?

Go for it.

It sucks the headlight....

Mine sucks.....

Not $2300 exactly EFISource Gold Box and harness= $1295 92mm cable TB=$370 Wideband O2 w/indash digital readout=$250 80lb/hr Siemens injectors=$250 DW300 pump=$130 Fuelab reg and gauge=$130 Magnafuel 10 micron lifetime filter=$80 Tanks Inc hanger for intank pump=$80 Homemade surge tank with trap...

Leaving the cost of the engine build out, $800 headers, $2000 EFI and laptop, $40 radiator hoses and probably $350 in fuel system. But its at least that much to EFI anything so go figure.

If it was cheap and easy there would be a bunch of Bowtards doing it. I made my own mounts because I can. If you already have a SB that saves money because you only need a different flywheel or flexplate.

Yes it can but his installed tune was a little to aggressive in the timing dept for my combo so I had to change those tables quite a bit. My engine is 7.0L too, 420 cid. My cam is nasty 247/255 @ .050 and has very little vacuum below 1100rpm. You set your AFR targets from idle to 7000rpm and the...

Yes, and thank you.

I have the Gold Box and it is solid, only problems I've had have been my own learning curve with understanding IAC vs my big cam. Everything above idle and cold start has been flawless.

Heads will swap fine but the later heads need later valve covers.