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It has K/SA on the C pillar.

If I'm not mistaken, 78 was the first year, maybe 77. My 79 Volare slant didn't have the plug tubes, so it started before 79 for certain.

Good luck with that. I am unaware of anyone that makes conversion mounts for what you want. It would be so much simpler to swap to the slant six K frame. Is there any particular reason you want to keep the V-8 K frame?

That happened to me once on a road trip. I just slid the broken part of the tube onto the dipstick and would just put the dipstick with tube into the hole to check oil. I stuffed a rag and stubby screwdriver into the block hole after pulling the dipstick/tube out. I kept the broken piece of...

For Mopar, Deluxe Slant Six Distributor Drive Gear Installation Kit - 1960-1987 | eBay Got the whole installation kit, Under $20.

Princess Valiant, your mailbox is full.

I am sorry for the delay guys, I ran out of the 3/8 bolts. Everything is shipping this weekend. PM me here if this is causing and grief.

The timing covers will physically fit between all the different years and sizes of the slant sixes. The thing to watch out for is the timing tab. It is in different places for different years, some are welded on to the cover, some bolt on.

The bolts are 3/8-16.

OK, I finally found the pics I had of the Magnum hose on a slant six.

I actually have a pic of that hose on a slant, but I am having trouble locating it. I have a 2007 Magnum and happened to notice that it might work on a slant with a radiator outled on the driver side. You may need to use a tie wrap or two just to keep clearance for the belts.

The lower radiator hose for a 2007 Dodge Magnum 5.7 L looks like it would work well for something like this. I have some pictures somewhere. I'll post when I find them.

Thanks for the kind words, my wife and I have been battling some health issues, but things are looking up. I ran out of the oil pump gaskets but I am having more made and should be back in stock soon. Now, back to the regularly scheduled post.

I am pretty sure it is the same as the big block Mopar engines. I don't recall whether the small blocks used a washer as they have that fuel pump eccentric bolted to the front of the cam (and wouldn't really need a washer.

Personally, I would notch the fan blades for clearance. It would be fairly easy and have a negligible effect on the air flow.

Here are some pics of the tube/pan junction. The tab on this particular tube was bolted to the engine mount.

FYI, the trucks have a dipstick tube that goes into the oil pan itself. The good news is that after unbolting the tube supports, the tube will pull right out of the pan. You will not need to remove the oil pan. If I recall, there is a tab bolted to the motor mount that secures the tube in place.

Here are the numbers in case you dint wanna watch the video. N/A: 230 peak HP and 287 FP torque 6(?) pounds boost: 325 HP and 400 FP torque 11 pounds boost: 402 HP and 517 FP torque

It is much easier with the hood out of the way. I have pulled many engines by myself. Keep the link between the hoist and the engine as short as practical. Start lifting. If the hood gets in the way, that's when you remove the front bolt from each side of the hood (where it bolts to the...

I have had success by removing only the front hinge/hood bolt on each side. This allows the hood to "open" further while leaving it 'mostly' in place. This may help: 225 Engine Specs WIDTH Outside Valve Cover to Prod. Exhaust Manifolds 17.3" LENGTH Bellhousing Face to: Front of Block 27.7"...

IIRK, early Dakotas used 8 1/4 rears, and they are fairly plentiful in salvage yards.

FYI, that is a 3/4-16 bolt roughly 2 1/4 inch in length. Takes a 1 1/4 inch socket.

The 'bolt and stud' setup is a proven method of limiting cam walk on the slant six. However, not everyone has access to welding or the items needed for the ‘bolt and stud’ method. This button is an easier way to accomplish the same thing. With the cam bolt properly tightened, there should be no...

The oil pressure relief valve could be stuck. You should take it apart and clean it.

That is one wicked Slant. Sure would like to know more about it.

Here: Slant Six Lift Plate

Of the two bolt holes on the head between the manifolds and the valve cover, the front hole will balance the engine by itself. The rear hole will balance the engine/transmission combo. I designed a steel bracket that takes advantage of this, it isn't exactly low profile, but it makes hooking...

I just used a die grinder and various stones, sanding drums, and such to grind away. I opened mine up to just over 2 1/4 inch diameter, but I could have easily gone to 2 1/2 on the manifold I did.

The cam bolt is 7/16-14 x 1.25" and the washer is 1.5"dia, 1/8" thick and slightly concaved. I just measured these items from an 84 slant six.

How did it go at Waynesboro?