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I have run across that revelation in my research. Considering the tranny fluid is cooked that may be what happened.

If it comes down to it, that will come in VERY handy. Thanks!

Hi all, I'm in a pickle. Last Wednesday the transmission in my Ram retired itself. Towed her home and was relieved to remember that I have Toyota 4 runner that, although is on her last legs, was still running. I recently parked her after a valve stem seal gave up the ghost, so she could let go...

I agree, there just doesn't seem to be a large community here. Wish there were more.

Started with a static parts washer tub from Harbor Freight. Added the drum and associated supplies for a total of about $150.

I have known John for about 8 years now. The guy legitimately is at the genius level, not just in the mopar world but truly that intelligent. For $600 your mopar chassis will be as stiff as it can possibly be: http://store.uscartool.com/a-body-chassis-stiffening-kit.html

If you'd be willing to drag her down to Alexandria, I'd love to dig into it. I'm not a professional mechanic but have built a mopar or 3 in my time.

I used to rent a 1 1/2 car garage in Brooklyn Park. It was $300/month and had air conditioning and an alarm system. I am down in Alexandria and didn't have any garage space at the time, so it was well worth the drive. I can probably find the lady's contact info if your interested.

I joined there first due to my Road Runner, but since I bought my Scamp I do most of my online time here.

Agreed, I am mostly a B Body guy, so I'm not tremendously active here. But I am just finishing (if finished is actually achievable) a '73 Scamp build that I am bringing along. Id love to meet some of you guys.

Ok, finally getting around to it posting the story... /6 904 auto 7 1/4 open diff Not an extremely desirable car, so no guilt over modifying it. 100% there Basic grocery getter that hadn't gotten groceries going on gobs of time. Picked her up for $300 about 5 years ago. This was the day...

Krazykuda is right. The monroes are good oem replacements. I like a stiffer ride so the KYBs are good balance between performance and comfort for me. For Springs, you can't go wrong with the mopar performance offerings. You just need to decide if you want stiff performance or soft cruising comfort.

Probably not the best method, but the first time I ever messed with them (also didn't know squat at the time) I saturated a rag with P'Blaster and took off as much loose rust as I could. I then used strips of 400 grit sand paper on them using strokes like you would polishing your shoes. Kept my...

P.S Surface rust on the torsion bars shouldn't be a problem, flaky rust and I would scrap them. Look for scratches too. A lot of people over the years have removed them without the proper tool, i.e. clamp the vise grips on them and bang away with a hammer. Scratches are a torsion bars worst enemy.

We all have to go through the learning curve. You'll quickly discover that the guys in the group will never dog you for not knowing things. We're here to help. Badsport nailed it. Run fast, run hard and never go there again. The only reason you would have to adjust your torsion bars is that...

There don't seem to be any words to use the search function that don't return 20,000 results regarding "loads of fun" "I give up" "Which engine should I build" etc. So if the answer is already posted I apologize. I don't have a specific problem right now but in the past I have had engines...

Thanks guys! It's good to hear the bad along with the good. Since it's a brand new engine I'm gonna run my orange box til I'm sure all the bugs are out, plus finish building the car and I think I'll give it a try at that point.

Did you ever decide to try the Rev N Nator? I just heard of it a couple days ago and I am considering it myself. Same concern, removing the vacuum advance. Magnante wrote a pretty favorable piece about it, though: http://www.moparmax.com/columns/magnante/viii_10-1.html

Have I mentioned I hate electrical problems? I tried a jumper from the Battery+ terminal to the coil+ terminal. Started right up and stalled after 4 or 5 minutes. So I took off the jumper and checked the voltage at the coil. I am getting 11.6v on the coil+ terminal with the key in "run"...

The distributor/ECU I bought from Summit came with a single ballast resistor but the harness was connectorized for a dual. Since the manual showed a dual I bought a dual one and went from there.

67Dart273 - NO spark from the coil after it stalls, Once I have an arc from the coil wire I plug it back into the distributor it fires right up. There is just no rhyme or reason as to why I suddenly get spark again. You may be on to something. I just pulled the ECU connector. The ECU is 4...

inertia - New tank, new sending unit, cleaned the existing lines with brake cleaner and air pressure (was about a week after that installed the new tank) new filter, getting 7 psi after the filter. New carb for that matter :-) The bowls are full regardless of how long the engine runs or if its...

Sat for 5 years while I've had it, probably at least 5 more before that. I started to remove it and got to the point of pulling the shaft out of the column, don't have the puller. I figured before I cobble something together to use as a puller I figured I'd raise the flag of help on any other...

Its a 73 Scamp, '73 motor. The ignition system is ECU, OEM kit from Summit. But that reminds me that I did steal the ecu from that kit for my road runner and ordered another one. But due to shipping delays I got the replacement from ebay. The very last trouble shooting I attempted was to check...

I'm in need of help. I have a fresh 360 build in my Scamp. I have a problem with the engine stalling out. At first it appeared to be heat related and I treated it for vapor lock. But then it started to do it cold and finally got to the point where it wouldn't even start. I discovered 2 spark...

I did reroute from the mechanical pump under the alternator over to the inner fender and straight to the carb. I had planned on picking up some insulation tonight, but I don't have high expextations. Having zero improvement so far, I'm guessing it's boiling in the bowls. Couple more questions...

I have used those on my 383 before, I'm actually just going looking for a spacer right now. I do have a dual plane intake, so you are right, that is one more consideration.

Thanks guys! I had always thought the plywood was a better thermal barrier but according to this site ( http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html ) I found they are essentially the same. Have also found some very intriguing alleged fixes elsewhere such as: A metal...

Wooohooo. Now we're debating. Being an old hardwood flooring guy, it's just a no brainer to make a wood spacer. Plus I already have marine grade polyureathane (think Bar Top) for the cut edges. I also am a little leary of the sealing capabilities of phenolic as evidenced by all the Thermoquads I...

Recently finished my 360build. Edelbrock intake and carb, therefore susceptible to heat soak and she vapor locks quite easily. What resolution do you guys think is better, plywood or phenolic spacer?