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I don't have power steering but I am running a stock LA alternator bracket with a spacer and some stacked washers and haven't had any issues. The main thing is just getting the pulleys to line up well enough. I tried many combinations of pulleys before finding something that worked. I can take a...

Around 500 is the max. Stock springs are really soft. Like soft enough to be able to compress with your hand. The hughes kit (which I have on my motor) gets you more clearance and stiffer springs that are well suited to a mild to moderate cam.

You also have to remove the stud for the starter to be able to slide the dust shield down.

The bottom is supposed to have another little cover. Though it is often missing.

I had to cut parts off the top to make mine clear my magnum flexplate. Watch out as clearances can be tight

Can’t hurt. Though I wouldn’t worry about it too much depending on how much you drive and in what conditions.

Holley double pumper. Look up the number on the choke horn for more details.

You just have to mess with it until it wiggles in at the right angle. Just be patient. (when you do the other side there's no way you can recreate it)

Neutral converter, stock weighted flex plate with one filed hole. Do not use anything for LA360. Not convertor nor plate.

Sounds about right, mine were just crumbling when I tore down my 5.9

They don't

Presses into the k frame where the rod goes through. They are shitty, I would advise against them in favor of the two piece.

I used hastings moly rings. Make sure to double check the rings you get are 1.5/1.5/4mm, because I have found the summit system doesn’t recognize the 360 mag rings as different from LA. Used cheap king bearings. No problems. I’ll report back in 100,000 miles.

...of life, picking a small cam was something to appreciate. I then retroactively slapped myself for wanting a duggada duggada cam. Either way, running enough timing at idle and cruise is essential. With 214* at 50 and 110LSA, my motor sounds stock with 12 base and the can pulling in 20 at idle.

I would run manifold vacuum advance. It’ll smooth out the idle and drop the temp.

I’ve run that setup port-missmatch-be-damned and had zero problems. The factory ran that mismatch on the 318 four barrel cars. No need to do anything but bolt it on and have fun. The improvement over a 2bbl intake is major.

For a carbureted light duty engine I wouldn’t worry. They seem to have problems most on lean running engines that are heavily used. When I was sourcing magnum heads, I found that most of those motors have trashed exhaust valve seats. Now they are “hardened,” but they (like those from the 70s)...

Why not a stock cam? Seems like a solid choice if road tripping is the goal. And they’re everywhere

I have noticed though that on my air gap the temp directly below the carb remains significantly cooler than the rest of the engine due to the cooling effect of the fuel vaporization. A non-air gap will completely cancel this out.

Runs smooth as high as I have the courage to go. That orange box is of unknown origins but appears to be good after all.

Update: The coil was leaking oil, causing it to overheat after a while. Replaced and have had no further issues. Also playing around with ported vs. manifold vac advance and have gone with manifold for the long run. Gets me a smoother idle and around 10 degrees cooler sitting in traffic.

maybe the pushrod length is wrong?

Anything will fry some bfgs when you stomp on it :lol:

5.9 mag. Ehh. Driving at 80 mph just feathering the gas is nice, but around town it kinda sucks. Going to 3.23s soon.

I was in a similar situation with my car, with melting and crumbling connectors. Replaced with new harnesses and also added an additional charge wire to share the load with the bulkhead. Wiring stays cool to the touch all the time.

First, loosen the nut. Then put a box wrench on the head of the bolt, manipulate, and then tighten the nut. With the car on the ground this can be hard. I have found that lifting it a little, manipulating, and the dropping it back down to measure works okay. Much easier with the car up off the...

The key locates the eccentric to the piece of metal that centers it. Has nothing to do with the key on the cam

I used on a snout extension on my magnum to avoid having to use an electric fuel pump. It seemed like a great option. When I got it, I realized it was an idiotic design. The eccentric is not located by any sort of key, it is just held in place by the tension of the cam bolt. What makes this...

I haven't been able to find the clips for sale but if it comes down to it, getting some clips at the local yard is free, though it sucks to do.

I lost a wire clip too while cleaning magnum lifters. Replaced it will a big block chevy (iirc) clip. Worked fine.